Hopefully this will help future readers looking for answers. The post by Buehl is all over the conditions of needing support as recommended by the MIA (Marble Institute of America). This is for "Single-Level" counters with cantilever overhang: For 3cm stone: any overhang over 10" will need additional support; spaced every 36" or less. For 2cm stone: any overhang over 6" will need additional support; spaced every 24" or less. For "single-level", the goal is to support the cantilever. We do this with CONCEALED SUPPORT. Single-level concealed supports use the mass of the supported material to "reach out" and support the un-supported material. "Raised Bar" support is of a completely different breed. Unlike "single-level" support, "raised bar" supports support the whole darn top. (Gosh, I need to write an article explaining all of this stuff!) There is a rule called the "2/3rds Rule" which says that in dealing with overhang, that 1/3rds overhang much be supported by 2/3rds of the width of the overhang. (Example: a 36" wide counter should have 24"(2/3rds) of support (cabinetry) with 12"(1/3rds) overhang.) Raised bars blow this rule out of the water so we have to look at it differently. ALL RAISED BAR COUNTERS NEED SUPPORT! We use "SB" support to support raised bar overhang up to 12" and "SBS" supports to support anything over 12" and up to 18" overhang. We Do Not recommend overhang over 18" on either "single-level" or "raised bar" counters. Let me address Rodding. The process of grooving the bottom of the material and epoxying in steel rod is an acceptable practice in suring up weak areas of material (such as in front of and behind sink or cooktop cut-outs or even fissure veins) but is NEVER an acceptable method of supporting cantilever overhang (I know this is going to ruffle feathers of some fabricators) but let me repeat "NEVER". The fact is that, as a method of overhang support, it actually weakens overhanging material. You will not find this recommended by the MIA as an acceptable overhang support method. Here is a link that might be useful: The Amastin Company- Concealed Overhang Support

I love the pictures.....I really look forward to seeing the different ones.... Those beans remind me of our's last year...I thought I had planted bush beans but when they started to grow and then reached up and attached themselves to the tree next to the garden, I knew I had made a mistake...I thought we were going to have to climb the tree to pick the beans....But they sure were good.....

Please see the thread below (but do not post any questions, etc., on it. If it doesn't answer the OP's question, the OP should continue to post here. If it doesn't answer anyone else's questions, please start your own thread and don't hijack mommytofive's thread.) From the thread, "Stone Information and Advice (& Checklists)": Countertop Support - depth: If your granite is 2 cm thick, then there can be no more then 6" of of unsupported span with a 5/8" subtop If your granite is 3 cm thick, then there can be no more then 10" of unsupported span - no subtop required If you need support, to determine your corbel dimensions: Thickness of Stone - Dimension of Unsupported Span = Corbel Dimension e.g., an 18" total overhang in 2 cm would require a 12" corbel; the same overhang in 3 cm would require an 8" corbel Countertop Support - length: A corbel or support every 30" of unsupported overhang Ask your fabricator to look into "Counter Balance Brackets". They offer support without being obvious. At least one company, "Chemical Concepts" has them. http://www.chemical-concepts.com/marketsegment/product/view/135/countertop-fabrication/counterbalance/9/) http://www.chemical-concepts.com/media/pdf/CounterBalance%20Product%20Guide.pdf

We used the T brackets, I think 20” also. We beefed up the back of the peninsula with an extra layer of 3/4” plywood and then the 1/4” skin on top of that. I’m not taking any chances our marble cracks from kids hanging on it or hefty adults leaning on it. Our marble guy didn’t seem to think it was necessary but it was a small investment compared to the cost of the stone. Also, we have white painted maple and I didn’t want to compromise the integrity of the face frames by screwing into the back of them as in the hidden island supports ETA: our overhang is 15”, which is the recommended overhang for seating.