need advice on how to decorate a 1930's Craftsman style house
Annie1983
10 years ago
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jterrilynn
10 years agoPipdog
10 years agoRelated Discussions
How to do the Upper Cabinets -1930s Kitchen
Comments (14)Maureen, If I'm reading your drawing correctly, you only have four feet from the window edge to the end of the counter on the left side of the sink. If you put in a corner upper cabinet and have it come all the way down to the counter, that will only leave you with 2 feet on the left for your working space. I think a useful exercise for you now, will be to list ALL the baking ingredients/supplies/appliances/bowls/etc that you want to store there. I have created a small baking area in my kitchen using drawers- it is such a pleasure opening a nice big drawer and having everything right there! I have a LS in the corner to hold appliances. We were going to have cupboards down to the counter, but there was a mistake with our order, they didn't arrive, and after living with it for a year now, we think it was serindipity- as we love having the extra counter space. Appliance garages are not easy retro-fits, and you have to make sure that your appliance WILL fit in there- our toaster oven would not have. I think a 3 drawer base, minimum 21 inches wide would be great for baking- then ask your kitchen guy if a LS would still fit in there (I don't think so). So you may need to look at a blind corner unit. A corner upper could hold mixing bowls, spices, etc. What I like about the corner upper, is that it brings those items closer to the front, so it's great for big items you can reach and pull out from the front, or items on a lazy susan that can be rotated to the front. I don't think you have to have matching shelving on both sides of the sink, (you don't have it now), I like the charming quirkiness of it. I would also avoid the temptation of bringing down the cupboards on the right. Once you add that extra counter space, you won't believe how much you will use that corner. You will be able to have two cooks working in there at once....See MoreDining Table for 1930s home?
Comments (58)I keep coming back to this thread and thinking about it because I am inheriting an old Queen Anne style dining room table and chair set from my mom. She got it around 1972. It's Harden, which is a middle of the road company. I never liked it, but it went with the style of our old 1890's house and mom's taste. It's solid cherry wood, which you will not see the likes of nowdays. The top is gorgeous, because mom always used a tablecloth and table mat on it. First I thought to sell it and buy something more to my taste, like Mission or Arts and Crafts, Art Deco, Danish Modern . . . but it's such good quality and free, so I'm learning to like it. I don't like its darkness, but that can be adjusted by using a tablecloth, runner and placemats or chargers. Many ways to change the look of the dining room that way, which is what you will get with a classic piece. Also the chairs can be recovered (they are actually lime green velvet if you can believe it, thank you MCM influence!) or I can even invest in complete, washable slipcovers for them if I want. My friends had a DF repro table (probably from the 30's or 40's) that they got from someone who died and donated the contents of his house to a nonprofit where they worked. They used it for so many years as the family dining table, game table, homework station and craft center. When they finally splurged for something new and Mission style because the old one was just too rickety and couldn't be fixed, their daughter pitched a fit she loved that table so much. It now resides in the basement where it still serves a laundry folding, crafting function. My point is, something well made and classic can be worked with in so many ways! It will be fun to see what you come up with! As you may be aware, the used market is now overrun with boomer downsizing stuff that gen X'ers and millennials don't want, (yuck, antiques lol!) so you can get just about anything you would want for a dining room, including the table accoutrements, for a song. I say "lol" because back in the ACTUAL mid century, my mom picked up many of the "antiques" in our home for a song back then too, for the same reason, minimalist was in and antiques were out, particularly large things, and we had a big house with 12 foot ceilings so she literally paid pennies on the dollar for certain pieces. Friends from the "big city" would visit and marvel at what she paid for the stuff at auction. I vividly remember going to some VERY out of the way places to auctions with her....See Moreinternal insulation damp 1930s house in belgium
Comments (12)That was an incredible article! And describes exactly what my problem is. Thank you. I mentioned that there had been panelling or wainscoting. This was is one of the smaller rooms. Unfortunately it had been covered with materials that blocked any vapour movement. And it was also riddled with woodworm, so it had to go. The wood supports nailed into the bricks were fine at higher levels, but had rotted closer to the ground - capillary action with ground water which I can do nothing about. Even if I removed my current floor and waterproofed it, the fact that I have neighbours sharing both inside walls means that their water will just come over any barriers. And replacing the floor is also (currently) out of my budget. So far, the lime plaster I have has softened and crumbled in the areas where damp has come through because of the uncovered and currently unused chimney, near the single glazed and rotten windows and near the broken guttering. Only a small area has been affected by the groundwater. I might not need to replace all plastering. Where the wainscoting has been taken doen, there is bare brick. But replacing this wainscoting would be a great idea, especially if I can then plaster and paint with a breathable colour on top. It also means I can hide gas and water pipes behind them. I suppose the last layer lasted for 80 years, although the woodworm had a party for most of that time. Perhaps there are non-wood breathable materials I could use? Wood would be an expensive option for the square footage. And how clever would it be to add a layer of cellulose or sheepswool under this? Or an insulation material which can deal with damp? However, internal humidity will be a lot higher soon, due to the replacement of windows (they have trickle vents, but a trickle is nothing compared to the air movement I have now!), new and insulated roof, blocking the chimney opening with a gasfire flue and replacement of gaps in the mortar. That's my fear - that even by having a house that lets moisture in and out, it's still pretty airtight and keeps the inside too humid. And a complete ventilation system is quite expensive over here, although I'll have a unit placed in the bathroom. With the latest European EPC standards, my refusal to have damp proof chemicals, thick impermeable insulation and artificial ventilation means the value of my house suffers. But they can change what they want when I'm in a retirement home! Maybe the regulations will have accepted that most of their recommendations for older houses are incorrect unless they are knocked down and rebuilt which would be a real pity. Thanks for that article. Absolutely brilliant! So next question: is wooden wainscoting the only breathable option? Are there other products out there, both modern or traditional looking, that would work as wainscoting panels? And would I be adding to the problem by sticking a layer of hygroscopic insulation between it (might mean the dog barks less loudly!). And apart from leaving the windows open in summer and winter for 20 minutes a day (prefer to save the heat in the winter), what other ways might I increase ventilation/reduce condensation into the brickwork without burning a hole in my pocket? Thanks AGAIN!!! Photo shows the remnants of original wainscoting supports and brick underneath. Sarah....See MoreWhat style is this 1930s Southern California brick house?
Comments (12)KLawrence: Agreed! The selling realtor had assumed it was brick over timber, but nope! Solid masonry and slab foundation on grade. Very solid. It's a curiosity and not much in keeping with the Craftsman and bungalow styles that dominate the neighborhood. The lot was divided by the original owner and we have two of these little brick boxes side by side. Worthy: Thanks, especially for the tip about the lintel paint color. I'm planning to have the bricks cleaned, repointed, and sealed soon and have some repairs and conservation done to the chimney. It's nice to hear it looks good. Hoovb: Thank you, interesting suggestions about the landscaping. I'm in the midst of a separate project to replace most of the landscaping with edibles, which is why you can see a pomegranate and four citrus there. The palm/cycad does indeed provide some useful privacy, but as you can see in the second photo maintains a nice view on the oblique. The updates I'm planning are to add shade (for both comfort and efficiency, as the house has an open south and west exposure that gets much too hot) and to even the walkway and stairs. You can see in the second photo that each of the three steps of the entry are a different height. I'm considering a new stoop in a similar style to the existing or perhaps a raised deck of some kind. I'm considering a pergola or shade of some kind either over each window or along the roofline across the entire facade. Lots of options (too many!) and I hope to enhance the nature of the house rather than compete with it. These kinds of changes will have a huge effect, so I tread cautiously....See Moreanele_gw
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