What scheme does this remote use, optical, RF, acoustic? I would disable the remote, disable* the sensor that receives its signal, and see what happens. But my guess from this sparse information is that the unit is not well shielded from noise on the electrical lines. Some filtering of the feed power would be called for in that case. (Not something you would design yourself unless your doctorate is in electrical engineering.) However, suitable and economical devices are probably out there. Also, if electrical noise is the culprit, one has to wonder at your wiring, and whether the house-wide grounding/bonding approach is functional. * block or disconnect if you can get to it

For more than you might want to know about range hoods, tour this forum's posts for the last few years. Use Goggle with "site:ths.gargenweb.com" in the search along with hood, baffles, mesh, MUA, etc. Also read the papers linked to at My Clippings. These actions will require some commitment of time. Briefly, the rising thermal plume from the pots and pans carrying the cooking effluent of water vapor and grease and odor expands as it rises. The hood has to overlap this expanding mix. How large the hood aperture has to be to overlap this expanding effluent is a matter of how perfectly one wants to capture it, how high the hood is over the stove, what one is cooking, at what temperature, and whether there are cross drafts. A 3-inch overlap is not unreasonable for the standard mounting height of 30 inches. The blower size has to keep the velocity of the air sufficient at the baffles or mesh for effluent "captured" by the hood aperture to become "contained" effluent, and thus exhausted. It is determined by the aperture size and other parameters, and cannot be skimped on by arguing that only one burner at a time is used. We don't get the option of changing the aperture size to only account for one burner. Another factor in blower size is how gagged it will be by the system design and make-up air (MUA) restrictions. You only get 1200 cfm by hanging that fan in free air. Otherwise, it will flow less. My conservative view is that for common setups at the high speed fan setting, the fan may only flow 2/3 of the rated zero static pressure fan cfm. Second, my view is that the velocity of the air entering the hood aperture should roughly be 90 ft/min. In this case, the rated fan cfm has to equal 90 times the area of the hood aperture in square feet times 1.5 for pressure loss. Other rules may be evaluated for their results, but I would start with Greenheck's paper (see my clippings) to investigate that subject. My libertarian view is that you should do whatever you want. My progressive view is that you should only cook outside using solar power until Soylent Green is available. MUA may be expensive if you want to air condition it, or heat it, or filter it, or some combination of those actions. For a simple MUA duct with motor-controlled damper, no filtering, the cost is probably only hundreds of dollars, counting labor for duct installation. Often, it is more time consuming to figure out "where in the world can I put that duct and introduce the air into the house or kitchen?" than doing the install. However, more complex systems can certainly drain the pocketbook. Examples of more complex MUA systems can be found at Greenheck.com. kas

clinresga: Thanks for all the info and good things to think about. I am glad to hear that you like the Fantech silencer. Our attic should easily be able to accomodate its size. Do you know if they reduce the effective CFM of the blower? (I hope to get off another project today and start calling various companies to figure out what we need). We will be using a custom surround - truly custom in the sense that our contractor/finisher will make it for us in any fashion we want. We haven't yet settled on a specific design, but it will be made of wood, painted the wall color and we'll probably try to make it "disappear" as much as possible. Ha! Given the nature of this project (restoring a 1920's remote fishing resort - off the grid and way in the middle of nowhere), we are working with a contractor who does beautiful work and can pretty much make anything out of any material. (You should see the cabinets he's made that look like they've always been there, the rock fireplace surround he built that is a deadringer for the 1924 one that came off in the 1970s, etc. He is a true artisan.) So for the range hood, we are constrained by the location of the refrigerator on the one side, and the size/depth of the range. I believe we will have a maximum of 43-44" for the surround (the stove is 40" wide and sits about 32" off the wall). It sounds like MA might be my first call if they can make a custom liner that is the right width and extra deep. We did hear back from the stove restorer, and the burners have a total of 72K BTUs (12K each) and the ovens have a total of 40K BTUs (20K each). I still think the FDK10 will work for us if we get to that level of pinching pennies, but we'll have to run the numbers to see! In another post, I saw you mention that you have a wall control for the blower and lights. Did that come with the MA? Or is it manufactured by another company? Are the blower and light controls on the same unit?

I have your same problem but have no option to enlarge the vent duct due to the size of the space between the wall and ceiling studs. My previous vent hood was a 36" Cavaliere 900 cfm for a 36" Dacor Epicure cooktop. My new range is 36" DCS with 6 burners. Because I wanted a more substantial look, and after much searching and debating, I bought an AirPro 860 cfm (link below) The Cavaliere hood was more than what I needed for the 36" Dacor. I never turned it up past 1 or 2 while cooking. On 6, the highest speed, it was kinda loud but since I never used it on high it wasn't a problem. The AirPro has not been installed yet so I don't know what the actual noise level will be but it's rated at 35 / 0.7 to 67 / 6.5 (Lowest to Highest Speed). I just couldn't see paying thousands of dollars for a vent hood especially since my $400 Cavaliere had worked fine for 5 years. During my hood research one of the retailers did tell me there was a vent outlet adapter available online but because our contractor wasn't thrilled with that idea, I stayed with the 6" hood duct. Hope this helps. Good luck in your search for the right hood. Here is a link that might be useful: AirPro Hood