Hi! I got the stone, marble for upstairs and granite for down, at Blue Rock Stone Center in Westbrook, ME. They have a large 'remnant' building and some outside areas where they have remnants. I checked prices at other places for remnants, and they were by far the best. The sinks are both Kohler, and I ordered both through Home Depot. The rectangular one in the first floor bath is one from their Memoirs series, #K2241. A quick search showed that HD is still the best pricing. The upstairs one is the Kohler Serif #2075. If you are making a vanity from a typical old dresser like my upstairs bath I searched far and wide to find a non-vessel sink that would fit. That is the only one that fit my needs. Note the each of the sinks come with one hole, or a 4" or 8" spread. I was working with existing faucets, so I had to order the 4" spread sinks.

You've got, it, Bru! That is exactly what I would do. As long at the treatments (both shutters and valance) are in the same proportions on each window, that's what will look best. You know that you can adjust the length of the valance just by tying it up higher, so personally, I'd wait til the shutters are in both sizes of windows, and the valances are made and hung on the rods, and then play with how high you want to tie them up. You may find that you want to reveal all of the bottom panes on the upper window, or drop it down just a tad more like I have. I've even tied mine up a bit higher during the summer when it's bright and sunny, and drop them a bit for coziness in the fall and winter.

Thanks to Chijim telling me about this post, here I am! I haven't done that style on a wide window, to be honest, just the standard double hung. I agree a picture of your windows would help us determine if this style will work there. You may also want to look online at patterns, such as McCalls or Pate Meadows to see if they show valances on windows like yours. I recently did this back tab style for my bay window in the back of my LR, if this interests you at all. I did that to go with this in the window at the other end of the room. My dogs like to sit in the bay window and I couldn't do panels there. I also just did this style for my sister, which may work for your wider windows and allow the use of trim at the bottom. I can look up the pattern if this appeals to you. It's the same as this one that I did for over my kitchen sink. You can see how different fabrics and trim really change the look.

Hi tina, Mine are 9 3/4" tall, and I got a fabulous price on them compared to most I see out there. You're right - they are pricey. I have a local lighting store that has an incredible array of parts. I go crazy in their back room choosing parts I want for each project! I bought two 12" ivory candlestick covers. Just a longer version of what you'd put on chandelier lamps. They're just plastic. I also bought 2 rubber 'things' with a hole in the center. I guess they are normally used when one wants to make a lamp out of a bottle or jug. They go in the neck of the bottle, but in this case, I shaved them down with a sharp knife and put them in the candlestick, where the candle would normally go. They are about 1" tall. I also bought 2 chandelier bulb sockets. I didn't want to damage the candlesticks by drilling them, so I elected to use an 'inline switch' that you'll see in the photo below. I put the rubber thing in the candlestick and slid the candle cover over it. I noted where the rubber thing came up inside the candle cover. Then, I took the candle cover off, and punched a small hole in it with a paper punch, just above where the rubber thing would be. That hole is where I slid the wire up through to the socket. I wired the socket and glued it into the top of the candle cover. You may need to use tape to hold it in place while it dries. I then attached the plug to the end of the wire. I put the bulb in to check my wiring, and plugged the lamp in. It worked, so then I took the inline switch and decided where to put it, so it would be hidden by the candlestick when done. The first inline switch was a little funky, but the second one went on in a breeze. Just follow the directions for using one. IF you don't mind plugging the lamp in each time to turn them on, you can omit the inline switch, and just plug and unplug them. My outlet is behind a chair and that would be awkward, so I just put the switches on. Making a lamp yourself means that you can make the cord as long as it needs to be to plug it in wherever. I usually use the clear gold tones lamp wire, as it blends in with my mantle. So now, you have a working lamp with an inline switch to turn it on. Look VERY closely at the photo below, and you will see that I used some brown covered floral wire to wrap around the candlestick, and then twisted it together, to hold the wire and switch tight to the candlestick. You have to be right on top of that thing to see the wire. Then I headed to eBay and found some shades, and that was it! I am making some now out of brass candlesticks, to try with my new/old CL mirror. But for those, I am using the 'fiber' candle covers with realistic looking drips on them. I just took a pic of that one underway so you can see the rubber thing. It starts out ribbed, but I have shaved this one down to fit the candle holder. What it will look like done, with a sample eBay shade on it.