Have you got a link to the post? I need to make some window treatments that don't take a ton of fabric. Thanks!

Bleigh, I don't know if you can view my "clippings" or not, but I've got the link with the written instructions and the finished product there. If not, I'll try to cut and paste the directions tomorrow. Really, If you can sew a straight line, you can make these.

And I don't have photos of the ones I just made because the room is still very much a work in progress, but I just hung one of them to see if I needed to change the placement of my hardware before I paint and I did a little happy dance just seeing it hanging there. I can't wait to make up the third one!

What a wonderful thing to see - that people are still using those simple valance instructions and enjoying them.

I had rotator cuff surgery last Wed. so am plinking along with one hand, and it's not the right one that I always use!

Bleigh, I have the instructions in Word, but there is no spacing, which makes them difficult to read. Give me a while to try to make them better, and I will copy them here. Franksmom is right; they use very little fabric, are easy, and depending on the fabric and trim you use, you can get very different looks. Here are some that I have made -

Wow, those look like expensive custom valances! I'm impressed.

I'm just teaching myself how to sew. Does anyone know if there's a way to make cheap and easy roman shades that are operational? Or would I just be better off buying them?

Here are the LONG, but easy, instructions I said I'd post earlier -

Easy to sew valance directions

They ARE EASY - but the directions are long, because I am trying to give you enough detail, even if you are a beginner.

Read them all the way through so you understand them. If you are a real novice, you may want to make a sample using just muslin, or other inexpensive fabric, til you get the hang of it. This is a no-pattern valance that I started making last summer. It requires just straight stitching. My windows are generally about 50" (more or less) in height.

If your windows are very short or very tall, you may want to vary the length of the fabric you use. I would say to err on the 'buy more' side though, so they don't look skimpy. The fullness adds richness. I generally use 1 1/4 yards of 54" wide home dec fabric to make the valance. You will need an equal amount of lining fabric. If you choose to put trim on the bottom (it adds a lot to the treatment, IMO) buy 1 1/2 yards of trim to make sure you have enough to go across the length of your 54" wide fabric. If your fabric is wider than 54", buy enough trim to cover its width.

Cut your valance fabric and lining to equal lengths. I always measure the side edges of my fabric and mark the length before cutting. It may have not been cut straight at the store, and you want to be sure that your left side is the same length as your right side.

Pin the two rectangles of fabric together on all sides, with the RIGHT (front) sides of the fabrics inside, facing each other. Before putting the fabrics together, I mark lightly on the back which is the TOP of the print (if using a print) and which is the bottom, so your print will end up right side up! Depending on the type of rod you plan to use for the valance, you need to leave openings on each side that will become your rod pocket.

Continental rods (the flat wide plain ones) need a 4" rod pocket. If you use a decorative rod, with finals on the end that screw off, I would recommend making your rod pocket 2" wide. For a small tension rod, I'd make the rod pocket 1.5" wide. You don't want to force your fabric onto the rod - allow room to make it easy for you.

Measure down from the TOP of your pinned together fabric, and make a light mark with pencil on each side, the size of your chosen rod pocket, plus 1/2". That 1/2" is going to be the width of your top seam. You'll be making a mark on the left and right sides 4 1/2" down from the top if you use a Continental rod, for example. Stitch from these marks down each side to the bottom, using a 1/2" seam. You'll need to leave an opening in the top or bottom to turn your valance inside out when you're done stitching. I'd suggest a 4" - 6" opening for turning. If your rod pocket openings are 4", you don't need to leave another opening, you can use them to turn it inside out.

Mark the opening you need to leave, then stitch across the top and bottom edges, using a 1/2" seam, leaving your opening...well...OPEN! Clip your fabric corners off OUTSIDE of your stitching. This is just a small triangle of fabric from each corner. This will allow you to get nice sharp edges on your corners when your turn the valance right side out, as it reduces the bulk of fabric there. Turn your valance right side out, pulling it through the opening you left. I use a wooden chop stick to push the fabric gently at the corners to make them nice and square, once I have turned mine right side out. Don't push too hard, or you may poke a hole through your valance!

At this point, you should have a lined rectangle of fabric, with rod pocket openings near the top of each side. Close the opening you left for turning, either by folding and pressing the edges in and hand stitching it closed, or use 'stitch witchery' type of fusing tape to do it. You can also sew it closed with your sewing machine, but you want to do it right at the edge. You want to make this closure as 'invisible' as possible, so I always use fusible tape.

Carefully iron your valance. Use your fingers to work the edges, so that you have your seam right in the middle of each edge, so you don't see the front fabric on the backside, and you don't see the lining from the front.

Now, to stitch the rod pocket. You will be making one row of stitching across the front of your fabric from side to side. Measure down from the top edge, so you have the same length opening on each side. The size of the opening you left on each side was determined above by the type of rod you're using.

You can lightly pencil on the line that you need to stitch across, or do what I do - Place the fabric on the sewing machine, and put the needle down on the place where you'll start stitching. Take a 4" (approx) length of masking tape, and lay it against the upper edge of the fabric, to the right of the needle, and stick it to the sewing machine base. You can use this tape edge as a guide to hold the top edge of your fabric against as you stitch across. It helps you make a straight, even rod pocket. My sewing machine has tape on it for all different widths of rod pockets.

If you chose to put trim on the bottom of your valance, do it now. I use 'Aleen's OK To Wash-It' fabric glue that you can get at Wal-Mart or a fabric store. If you use glue, just follow the directions on the bottle to glue your trim evenly to the front bottom of your valance. I lay my valance on my kitchen island, and let it set overnight, while the glue dries.

You can also stitch your trim on, either by hand or by machine. I prefer the glue, because you see no stitching on the back side.

Now to make the ties. You can simply buy ribbon (such as grosgrain) or use purchased cord (see my dining room silk ones in the link) or make them out of fabric. Use either the same fabric or a coordinating one. Here, you first need to decide if you are going to tie your valance up with bows, or do knots. Bows take longer ties. Allow yourself a MINIMUM of 36" long ties. You can always cut them shorter if necessary, but you can't make them longer.

I suggest hanging your valance up and using string to tie them up temporarily to see how long you need to make your ties. (It's longer than you think!) Cut your strips of fabric approx 4" wide and the length you have decided on above for your ties. Fold and pin the strips in half the short way, so you have a long strip of fabric that is 2" wide. Make sure the right sides are together, (inside) because you are going to turn them inside out after stitching. Stitch along the pinned edge of each strip, about 1/4" from the edge.

Now the fun part - turn those narrow strips inside out. My chop stick comes in handy for this, but use whatever method you choose to accomplish this. Press the ties just as you did the valance rectangle, making sure your seam is even on the edge.

I fold in the raw ends and use my fusible tape to close them, but you can machine stitch them closed or do it by hand - Your choice. Your valance is done!

Put it on your rod, using the rod pocket. Hang it in your window. Now, take the ties, and simply drape them over the rod on each side, having half of the tie fabric strip hanging in front, and the other half of the tie hanging behind the valance. Now, gather up one side of the valance in your hands, and reach behind it to grab the dangling tie in back.

Tie up the valance, by tying the front and back pieces of the tie together, either in a knot or a bow. Do the same with the other side, making sure your ties on each side are tied up at the same length.

Now stand back and make sure your valance looks even at the bottom on each side. Use your hand to 'finger fold' and drape your fabric until the look is what you want. You'll be surprised at what a difference it can make in the look by spacing your ties closer together, or moving them further apart on the rod. Also by tying the ties higher or lower... This is where you need to play around until you get the look you want.

You're very welcome M3D!! The only thing I would add to the directions is to use Fray Check on the raw ends that are turned under for the rod pocket. I did that before I turned and pressed.

I'm replacing apron-length curtains and adding blinds, so I think I'll hang the valance higher. The windows are small, plain, and ugly.

I thought this little powder room makeover would take a few days, but it's taking me forever. I'm replacing hardware and changing the placement of some things, so getting the walls all prepped and patched has been the big time constraint. I'm just itching to get it all painted and finished!

franksmom - can you tell me about the Fray check? Can you use it on clothing or does it make the fabric stiff?

Thought I would jump in since I am a Fray Check fan. Fray Check works well on most fabrics, but it sometimes leaves a dark "stain" so I always test it on a scrap before using it on decorator fabrics like silk and chintz. It does stiffen, but just slightly unless you really squirt it on!
Diane

I did a similar valance several years ago, but everything was glued, rather than sewed. I think it was Aileen fabric glue. ;o)

Thanks, Diane - I have some yoga pants that need to be shortened and I don't have a serger - this may help.

Sorry for the detour - carry on!!