I think the biggest reasons you don't find many example kitchens with QS white oak or rift sawn white oak, are 1) very few cabinet companies offer it, not that many even offer white oak at all. 2) Since its not generally available, most people don't even know that it is an option. I think it can be quite beautiful. I went with quarter-sawn red oak ordered from Scherr's custom cabinets. I'm pretty sure that they also make cabinets from white oak. (I believe they also charge more for white oak.) Here are some pics of my red oak quarter sawn cabinets.

@eliseharrison The caption in your first says something about being treated with "oil," which is another option for finishing, using Waterlox or another tung-oil based treatment rather than lacquer. An oil treatment that has tung oil as its base like Waterlox won't yellow as much as an oil treatment that has linseed oil as a primary ingredient. These oil finishes have to be re-applied and maintained, but I've done a fair amount of research on them, and Waterlox original finish is what we're planning to do in our kitchen on cherry cabinetry. A few cabinet companies use oil finishes like Waterlox exclusively. It creates a very natural surface, but the ambering and yellowing will still occur over time to an extent even with this method. If you wanted to go with a whitewashed finish, then yes, that might work for you to get the color you want, but it won't look natural. It obscures the depth and sheen of the natural wood if it is done sufficiently to alter the color permanently to obscure the natural ambering of the wood. Some people really like this method and have used it to get the light neutral color they want without going for a total painted finish. Just be sure to view samples in person so you're sure you like it. There is a type of white oak harvested in Europe that has a low tannin content and ages to a neutral, silvery tone, but it is expensive and difficult to obtain in the United States in quantities large enough for cabinetry work. If the budget is generous, you could look into that option with a water-based, non-yellowing lacquer finish to get a natural white wood look.

Reach out to Oak and Broad. They produce the very product you are looking for. How to purchase will be the tricky bit. What type of in-floor radiant heat are you using? What's the subfloor? Floating, glue down? What type of climate do you live in? What about your home's HUMIDITY control? In-floor radiant heat can be quite drying to wood that is sitting RIGHT ON TOP. That means you will HAVE TO HAVE a humidity control system that adds and/or subtracts humidity at the touch of a button. This will have to be in place before the wood reaches the install site. Good luck. These will be very expensive floors but will be well worth the effort.

bry911, I watched that same video last night. I was amazed that his third experiment was successful and gave me hope. At the end of last year when I questioned the finishing guy, he said he is going to hand-sand to remove the top-coat. And I doubt he/they will try to educate themselves. So I am going to put something in writing and send it to the owner to sign-off that if the finisher sands through the veneer, is not able to do an adequate job of color blending, or causes any other irreparable damage that all the doors be replaced with matching wood. Perhaps that will make him pay attention. They did do a good job for the most part. The biggest errors have resulted from the owner trying to take shortcuts and rush the installers. When the fridge panels had to be repaired (but were replaced instead), the installer told the owner that he needed to replace the large pop-up door above the fridge at the same time. But the owner didn't want to do that. That door is such a different color than the other two batches of wood. If it had been replaced then it wouldn't stand out visually. And then the finishing guy wouldn't have applied the whitewash trying to mask the differences. But, 20/20 hindsight and all that. Here are a couple of other pics to show the whole design. The doors above the cooktop have the Blum Aventos Lift Up System with Servo-Drive. And the niche in the island has floating quartz that is supported with hidden, inset support brackets. I did a lot of research to find out if that was a possibility and then found a custom stone installation company that had done something similar before. They were more than willing to take on that aspect of the project.