Try to "trace" the kill wire from where it connects to the coil, to its next "connecting point". This may lead you to the throttle linkage area near the carburetor, or to a terminal on the ignition switch. It might "branch off" from either of those locations and continue to a seat switch or a clutch/brake pedal switch. The idea behind your search is to try and identify all the places where the "KILL WIRE" circuit travels to, and connects. Any single switch that is connected to the kill wire circuit is capable of "switching to ground" and thereby "killing the spark, and the engine. If you can identify all switches that can ground the kill wire, you then have to determine whether a specific switch is defective or simply out of adjustment. Click the link below and study the Briggs IPL for your engine. Go to page 8 of the IPL. First, find item # 222, this is the throttle cable attachment point and also incorporates the OEM Briggs "stop switch". Inspect this switch carefully to determine if it has lost the isulator components that could cause this switch to "short to ground". Find item # 356, 356A, and 356B. This is the OEM Briggs kill wire (stop wire). Notice that 356B is a "two wire" configuration. YOUR engine will only feature one of the 3 configurations of stop wire. 356B is an example of what I meant about the kill circuit "branching off" to other locations. Now, you will have to trace the circuitry to determine how many things (switches) are employed on your particular machine. Keep in mind, SOME seat switches (OPSS) have a "shorting plug" or connector that connects to the switch terminals. These "shorting connectors" cannot simply be "unplugged" from the switch to check or defeat. The shorting function of these connectors will deploy when the connector is removed from the switch and that will ground the kill circuit the same as if the seat was "vacant". Here is a link that might be useful: 422707 link

Thanks for your replies! These aren't things "I" have to have... most of these came from a thread from about 3 years ago and I wanted to eliminate things that are unnecessary or overkill which I know is quite a few. Allison, I apologize for the length. I, many times, have opened loooong posts and quickly returned to the main page. Thanks for coming back. ;) David - I should have removed Cat 7 from the list. Electrician already told me he uses Cat 5. You're right they were copied, that's why they don't make sense. As far as expense, if I pre-wire for many of these will that cut down a lot on the price initially? I should have added that in my first post. This is a whole house remodel and addition, and unfortunately we won't have a garage anymore, just a storage area, so the outlet for the extra refrigerator will be in the laundry room. I'm deleting extras now. I thought the 4 light switches were a bit much myself. Thanks for your help.

Assuming a 20k pool and plumbing similar to mine, here is a comparison of three pumps: (I added a 3/4 HP two speed as well). First at full speed: Whisperflo 3/4 HP: 6,186 watt-hours per turnover @ 78 GPM Whisperflo 1.5 HP: 7,677 watt-hours per turnover @ 92 GPM Intelliflo (3115 RPM): 7,333 watt-hours per turnover @ 92 GPM Next at low speed: Whisperflo 3/4 HP: 2,680 watt-hours per turnover @ 39 GPM Whisperflo 1.5 HP: 3,086 watt-hours per turnover @ 46 GPM Intelliflo (950 RPM): 1,561 watt-hours per turnover @ 28 GPM (12 hour turnover) The next step is to figure out how many turnovers you will have per year on average, speed used and how much you pay per watt-hour. Then you can figure out when the Intelliflo will pay for itself.

Thanks for the new comments! As I mentioned before I am working on being able to post a much more detailed floorplan. Thanks for hanging in there with me! jejvtr- Thanks for your detailed observations! Some great thoughts. To answer your Qs: Existing fireplace is not appealing - it's old and ugly. Hard to see from floorplan, but the hood doesn't impinge on the masonry fireplace - it's actually in front of one of two existing pantry closets that flank the existing fireplace (this room was originally a tiny den). This wall gave us a lot of headaches - considered a wall of pantry closets surrounding a fireplace with the kitchen on other side of room, but this was a much less functional use of space and would also have been $$$$. I really appreciate the comments about issues involved in covering over the FP - will definitely ask ALL of those Qs. Range - A range is not my first choice - I prefer two full sized ovens, and not to have to bend down, but I'd consider, if it would really help matters (they do look great). Base cabinets - definitely want drawers for pots and pans - they are just not shown yet. Pantry - an extension of one of the existing ones. Re: adding a cabinet to the right of the sink - I can make that happen by reducing the size of that window. Only issue is that the pane size won't then match what is in the rest of the back of the house, but that doesn't bother me - it also gives a natural ending place for backsplash. No room for a wrap around hutch there, unfortunately. Thanks very much for taking the time to look at this with me! mjlb- Thank you -loved the drawing! I am especially excited about the idea of bringing down that corner cabinet to the counter - I think that would, indeed, give some balance to the run. I think you are also on to something as far as switching the position of the fridge - it's not that much farther away from the window sink and becomes easier to access for others. If I end up putting a primary sink in that island, it's like having two zones and remains very close. I like the concept of open shelves there, too. Verry interesting. To answer your other Qs: As mentioned, we can reduce that window and make room for a cabinet to the right of sink. I thought of a single post lamp fixture. Only Q is whether it would provide adequate light for the current 9' island. I have given some thought to the idea of two smaller islands, too. However, I'm also thinking of moving the sink to the middle of that island and making it a primary sink, in which case I'd need pullouts for trash, a dishwasher etc. But I would consider. Main entry near pantry is from the front of the house and the foyer/main hallway The room "below" the built in desk is the existing (already decorated) living room. Your point that the old part of the kitchen seems vacant is well taken. I felt that it was even worse when we tried to design a plan that was flipped the other way, though. Bigger is not always easier to design -unfortunately walls are not always able to go in the right places! I like your idea to try to break up the uninterrupted built in cabinets against the wall look. - a separate hutch, rounded edges, a desk designed to look like a desk, rather than a built in , etc. I think that with this comment you really got to the heart of one of the major things bothering me about the space. Thanks again for all your help! segbrown- Thanks for your suggestion! I especially like the idea of ending the island where the ceiling height changes. I will look into this. Maybe there is some creative way to incorporate the island with that in mind. I do think there is an issue with turning the island 90 degrees in that it can't be too long before impinging on the breakfast room space. Thanks so much!