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Remodeling Flooring Basements

How to Level a Concrete Basement Floor

6 years ago

We are replacing carpet with Adura Max LVT in a basement. The basement floor is concrete and we have found that it is not level. There are both high and low areas on the basement floor with approximately 3/4 inch variations. We would like to bring the floor to level within 3/16 of an inch (based on the requirements of the product). The floor is 800 to 900 sq. ft. in three rooms plus a bathroom. All rooms require some leveling. We would like to understand what options there are to accomplish this as inexpensively as possible.

Because this is a site specific question, even guidance on the type of professional to search for in our area would be appreciated.

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Comments (4)

Waynette Bailey
6 years ago
Same problem here.
millworkman
6 years ago
Self leveling cement.
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I had a similar problem (actually the same but opposite...had to dig to bedrock because my 99% silt soil has no bearing capacity, and ended up with my basement being too deep, and had to raise it back up with gravel). I did call in a structural and geo engineer (looks after large projects in my city for things like building malls on soupy clay soils), and he determined all the granular fill, compaction and footing sizes based on that. We also, had the soil not been so rocky, had the option of installing piles as a base to help stabilize the foundation. So yes, by and large it can be done, but I would agree with the others and say you really should consult someone with a great deal of knowledge on this. (especially if like me, you wind up with the process halted by the BI when they're not familiar with the soil structure your dealing with...and your engineer is the only person who can stamp off on the structural integrity and get the process moving again...)
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Don't know if this will work for you, but I saw a "this old house' clip and this is sort of what they said. They first nailed down furring strips, leveled to the finished height. Then you pour the leveler between the strips, and then when that dries you remove the furring and fill it in. I would use a float to make it even since the capillary action can make it want to rise higher than the edges. One caution (from me, not them) - make sure there are no gaps under the strips or the leveler will flow under and it will be a big mess. After writing this, and come to think of it, I'd just nail down furring at the edges (making a form), and pour the stuff in there. Make sure you know what the low spot is, and adjust accordingly. If there are any gaps under the furring, seal with duct tape first. Good luck.
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geoffrey_b
6 years ago
For that large an area: There are companies that will pump SLC (self leveling) cement and level the entire floor.
SJ McCarthy
6 years ago
Sorry but that is a rather large height variation over a large square footage. The concrete will have to be roughed up (possibly shot or sand blasted to give it some "tooth"). Then it has to be cleaned and primed (with a primer that will work with the Self Leveling Compound (SLC). And that primer MUST MATCH the moisture levels existing in the slab (that means the professional MUST test FOR MOISTURE).

Once the floor is ready for the SLC (properly ordered because some SLC does NOT like to get any thicker than 3/4" and others do not like to go THINNER than 1/8"....fun right?) the professional will mix massive amounts (as geoffrey_b points out this could arrive in a big mixer that has a hose that snakes through a window or a basement door). Then it must be allowed to cure. The 'rule of thumb' for concrete (not all, but it gives you a sense of 'timing' for your project) is 1 day for every millimeter (1/32") of concrete poured. If they pour ONLY 3/4" (doesn't happen, but let's play the game) then you need to know that 3/4" = 18mm. That means you are looking at 18 days of cure time before the floor can be laid (almost 3 weeks).

The cool thing about SLC is it is NOT self leveling. Yep. Total misnomer there. As for 'inexpensive as possible'....it is really a matter of perspective. In the industry, a job like this can go as high as $5/sf. That means "inexpensive" is $3/sf.

Concrete specialists can be called upon to do this. If there are moisture concerns (like a slab that is from the 1980's or earlier) then you can bring in a moisture remediation company that specializes in "damp" basements. They will have ALL the tools and ALL the expertise to deal with a large job like this.

This is normally well beyond the skill set of "Joe the flooring guy" (or Jill the flooring girl to be PC).

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