Need help with beadboard height on end wall
greenhaven
9 years ago
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Lisa
9 years agoGenB
9 years agoRelated Discussions
Bead-board bathroom - any ideas?
Comments (9)Thanks for the feedback and ideas. The varnish idea is intriguing; I think I've seen similar applications and they end up looking very shiny and not a match for the paint. This is not so terrible, but would be a bit of a different look. Are there any varnish-type products which would have a more neutral finish? Also do you think I'd need to varnish the ceiling as well to protect from condensation, or only on the walls which would be receiving direct 'splashes'? We are leaning towards keeping the tub, and retrofitting it with a shower. The idea of a hand-held European-style shower is very appealing; we're wondering if maybe a ceiling-mounted curtain ring would be sufficient to prevent splashes if the shower hardware were somehow mounted inside the curtain, maybe from a bar mounted to the ceiling? We did something similar to a clawfoot tub in our previous house - link added to show what that may look like. It would be a tricky install since the curtain ring would probably need to be mounted at the same angle as the slope of the ceiling. We would probably just leave the current tub faucet set in place and add another faucet set that operates just the shower. There's not really an economical way to create space for a separate shower, changing the footprint of the room is off-the-table for us at this point. Here is a link that might be useful: clawfoot shower system...See MoreHas anyone restored old beadboard walls? HELP
Comments (13)Well, you can feast your eyes on my attic; I'm thinking you might be facing something similar. I stared at these boards, which were/are painted dirty white, for nearly 20 years before I figured out what to do. Or rather, how to decide what to do. I have two rooms upstairs. One is done in narrow boards with tons of end-to-end joints hanging in the middle of nowhere, and it's bumpy and uneven and ugly as sin. There was nothing for it but to cover it up, which I've done with panelling on one wall, and in another part of the room with wallpaper. I've also started panelling the ceiling with 1/8" maple plywood but don't have a photo of that yet. My husband is not a fan of the wallpapered part, but it works for me. I plastered (oh yes I did) all the cracks, smoothed the wall as much as I could, and papered over it. Half the room so far. For the rest, I've discovered an underpaper that may spare me the plastering. First two photos here of the original look and the panelling. Pardon the mess; after 20 years there are no empty rooms, and the house is so messy I have trouble getting presentable photos! The other room, shown in the third photo, had wider boards, not so many joints, and was installed better, flatter. That, I decided I could paint. It is shown here partly done (and with only one coat on one wall); again, pardon the stuff. Yes, this is how I work my way around the room. I am nearly done the room now, and really liking it painted, much better than I expected. I REALLY hated it when it was white with the dark floor. Am also doing a hallway, in a creamsicle orange colour, and that is looking pretty good too. So one question is, is the installation of your boards nice enough to paint? I have to admit I don't recommend the papering (sounds like that's been tried!). I used a satin finish paint; the old paint was flat, and yuck. If the boards are just bad, then consider removal or covering with panelling. Or with gyproc. An unexpected pain in these rooms is the corners. How do the walls meet? Mine have huge uneven gaps and need corner moulding. It used to have a quarter round, which I hated and have replaced with a square 1x1. I also had holes that were cut in - to get into to the attic shoulder walls - and have had to devise covers for these. Another question you might want to consider is fire safety. It should be noted that gyproc will give you a bit more time than wood, I think. Ours is a small simple house and egress is comparatively straightforward. If yours is more complicated, and if grandkids are involved, you might want a better fire-rated wall material, and that would argue for removal and gyproc. I am not a fan of multiple layers on walls - had trouble even doing the 1/8 inch ply. Maybe we just have so little space I hate to lose even an inch, plus there is spacing out the moulding, and it's messy to get through. So if you are going to do drywall, I would tend toward removal of the beadboard. You could preserve it and use it instead as wainscot, perhaps. Or as fencing. Or as moulding. Or give it away. But wow, unpainted old beadboard? I bet it's nice wood if you refinish it, but I'm not sure I'd feel obligated to keep it on the walls as it is, holes and all. Wood can actually be used around a tub; it's more resilient with water than you'd think. Karin L...See MoreNeed your thoughts on beadboard/wainscoting
Comments (15)oceanna, thanks for those words of encouragement. As you know, as others who frequent this board know, I've been messing around with different colors, etc. for over a year. Taking my time, still not making any concrete decisions on paint. Then wham, today I learn I need to have my colors chosen within the next 7 or so days!! This happened so quickly because we decided to contract out the floating and painting since it's so much work. My poor DH is just about to drop. This will free him up for the more detailed things like moldings and other things. I have picked out my master bedroom color. It is a SW color called Misty. I had BM mix it up and it was right on. I couldn't find the touch of the mix on the SW sample. So I guess that's as good a match as one can get. LOL It's a silver blue and one I couldn't find in any BM blue. The master bath is Gray Cashmere, a gray green that is the same hue as the blue. My most difficult decision of course is finding that right cream for the great room/kitchen. I think I may have found it in Rich Cream by BM, but not certain. Still have a zillion more colors I want to sample. I wish I wasn't such a fanatic when it comes to wall color. I'm making myself crazy. When this is over I'll be so very happy!!! Then it will be all downhill as far as I'm concerned. I think picking the wall colors is by far the most stressful. With all the samples of paint I'm not using in the new house, all I can say is this house I'm living in now will have some very unique wall colors when it's up for sale. HA! The samples are all in the same color family and the same type of paint so I think I'll be able to put a lot of it to good use. Those $10 quarts at BM add up in a hurry, let me tell you!! I'm trying to be frugal, but my desire for that perfect cream keeps me going back again and again. LOL...See Moreheight of beadboard in bathroom
Comments (5)Personal preference, really; if you absolutely must have a hard number, try 48" or 54" but it's just as likely that neither will fit your room just right. :-) There are a lot of things you can use as a reference point for the cap rail topping the wainscot (to be obnoxious and persnickety, it's only a "chair rail" when it is in a living area and placed at a height to keep a chair from banging the wall): a windowsill, the top of the toilet, the top of a vanity backsplash, a medicine cabinet frame or window frame (1/3 of the way up a window frame or medicine cabinet frame is a very classic relationship), above or below wall outlets/switches. Tape a string up around the wall at different heights to get an idea of which one works for you. Consider, also, how your baseboard is going to work - if you are going to put the beadboard on top of a baseboard, behind it sitting on the floor, behind it but raised above the floor (use scraps of beadboard to fill the dead space behind the baseboard). This will affect your finished height. Sheer practicality and avoidance of waste is a pretty important thing to consider too, so if you can use a half or a third of a plank/sheet instead of, say, three-fifths (leaving two-fifths to waste, unless you have a use for it elsewhere), that's better. It is often more cost-effective to get the full size planks/sheets and cut them than to buy the smaller "wainscot size" ones. In my previous house's master bath, I went for 2/3 of the way up the walls, allowing us to use half-lengths of the 8' long beadboard planks to minimize waste: 48" tall beadboard on top of 5.5" baseboard (seam disguised with an inexpensive trim piece called a "base cap") and topped with 1.5" cap rail = 55"; exactly 2/3 would have been 60" but the beautiful wallpaper border that went above the wainscot brought the total up to just the tiniest tad under 61". I had originally wanted to use 1/3 up the window frame for the cap rail's reference line but the beadboard planks would have had to be about 54", which would have doubled the amount I would have needed to purchase!...See MoreGenB
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