Help: Safe Removal - Salvage of Granite Countertops
10 years ago
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- 10 years ago
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Comments (39)I also had new (light colored) granite installed in mid December. About three weeks after the install, we began to notice the green. After much time and effort researching the problem we found out we have green bloom. Our green bloom is around where the fabricator cut out the sink, faucet and soap dispenser. We have had both the stone distributor and the fabricator out to see the problem. Stone distributor confirms it is not a stone problem (no minerals in our stone which would cause green discoloration)! Fabricator insists he didn't do anything to the stone during fabrication that would cause the green! He assured us he does not use the products that cause the green bloom?????? We contacted the Granite and Marble Institute and they confirmed for us that our problem was caused by products used during fabrication. After all the discussions and denials we have decided to try to resolve the problem ourselves using a (recommended) product called Mangia Macchia. The last thing we want is to replace our granite (spending more $$$$ or suing someone and then dealing with the mess of replacement and the problem of finding granite we like again). As we move forward trying to remove the green bloom, it is our understanding that the product needs to be applied multiple times before you see results. We began the first treatment yesterday. We took before and after pictures so we can document the results of what the product does to the green bloom and our sealed granite! If Mangia Macchia does not work we have a bigger problem since our fabricator refuses to admit they are at fault! I will keep you posted as to our progress resolving our horrible green bloom problem. Hopefully, this posting will help others who have experience the same problem and have been told by their fabricator and distributor they never heard of or have seen this situation before!!!!!...See MoreHelp: removing laminate countertops
Comments (2)The key is figuring out how they are attached. The most likely answer (and the answer in my particular case) is that in the top corner of each cabinet there will be a triangular block of wood (or sometimes plastic). Through each of these there will be a screw going up into the countertop. Remove all of these screws and pull up on the outer edge of the countertop, and the top should feel loose. If not look for more screws. Also if you have a small formica backsplash attached to the counter, and it is caulked to the wall, carefully cut the caulk with a utility knife. Good luck, it really ought to be pretty easy, Although if the installer decided to glue it to the cabinets you could be in for a not-fun time....See MoreHelp: removing laminate countertops
Comments (1)I've removed a couple and it's not that difficult. First, I take out all the drawers and remove any sinks, faucets or cooktops that may be on the counter. I then look under the counter, especially in the corners, and remove any screws that may be holding the counter in place. I use a wide flat chisel (looks like a putty knife but heavier), hammer and pry bar to remove the backsplash first, then I start working from the sink opening using a prybar to wedge between the countertop and the cabinet cross frame. Gently tapping under the countertop with a small sledge hammer helps in certain situations but you need to watch the front and side edges of the cabinets to make sure nothing is being damaged as the top breaks loose. It usually pops off in one solid piece but if you have some hidden nails, have a recip saw handy to cut thru them. Be careful lifting it off since it tends to break wherever there is a seam....See MoreOld cabs: how to safely remove old paint?
Comments (13)It's probably a safe assumption that there will be lead in the lower layers given the age of the house, I think---not even sure I'd bother to test it. (They do test for free here, though---I wouldn't be surprised if Portland does too.) Lead was in virtually all enamel/cabinet/trim paint before the late 60s. But you can still sand with the sponges---that's what they're designed for, in part. When they're wet, they'll contain the dust so that it's not all over the place; a mask will also help to make sure you're not breathing it, and then afterwards you wet mop to get up any bits of dust on the floor. We did the whole lead testing and education bit with our county last year, and it was super helpful. One of the more important things I learned was that while lead is icky stuff, it's largely a concern if it's eaten or inhaled in quantities, so you can do a lot to prevent that and to let older kids know to avoid chipping paint and wash hands after touching it. It's also less of a concern if it's a one-time project than if it's ongoing chipping, like with a window where someone's painted the sash so every time it opens or closes, fine dust comes down. Projects can be more easily secured so toddlers and pets are away from the work. The really important thing they drilled into us was that the surface of the paint needs to be intact---you don't need to remove lead paint, but you do need to have it covered with a good layer of new paint on top. It's worse to take some of it off and open up lower layers to chipping/flaking than just to leave them alone and paint over with good quality paint, unless you have the resources (time, energy and/or money!) to strip down to the bare wood. In your case, I'd only touch it enough to get it into paintable shape. The biggest problem we had was our dog---lead paint chips apparently smell/taste sweet, which is what attracts babies too. So we would constantly catch him snuffling in an area where work was going on, trying to find the chips. Finally just gave up on that and shut him out of the room all together till we were done!...See MoreRelated Professionals
El Dorado Hills Kitchen & Bathroom Designers · Piedmont Kitchen & Bathroom Designers · Southbridge Kitchen & Bathroom Designers · United States Kitchen & Bathroom Designers · Bensenville Kitchen & Bathroom Designers · Bethel Park Kitchen & Bathroom Remodelers · Cocoa Beach Kitchen & Bathroom Remodelers · Fort Washington Kitchen & Bathroom Remodelers · Richland Kitchen & Bathroom Remodelers · Upper Saint Clair Kitchen & Bathroom Remodelers · Fairmont Kitchen & Bathroom Remodelers · Aspen Hill Cabinets & Cabinetry · Baldwin Tile and Stone Contractors · South Holland Tile and Stone Contractors · Plum Design-Build Firms- 10 years ago
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