Window between counter and upper cabinents
Alex House
11 years ago
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11 years agolast modified: 9 years agosameboat
11 years agolast modified: 9 years agoRelated Discussions
No upper cabs, have to put plugmold just above counter
Comments (8)It sounds like it will be very visible in this location, so you want something looking good, right? Most of the plug mold doesn't look very good - very functional/industrial. Aluminum plug mold looks a bit better, but still not great, and whether it is suitable for you will be your call. The Angled Power Strip (see link below) might be better for you because it is much better looking than any of the other stuff, and it has the angle built in. It comes in a couple of colors of anodized aluminum - a dark one and a brushed aluminum that will match pretty well with stainless. But the stuff is very pricy. BUT you had first better check the code in your location. Especially around a sink you may not be allowed to have this, and angling it may make it worse - allowing water to drip in. May be fine, but better safe than sorry. And no - I don't have any affiliation with this stuff. I just saw it and liked it a lot. Here is a link that might be useful: Angle Power Strip...See Moreshort uppers over a counter. love them or hate them?
Comments (35)fori: it's kind of an unusual small house. Who'da thunk one wall could bork a whole YEARS WORTH OF PLANNING? taggie and taggie: Ok, see my open floor plan below. red x's are unchangeable. blue walls are exterior and unchangeable. blue diamonds are the traffic patterns through the house. ginny: yup. maybe a re-think (dear Lord please) is in order. It's almost happy hour, you want two right away or a token? Artichokey: DH didn't make an executive decision, he thought it would be good to have it more open which was originally what I wanted but at that time a year+ ago he didn't think it would work structurally,etc. He said he'd like to be able to sit at a counter somewhere so we could be together and not separated by walls. I don't necessarily want the wall. Or not want the wall. I'm trying to make the great layout that I had WITH the wall now work WITHOUT it and maybe these guys are right and I should try to go back to the drawing board. Uuhhhhh. My DH is very sweet most of the time and if I'm happy with the kitchen he'll be happy. And of course I want him happy and hey, if he wants to be able to sit by his old wife and talk to her when she's cooking, how couldn't I want to indulge that. ;) My challenges in this kitchen: 3 entries that can't change. Main entry to the house goes through the kitchen. What worked in the other layout was: having my prep/cooking space out of the traffic flow. I hate trying to cook with people under my feet. Although, to be honest, that usually only happens maybe 10 times a year at the most. I also am sick of trucking back and forth across real estate and I was liking my little 'cockpit' U area. I had a good amount of storage and space for my coveted all fridge and freezer drawers. Should I post this here or start a whole new thread? This post was edited by deedles on Sat, Feb 9, 13 at 17:15...See More16" space between counter and upper cabs too short?
Comments (25)We had 15" in our old kitchen and I hated it, but it really depends on how you're using the space. In our kitchen, it was the primary work space so I was always hitting the cabinets, and the stand mixer kept gouging the underside of the cabinet when I'd forget to pull it out all the way before flipping it back. But if, in contrast, you're using the space to house a microwave or toaster oven or what-have-you--16" will be fine (and better to have the storage space there). Don't forget that you can put three shelves in a 34" cabinet, too, though. We have three in a 32" cabinet and love it--every shelf doesn't need to have a full 12" of clearance. I can reach all of our shelves (intentionally designed that way) and we keep cans/jars on the lowest shelf since they don't need height. How tall are your ceilings? If you post that with a floor plan, I'm sure you will get lots of feedback and ideas on how to plan the cabinetry! If you're doing custom cabinetry, I wouldn't feel hemmed in by standards sizes and distances--one of the benefits is that you can mix it up and do what works best for your space....See MoreBank of counter top windows at sink - how to handle code electrical?
Comments (12)Most pop up receptacles will not meet code for the required receptacle for several reasons. Most are only listed for temporary use. The only one I have found that is listed for such use is not in production the last I heard. In any case, ANY receptacle device installed IN countertops MUST be "LISTED for the application" That means that an independent government approved testing laboratory has tested the device to ensure certain standards have been met for outlets designed to go IN countertops, and that the installation instructions show the proper requirements for installing it in the countertop to meet the standards. This includes that the device's 'faceplate' seals well enough when closed to keep water out of the junction box, not a characteristic that a "wall" receptacle would normally poses. 210.52(C) (5) Receptacle Outlet Location. Receptacle outlets shall be located ON or ABOVE, but not more than 500 mm (20 in.) above, the countertop. Receptacle outlet assemblies LISTED for the application shall be permitted to be installed IN countertops. Receptacle outlets rendered not readily accessible by appliances fastened in place, appliance garages, sinks, or rangetops as covered in 210.52(C)(1), Exception, or appliances occupying dedicated space shall not be considered as these required outlets. Informational Note: See 406.5(E) for requirements for installation of receptacles in countertops. 406.5 (E) Receptacles in Countertops and Similar Work Surfaces in Dwelling Units. Receptacles shall not be installed in a face-up position in countertops or similar work surfaces....See Moremjtx2
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