I have golden oak cabinetry which I dislike quite a bit...and just installed brazilian cherry hardwood. All of our furniture is darker woods, too. It doesn't all match perfectly, but the home feels cozy and we get compliments on it.

Like you I prefer a more contemporary feel. I say get what you want. I would probably make sure that the maple isn't close enough to the oak to look like you attempted to match yet different enough to look like you didn't quite make it, if you know what I mean.

erin & roseabbey: THANKS so much for commenting! It helps a lot!

The maple flooring looks primarily gray but has hints of brown in different light, but, mostly gray looking. I attached a link to the model home where I discovered the flooring (it's Mirage-Maple-Charcoal-shown in the semi-gloss)so, because it's a tighter grain than oak and is gray (vs. golden oak), I think that addresses what you're saying to me.

I really appreciate your help!! It makes me feel so much better to have feedback as I am so NOT confident it isn't even funny : /

Here is a link that might be useful: Photos of floor-click

Link above: be sure to click the "Click Here For More Photo's" link in the middle of the page, then be sure to see all photo's by clicking the arrow(there's three pages)

What d'ya think? (w/golden oak and I've got some "gravender"/darker purple accents and a little green going on in my house)

redecor8: I know what you mean. The model home is for SURE updated and modern!

The architecture of my home looks super contemporary from the outside. The inside is contemporary too...except for the oak which was the "way to go" in the 80's in Wisconsin I guess. (We built our home-converted it from a spancrete two room school building!) Our cabinets were custom built and all the doors are louvered, so, not the traditional cabinets we're used to seeing. Seriously, I go back and forth, back and forth about these cabinets. A while ago I had a decorator come over to consult about going to granite and she said she actually liked my cabinets. It's confusing to me as I don't know for sure if she was just humoring me to sell a granite counter OR if she was serious?

Anyways, for the most part our home looks contemporary...however, not NEARLY as modern as this model house I linked to. I'm looking at berber carpet as I speak and I can't visualize going to wood as it is! I'm trusting my daughter who says I need to change it!

"Will the contrast look deliberate or like you are waiting to replace/repaint your cabinets?"
I sure the heck hope not! But, I know EXACTLY what you're questioning!

I reread your post once I looked at the pictures. I might rethink my original opinion, I missed the part about the trim being oak as well, I was just thinking your kitchen was. Not sure how it would look, if your trim and doors were white you could pull if off, it would separate the two kinds of wood and the two colors.

I decided to quick take some pictures of how things look TODAY. I truly hesitate because I want to do SO MANY things over that I'm a little embarrassed to show but...if you're like me, a pix tells a thousand words so I'll throw caution to the wind if I REALLY want honest opinions. I welcome even brutal comments, I really do. Being "nice" won't help me, so THANK YOU in advance!

This is the front of my house. We're in the process of redoing the front decking and landscape:

This is the back of our house:

This shows the kitchen from the great room:

This is the kitchen close up. I want to change the hardware I think?? Would you go with black over stainless?

My dining area adjoins the kitchen (between the kitchen and great room. Use the fireplace as a reference maybe)

Dining towards great room. Obviously will reconsider area rug color after new floor is down:

Great Room. I will be getting new carpet. The stairs going down will be floating wood ( I THINK?) probably stained to match the new wood floor on the upper level.

The paint colors throughout will be tweaked after getting the new flooring.
I need new lamps and maybe side tables.
Recommendations for great room floor color would be greatly appreciated. Would you go with a frieze or the scuptured kind of thing I've seen?(I was considering continuing into the great room with the gray wood floor and then have area rug under sitting area, but I think it'll be too expensive plus I like carpeting to place with grandkids, etc).

Okay...sock it to me............????

I really like like your house! I can see where why you are thinking about the maple flooring....I think it would look great, especially with your wall coloring. I would continue it into your family room though and look for a great looking rug to pull the colors together. Love your fireplace.

I would change the hardware to black. I would also change the large light fixture in the kitchen to something else more updated.

roseabbey: Thanks so much for replying. I hoped photo's would help w/describing my situation.

RE: continuing wood flooring into the great room, I totally know what you're saying. Because the wood is sooo expensive though ($10-12+ per sq. ft) don't know if I can afford that : / When final numbers come in for the 635 sq. ft. I already need, then I'll know. (Would you fight for it, or could you settle on a great wall to wall carpet if you had to?)

Any opinions about matte finish over semi-gloss? (I do have a lot of sunlight on one side of my house) and glare is especially noticeable looking from the entry/foyer towards the dining (ex: 6th photo/second to last), not that I have sun all day long though.

Thanks for noticing the kitchen light. I was wondering about that. Also need a dining room light! Right now it's stuck as high up as I could put it (so I can't see it, haha) and I took off the hanging beveled smoke glass prism things. That's something else that's dated. Can't wait to figure out a light for there boy.(any recommendations?)

I would definately fight for continuing the flooring into my family room, I personally dont like wall to wall carpeting so I am bias. I also love area rugs, they really make a room for me if colors are well chosen.
As far as finish is concerned... is there no satin finish, that would be my choice, as that is between matte and semi gloss. Both matte and semi have their pros and cons. Matte is very forgiving, wont see water spots, crumbs, dust, but semi gloss has a sparkle which I like some of in a floor.

Wood Floor finish: What I'm calling "matte" is actually called "Cashmere" by the manufacturer. Here is a link that includes a side by side picture comparing the two finishes. Scroll down just a little. What do you think I oughta go with?

(PS: Tell me...what do ya'll REALLY think of my golden oak cabinets? Horrid? or does it work okay with direction I'm going? Please. the truth.)

Thanks!

Here is a link that might be useful: Semi-gloss vs. Cashmere finish

I would pick the cashmere. The semi gloss is to shiny.

I usually dont like oak cabinets, but I actually dont mind your cabinets, it goes well in your home. Looks like you have louvred doors, you dont see too much of the grain. I agree with the designer. Having them sprayed a different color would update your kitchen, maybe that is something for a future project, but as I said I dont mind the look you have going on.

roseabbey: Thanks so much for all your helpful critique and for spending so much time on me! I very much appreciate it!

Last question about wood flooring: Is there a rule of thumb or an opinion which direction the wood should go in my situation? Or doesn't it really matter as far as looks go? Then, if I DO continue into the great room, would you keep the direction going in the same way?

Okay, one more voice-sort of! I agree with roseabbey. I would fight to carry the floors throughout and put down an area rug in the family room (also biased against wall-to-wall). I also am not one who likes oak, but I do like your cabinets. Go figure. Roseabbey and I really are two different people-lol. I would run the flooring in the same direction in both rooms since you look from one into the other. I would run it in the same direction as the stairs.

I do think you have a terrific house!

Really? Oh my gosh! I can't even say enough how much I appreciate the positive comments. Honestly, if you even knew how much I second-guess & fret over these things, ESPECIALLY my "oakness"! you'd put a cold washcloth on my forehead and tell me to "Go lay down!" LOL

Also, it's good to hear from "two different people"! That's a LOT better than just one other person (who I was worried was thinking I WAY LATCHed onto! hah)

Tell me cyn, would you also change my cabinet hardware to a darker color like black? (I know HD sells the same style in black that I have in SS however I could shop a lil too for something a little cooler).

I do appreciate opinions. Thanks so much again everyone!

I really like your house, and your fireplace is to die for! I agree with roseabbey and cyn427. My first inclination with your original description was to say the floor wouldn't work, but after seeing your pictures, I think it will. I also like your cabinets, but I'm always a fan of anything out of the ordinary; it's the stock see-them-everywhere oak cabinets I dislike. Fight for the floors; it's worth it. If you need to for your grandchildren, you can always bind a carpet remnant in a neutral color, though a patterned rug would add a lot to your room. I don't see a lot of pattern around.
Dee

Well, I'll be darned : )

I am now SO glad I posted my pictures! It's really hard to describe in words, and I was feeling timid to do it, but BOY was it ever better to post pictures I guess!

I am SO happy you like the fireplace too! The top center part is a different kind of antique oak wainscoating we recycled from who knows where that we stripped and then I think just varnished. We installed it in that slanted sort of way to be different I guess. I'm so happy you guys like it!

I only recently painted the original gold trim on the firebox to black because I was certain THAT was something else that was dated~got the directions from a handy dandy Gardenweb forum! Now I'm trying to go through the whole house with "new eyes" so to speak.

Continuing the floor: My instinct (as well as my daughter and now you guys) tells me that continuing with the wood floor is probably the thing to do. We're from the carpet world era so it's difficult to visualize and think I'll like, but I know it certainly is the updated thing to do.

Regarding pattern, I recently bought the two chairs in the great room and they have a small herringbone pattern that I THOUGHT was going to appear bigger patternwise. Instead it just looks like a solid color when even 5 feet away so that blew that idea. Guess I was too conservative. Now I think pillows and window treatments? will help with adding patterns...well of course, so could a beautiful area rug! (DH: hint hint, haha)

I SO appreciate this feedback. THANK YOU for taking the time to comment!

Pictures help a lot : ) I agree that your house is very nice!
I love your fireplace. Kitchen is great and granite is beautiful. A couple years ago, dh and I were researching wood flooring and I remember that Mirage was one of the few we narrowed down to. Mirage has an excellent reputation. I think the maple will go well with your home and think the lower shine will be best. For me, it's just personal preference for a lower shine and I've heard that it shows less scratches, etc. We ended up getting Lauzon, but I'm sure that I would have been just as happy with Mirage.
In our case, we painted the house before installing the flooring...didn't have to worry about drips, etc. Plenty of people paint after flooring is installed and it works out fine. Just have to be more cautious.
The wood flooring is really going to enhance your already beautiful home!
-Laurie

Thanks laurie. I am going to check out Lauzon. I saw that name before and that it was a great quality. I see gray colors on their website so I'll check that out! Thanks!

I have a really hard time choosing from samples. I put 'em here, put 'em there, and just cannot PICTURE how it'd look in my house overall (so I never make decisions. I should trust myself but I don't). The reason I'm excited about the Mirage is because I went to a "Parade of Homes" recently (where local builders showcase model homes) and saw the Mirage in maple/charcoal installed in a vast area in "real life". After two years now I felt like I finally found the floor. That said, I think I have a bit more confidence to consider other brands if the gray is close in color.

QUESTION: We were told by the Mirage salesperson that we should consider the engineered "Lock" which is FLOATED and has a "high density fiber core", less $ and easier to install vs. the Mirage "Engineered" w/hardwood plywood base that can be floated or glued and we'd need a new subfloor. Apparently the LOOK is identical to each other, & they're both hardwood, the biggest difference is the Lock isn't as thick while the Engineered can be sanded and refinished 3-4 times! Should we consider the "Lock" if the claim that they look identical is true?

QUESTION: If we continue with wood floor in our great room there is a little more direct sunlight coming in than in the dining/kitchen space. Should I worry about fading especially if I put down an area rug or not really because Mirage treats their floors w/a UV protection?

Thanks : )

tyiy, I am happy you have gotten more responses and all positive ones. What you describe IMO are two different floors, one is a laminated, and the other is real hardwood. I dont think you would be happy with the laminated. I have never seen a laminated floor that looks and feels like the real stuff. IMO you should get the engineered one. Have you checked around to see if there are better prices, 10-12 dollars a foot seems very high to me. We can buy it here for 6-7 dollars. Run the flooring all in the same direction, it looks much better.

THIS is one aspect I am getting totally confused about. I THINK the salesperson is telling me that the Mirage LOCK is NOT laminate (like a picture), that it's actually HARDWOOD just not as thick as what Mirage calls "Engineered". (Mirage also has a third choice, a hard wood floor they call "Classic").

One selling point for the Engineered over Lock is that Engineered can be sanded/refinished 4-5 times I guess. (However, from reading things on here it seems like it's the top "finish" that gets worn down, not really the wood so the refinishing part isn't really that important?)

Am I REALLY messed up in my understanding of all this?

One thing I've decided is that the salesperson I've spoken with talked too fast, haha, and that I'm going to go to a different store to see what they say.

If anyone can help me understand this here though that would be GREAT! Any readers here actually use Mirage? That TOO would be helpful! (I'm also trying for info on the Flooring forum but not much feedback so far : / I'm afraid)

This is strictly MHO, but floated floors tend to feel spongy to me when you walk on them. It's the reason we chose not to float the floor when we recently installed bamnboo flooring in our bonus room. We decided to glue it to save the expense of renting a nailer and the physical challenge of nailing for my DIY DH. Big mistake! The glue was messy, smelly, and kept drying up even when the container was closed tightly. DH stopped and rented the nailer. Of course, if you're not DIY, you may not care. Also, according to the website, the Lock hardwood has a "high density fiber core". That's why you can't refinish it. I would go with the engineered, but again, that's just MHO. But, just to throw another thing into the mix, the wood has a micro v bevel edge. We found that to be a dirt collector, and had ours sanded out, but I know others here who have said it wasn't a problem for them.

Dee

We bought our wood online and saved a lot of money. Also DIY glue down installation. Agree with Dee...glue down is messy and more difficult to install. We prefer the feel of walking on a solid glue down product, but floating floors don't bother me.

I wish I had saved my notes on Mirage and their products. I do remember calling the technical support phone number and speaking in length to a very helpful person who took considerable time in explaining and answering questions.

From what I've learned on this forum, many people don't need to sand the wood layer...just the top finish layer. That process might be called something like "screen & recoat"? I also heard that the factory finished engineered wood products are extremely durable and should last many years depending on use...maybe 10-15-20 yrs? Most top brands like Mirage are going to have quality finishes on their products. I would not worry about the sunlight, especially if you choose a light color.

What kind of subfloor do you have in your house...wood or concrete? In your kitchen area...is that tile or linoleum?
If linoleum, is is a solid sheet or is it individulal squares? The reason I ask is because we left our lineoleum alone and installed on top of it. It was the sheet kind and it was solidly adheared to the concrete subfloor...it wasn't peeling up anywhere.
-Laurie

Thanks rose, dee, and laurie! I truly appreciate your advice and first hand knowledge. It's what I'm looking for!

Our existing subfloor on kitch/dining/foyer (upper) level is cheap particle board; concrete on the lower great room level. Existing kitchen floor is 1980's sheet linoleum. (should come up easy)

If we used Mirage "Engineered" on upper level we would have to cut out the old subfloor down to floor joists, install new 3/4" plywood, then new floor. Hardest part will be cutting around existing kitchen cabinets and of course all perimeters where floors meet walls. We will do all that work DIY. We MAY/may not hire an installer to put in the new flooring. We were quoted $1,900 installation for just the upper level(635 sq. ft)!

The lower level turns out is 540 sq. ft. more and will require the glue over concrete so ??? wonder how much that will be for install?!

DH is super handy so we ARE capable of doing the upper if we had to, if we have TIME for, but GLUing scares me. Can't speak for DH.

With floating "Lock" on upper level, we could use all existing subfloor and install good matting/padding/soundproofing. It'd be a very easy DIY project. Floating on lower level would be the same I suppose even over concrete.

When the salesperson talked about the Lock it made me think, "Gee, why in the world wouldn't everybody choose the Lock?" He was that excited about it. Frankly, I had never even given Lock a thought till then as I had a pre-conceived opinion myself about "laminate" and thought Lock WAS just "laminate" and would look fake. I don't think it really is now, but, that said, I also don't know if there will be the "spongyness" as dee mentioned, and/or if that could cause me great regret : /

So you see, I'm just sorta trying to find out if Mirage Lock is indeed the greatest thing since sliced bread? Like pix are worth a thousand words, so would seeing Lock installed somewhere, hey?!

RE: flooring directon...

An entry above suggested:
"... run the flooring in the same direction in both rooms since you look from one into the other. I would run it in the same direction as the stairs."

QUESTION: On the upper level between the front door & dining is a long, narrow hall we're also going to re-floor. If we follow the advice to run the planks in the same direction as the stairs going down into our great room that would mean the hallway would have boards running perpendicular (side to side) vs. lengthwise (like a bowling alley?) Is that a standard direction in a hallway? (btw: there are also two steps (going down) in the hallway)

In this picture the hallway is located on the right, just before that little stone thing (you can sort of see the step direction on either side of our fireplace):

In this picture the hallway is located on the left (kind of across the room from the stairs next to the fireplace):

THANKS!

From your pictures posted Oct.10, I can see the few steps that go from the dining area down to the great room. You mention that there are two steps going down in the hallway.
As you enter your home from the front door, are there a couple steps going down into the hallway?

IMO it would look nice to have the boards run the long way from the front door down the hall and all the way to the sliding glass door. The great room appears rectangular in the picture...from the steps to the TV looks to be the long direction of that room. My guess is that you could run those boards either way in that great room, but I would probably choose to run those boards perpendicular to the entry/hallway/dining area.

In our home we ran the boards the long way from the front door through the hall to the back of the family room. We have a small step down (one step) from the front entry to the living room on the left as you enter the house. We purchased enough wood to have the living room done and will install that hopefully this January. We are planning on running those boards perpendicular to the ones we did everywhere else. Couple reasons are: to help delineate the step down for anyone who is not familiar with our home - let people see that there is a change in level and help avoid a stumble down. Also, the LR is rectangular so the room may look better with the boards going the long way in there.
-Laurie

I may have reached the max. number of pics I can post on Photobucket? I can't find the "add photos to this album" link anymore. I'll try and find some pics from what I've got to help visualize what I have tried to explain:

This pic was taken from the top of the stairs. As you are viewing this pic : the front door is at the top, DR on left, LR on right, flooring continues at bottom all the way to the wall of the FR.

In this pic, you can see a small portion of the entry step down (on lower left) into the rectangular LR. The long direction of the LR goes from the entry to the windows. In January, our plans are to run the boards the long direction in this room (perpendicular to the entry boards)

Laurie! THANKS so much!

That's your Lauzon flooring isn't it!?! Wonderful job! I'll bet you're so happy, it looks really great!! : ) I'm planning on checking out Lauzon still. I think you're right on to draw a little attention to the step down. We've got that same situation on our outdoor front porch and people really HAVE stumbled, they don't notice the step! Going perpendicular will no doubt accomplish the goal! And continuing the hardwood will look awesome! PS: YOUR fireplace is cool, so unique! : )

My hall: If you look at my 2nd pix from today (Oct. 13) you can sort of see my open front door (it's a vestibule). Then I have a foyer that's about 8 feet wide and in about 10 ft. (halfway towards the dining area) is the hallway (that turns right 90 degrees). The hall is long and narrow and then steps down.

There's about 31 ft. from the front door to the sliding glass doors (by dining). This dining section also widens from the foyer's 8' to about 15' wide (kitchen to fireplace).

If we ran the boards front door to sliding it results in hallway boards running side to side (vs. longways down the hall (like bowling! haha)

QUESTION: Will this 31' of board lengths look "stripey", again, bowling alleyish, in glare?

QUESTION: Is there a rule of thumb for hallways? Will boards running crosswise look odd?

Yes, the great room (3 full size steps down) is longer from the fireplace to the TV (about 27 ft). Room is 20' wide (wall to windows). That entire carpeted space is over concrete.

We are going to put in a handrail going down each side of the fireplace and PROBABLY build new open back "floating" style steps, maybe even out of a solid slab of wood. I was wondering if a tinted stairnose at the top edge would look nice? Now I wonder if I should go perpendicular with hardwood like you maybe?!

(this is all IF we indeed go hardwood vs. carpet again) I'm a little freaked about going to hard floors everywhere. It took me long enough to get it in my head for the upper part, but the lower too??? I KNOW it'll be more modern but...is it actually as cozy and comfortable? (Funny thing is, I can SO see hardwood extended into YOUR living room and think it'd look fanTAStic. Am I just blind to my own.

Also, I know this wasn't even my original question, but I'm still worried about my choice of Mirage-Maple-Charcoal (gray) is too dark now. Dang it! In the sunshiney day it's not at all dark. And the model home was beautiful. But here at night...?

QUESTION: Anyone think I already have too much dark/black going on? Should I be considering a lighter floor?

Thank you for the kind words : )

I think the boards would look best going longways down the hall to the sliding glass door. Not sure about the entry and the 90 degree turn. Would be good to see a picture of that area.

I went to the Mirage web site and looked at the maple, charcoal gray and it's beautiful! I also searched and found another site that showed some more pictures of it. If you pick on the link below, scroll about halfway down and there you'll see a few pics of the maple charcoal.
It will look fantastic in your home : )

Here is a link that might be useful: Hardwood Floor Gallery

We had no choice but to run our 3/4" hardwood flooring, opposite the floor joists upstairs. Not sure if this would apply to your situation. You asked about the bowling alley look in the hallway. Here is a picture of our hallway with the wood running the long way, I think it looks fine (ignore the rug, still looking for a wider one).

We chose a dark color too. You look like you have a lot of windows, I think the dark color will look good in your space.

{{!gwi}}

{{!gwi}}

laurie: Thanks so, so much! Got me back to Image Searching and I feel a lot better : )

roseabbey: WOW, how beautiful is that! You're talented! You are right about me having a lot of windows so after seeing your floors being darker I am not going to fret about that now, and I can see how accessorizing or complimenting dark w/lighter aspects can also pull everything together, so, thank you so much for your input.

RE: Board direction, I sounds like it basically boils down to two choices...

1. Run the boards from front door to sliding doors (seems like the general concensus)=hall with boards side to side.

or

2. Run the boards side to side (left to right) from front door to sliding doors=hall with boards running longways, like roseabbeys, who is right, it does not seem bowlingalleyish at all to me.

I suppose an option is to have a seam where the hallway starts out from the foyer, but, I can't imagine that.

Found this not-so-great picture that's shadowed bad but you can sort of see the hall that turns right past that temporary cabinet on the right.

My possible plan would be after laying a new floor to maybe have a rug runner in foyer and maybe a matching one for under the dining table? Opinions welcome!

roseabbey - beautiful pictures! Love your floor and paint colors. This is a great example for tyjy to see the boards going the long way.

tyjy - in your picture above: was that taken from your front door? The hallway on right (about halfway towards the dining room)...how long is that hallway and where does it go to?

The boards would look great running the long way in the picture you posted above. You could also have them run the long way in that hallway on the right if you want to. May need a transition piece there? (flooring companies make all kinds of transition pieces).

I've heard people say that the rugs don't have to match exactly...but maybe to be similar in color & style.

-Laurie

tyjy, thank you. I agree with Laurie about the rugs, not matching but complimentary to each other.

Laurie, thank you for the compliment.
Seeing a picture always helps me, so I thought it would help tyjy.

THANKS! I did not know that about rugs! I really appreciate the tip! It'll probably make it a lil easier when the time comes.

Yes, the photo above was taken from the front door looking in. And yep, the one and only hallway starts out about 10' in from the front door. The hall itself is narrow, only 3' wide and it's about 16' long (utility, bath,laundry rooms off of), then steps down, then a landing where 3 bedrooms branch off.

MENTAL PICTURE: If you looked down on my house from the sky ... it looks like an airplane! ha ha Wings on each side. ('member, it WAS a school!)

roseabbey: If I run the main room boards longways from front door to sliding doors, would you also use a transition strip at the start of the hallway so that the hall boards can likewise run the long way? Or, would you opt to keep all the boards running the same way as the main room (which would result in no transition strip but the planks going side to side in the hall)?

I haven't read all of this thread, but I just wanted to throw in that in our flooring search, the man said the mirage brand was cadillac, top notch, the best out there in terms of finish, processing and selection of the wood. We couldn't afford it, but I thought it really was lovely.

Your house is neat, Love the fireplace - although that is not what this is about;)

Roseabby - what kind of wood is your floor, and what is the stain color?

I would run the boards all the same way and not use a transition piece. Running the boards sideways in your hallway would make the hallway look wider and in your case that would be best since the hallway is only 3 feet wide. My hallway is over 5 feet wide.

kjmama, the floors are maple with walnut stain.

khmama: Except for the cost (which isn't a small thing), I have gotten nothing but great comments about Mirage! And seeing it for myself in that model home...WOW! It truly is beautiful!

I still am going to check out the Lauzon brand, ONLY because of Mirage cost. I'm also investigating Mirage Lock. It's an intriguing possibility if it indeed looks like Mirage Engineered. Lock would cost less in materials and subfloor criteria.

roseabbey: Excellent point! I definitely would like the hall to feel wider, so really, boards side to side (if laid strategically) could actually be a good thing! Also, the entry/foyer area in turn is quite wide, so boards running longways from there is also advantageous!

Whew!I am feeling SO much better about this whole project now! Even starting to get excited! : D

Thanks to everyone for bearing with me and truly helping me work this out! Your advice has been invaluable!

I don't like my oak cabinets but yours look nice. The louvered doors are different.

My vote would be for the lower gloss cashmere floor. We have a satin tung oil finish and it is lower maintenance than a high gloss floor.

We did a carpet inlay rather than run the wood flooring all through the living room. Love it for comfort since we like to spend time on the floor with the little one, but I do think using hardwood throughout would look better.