Looking for creative ideas on how to finish out hood vent.

15 years ago

You guys are so good at stuff like this, I thought someone might have some thoughts or ideas that I've overlooked.

Okay, we are still in construction phase in the kitchen .. but getting closer. Right now we are in the process of sealing the floors with waterlox, we have two more coats to go. Once that's complete, we have one more window to install. Then beadboard around the windows and in between where the stove and hood vent will set will be white subway tiles.

Here's a pic of the hood vent we are using, the actual vent is still wrapped in plastic and in the box.

Our stove again to see what we are working with:

Below are pics of the area as it sits now, the gap is for the stove which is 40" wide .. above will sit the hood vent which is 48", on each side will be a window ( one is installed right now ) .. abutting the window trim in the middle will be subway tiles below the vent. The bottom of the hood vet is 30" up from the stove top, the hood is 18" high which leaves roughly 16" to the bottom of the crown molding .. or 21 1/2" to the ceiling. This area needs to be finished off to cover the vent pipe.

I was going to have a matching cover made, I priced it out though and it would cost more than I paid for the vent off of e-bay. *LOL* So to cut back on costs .. I need a new, inventive idea to cover this area. A logical solution would be to build a beadboard soffit above the vent .. I'm not sure how this would look though since my vent cover is very curvy, instead of angular. Also if you look at the top of the vent, there is a two inch lip up there .. would you run the beadboard behind that lip? Or how would you finish it off?

Any thoughts or opinions how to finish off that area ?

Here's a few pics, stuff is just in there right now. Cabs have to be painted white, that's not where the hoosier sits, that's acutally the sink area .. but this will give you an idea of what the area looks like.

Leading back to that area, floor still needs a couple coats of waterlox.

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Comments (13)

reno_fan
15 years ago
Hiya Zip! Is that Daisy I see peeking out from her crate? I posted over on the Conversations side for a progress report when you have a minute. :)

Lovelovelove the hood and the stove. My mom has a stove very similar to that, and it's a TANK. That thing outcooks every other appliance I've ever had. It's amazing.

I personally think a beadboard soffit would be stunning with what you have going on. I would do beadboard and then use trim around the edges to sort of set it off.

I can't wait to see this kitchen!
DLM2000-GW
15 years ago
Do you have more of the trim you used for the crown? I like the beadboard idea but you'll need to finish out the top of that with the same trim as the crown so that it can be coped to meet up with it exactly. Can you picture that? Then I'd use a smaller trim but related in feel to the crown to trim out where the beadboard meets the lip. The beadboard should sit in from the lip and the trim should have a dado on the back to slip just over the lip. Again - can you picture that? Then you'll need corner trim to finish out the corners but that should be small and simple, not decorative.

The other possibility is take a walk through HD, Lowes, small local lumberyards and look at materials there. You just might get an idea of something to make. I'm picturing the same kind of box you'd make with the beadboard, trimmed out in the same way but use a different material. Zinc and tin are easily formed. You could even do something interesting up the side corners with old upholstery tacks. Or you could use one of the really cool metallic formica type products. Wilsonart has a gorgeous one called Crystaline Onyx. You've got this vintage vibe going on but the hood kind of straddles that 'is it vintage or is it modern' line so continuing the metallic up the wall would be very cool, IMO.
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The duct size is determined by the manufacturer of the specific unit you select but it is likely to be 8" round which will fit in a 12" dropped ceiling or soffit. A round duct is cheaper and more efficient but in such a short run you could use a rectangular duct to raise the soffit/ceiling a bit. The duct could rise vertically in cabinets and then run horizontally to the outside wall. Your kitchen designer can easily accommodate that standard detail. I've never seen a range exhaust duct installed in a wall. I can think of no reason for a remote blower unless the sound of the fan at the highest speed (rarely used except when something is burned) is seriously objectionable. Most people run these fans at the lower speeds to reduce odors in other parts of the house. In my experience a remote fan is common in a commercial kitchen but very rare in a residential kitchen. If you are going to use a fan larger than 400 CFM, you may have to provide an automatic make-up air system. that would only be worth it if you have a very large, high capacity, semi-pro gas range or the room is unusually large. I would not terminate an exhaust at a roof if I could possibly do it at an exterior wall. It's not a matter of efficiency but avoiding roof leaks and snow & ice in northern climates. I try hard to avoid all unnecessary penetrations in a roof because wall penetrations are easier to waterproof. I would do option C because it puts the termination away from windows and on a less important facade. Also, the ceilings/soffits can be easily built at 8 ft. from the floor and there would only be one 90 degree bend, and it might simplify the cabinet design. Be sure to get rid of the attic access hatch in the ceiling of the closet. You wouldn't be able to use it anyway and it is contrary to building code requirements.
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Welcome Jennifer! Could you please post a sketch of the entire floor? It helps to see how the Kitchen & Dining Room relate to the entire home as well as shows us how traffic flows in, around, and through the Kitchen & Dining Room. I also have a few more questions.... Do you plan to leave the table in the Kitchen space (b/w the Family Room and Kitchen)? If keeping the table, do you really need more seating in the Kitchen? They'd be on top of each other. You might be better off just adding a table in the Playroom/Dining Room -- use that one for meals and keep the Kitchen table for homework, etc. You might make the table in the Kitchen into an island so you get more storage. Do you have a pantry elsewhere? Can the exterior door (6'8") in the Kitchen be moved? In addition to Garage access, does the 31" doorway lead to a Mudroom, Laundry Room, etc.? Where does the 29" door lead? Directly into a Bathroom? Or, a hall that also has a door to the Bathroom Where is your front entry? What is the material of your exterior? Brick? Siding? Other? Is the Family Room at the same level as the Kitchen? (I.e., not sunken) What is the room "above" the current Dining Room? (It's accessed via the 122" archway) How high off the floor are the windows in the bay? How deep is the bay? In your drawing, it appears to be 24", but I wanted to verify. What appliances and their sizes are you planning? I assume a 24" DW. Refrigerator? (36" is standard for most) Counter-depth or standard-depth refrigerator? Range/stove or cooktop? (30" is standard for both) Hood? (6" wider than the range/stove/cooktop is standard) Other? Right now, the main constraints I see are: The door in the Kitchen -- it can be tricky trying to put something permanent (e.g., island) that blocks access to the door in that space. Could the door be moved to the Dining Room, maybe where the bay window is now? Could it be moved to the Family Room (probably the better of the two locations)? Basement stairs, primarily b/c they limit the depth of your Kitchen. For an island with seating you need more depth than you have right now. Bay Window...it's too deep to put anything in front of it and the walls on either side are too shallow to put in counters...that really eliminates moving the Kitchen into that space without significant $$$. Regarding merging the Dining Room with the Kitchen...Do you have another room that can function as a Dining Room close by (other than the Kitchen)? Just putting an island in the DR and leaving the Kitchen in the other room is really not advised as the island would have no real access to the Kitchen and the necessary fixtures and appliances. All you'd really be doing is replacing a (future) table with an island. A table is much more flexible and much more comfortable to eat it. Recommendations... Convert the Playroom to a Dining Room and start eating your meals there (see below for how we did it) Move the exterior door to the Family Room (or Dining Room) Change out the exterior door for a window that matches the other window (48") and 36" off the finished floor (i.e., a counter-height window) (Optionally, it could be a 60"W window) If within budget, make the other window 36" off the finished floor as well Expand the Kitchen into the entire space Add an island in the deeper part Put in a shallow pantry (either built-in or shallow cabinets; built-in is much cheaper) along the wall with the stairs. I think the above would give you everything you need as well as want. See below for the result of the above recommendations. Note the Cleanup Zone and Dish Storage are next to the Dining Room, making it easier to clear or set the table without getting in the way of someone working in the Kitchen. There are two Prep Zones with direct access to water -- a KEY component to a functional/successful Prep Zone. The primary one is in the island and a secondary is b/w the cleanup sink and range. There are other areas that can be used for prepping, if needed (e.g., during a party). Nice separation of primary work zones in general so multiple people can be working in the Kitchen at the same time without getting in each other's way. There is plenty of storage in both cabinets as well as the Pantry. The Pantry is a "reach-in" pantry and is 105" wide (8'9"). It has plenty of room for food as well as small appliances. The island seats 5. The long side has an 18"D overhang to not only give you plenty of leg room but to also provide plenty of space for homework and other projects while meal prep is going on. . How we did it... We did exactly what you did...we used the DR as a Playroom until our children grew out of it. We had a tiny eat-in Kitchen space that we grew out of at the same time. We converted the Playroom to a Dining Room and then redid our Kitchen as a non-eat-in Kitchen (we had a tiny bay area in the middle of the Kitchen). We took down most of the wall b/w the two rooms and put in a peninsula b/w them for some separation. The Dining Room became a more formal Kitchen table/less formal Dining Room table -- in between. It was probably the best thing we did. It allowed us to have a place to eat without having dirty dishes from meal prep, etc., in our faces while eating and provided our children with a bit more formality. Interestingly, their table manners improved when we started eating in the DR. Our Kitchen is similar in depth to yours (11') and while I tried very hard to shoehorn in an island, I eventually realized (with the help of folks here) that my Kitchen could not support an island...thus the peninsula was born. I ended up with a shallow "U" shaped Kitchen with counters on both sides of the Kitchen. 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dilly_dally
15 years ago
Somehow I do not think beadboad is the best look to be above the stove. The stove is a midcentury design and beadboard is so 1800's IMHO.

I know you like to do an eclectic mix and your other rooms look georgeous. What general direction is the kitchen leaning to? 1940's? 1950's? 1800's? Or just a totally eclectic look?

With the contemporay cabinets painted white as you say you are going to do, and the vintage stove, I would do something more quirky with the area above the stove.

Have you checked out the FormicaÂ® Deco MetalÂ Laminate? Something like 5399 Graphite Spin or 5398 Aluminum Spin, looks light and airy, and could fit a vintage kitchen. The Graphite/Aluminum Spin has a pattern that is not symetrical so it would not look industrial with the vent hood added. It comes in other tones and there are other Deco Metal Laminates Series that may work well, adding a festive, flirty look to the kitchen.

What about just making the area smooth and paint it with a quirky design like big red polka dots, on a white back ground? You know, something crazy unexpected, for the kitchen. Something that you would create. Your own design/pattern.

Here is a link that might be useful: Graphite Spin and More
teacats
15 years ago
How about that industrial-old-diner-style silver stainless steel metal that was used in the old diners?? Remember the style? If you could contact someone that does steel work in your area -- and get them to make a "chimmney" over the duct -- and then create rounded "bands" of stainless steel over the vertical edges.

Hmmmmmm ..... wonder if there are any photos in the HGTV program website for "Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives"?????

Here's a photo tour of some old diners around the U.S. -- hope you can "see" some of the details in the steelwork -- those are the ones that I am thinking of!

Jan

Here is a link that might be useful: Diner photos -- stainless steel beauties!
teacats
15 years ago
Here's some example of decorative stainless steel sheeting -- would love to see a backsplash in these!

Jan

Here is a link that might be useful: Decorative stainless steel sheeting
magothyrivergirl
15 years ago
Your house is looking awesome! I don't really care for the bead board idea above the vent. What material are you using above the windows?
I think taking the subway tile up to the ceiling creating a chimney effect would keep from introducing another material and let that vent shine. The crown would be cut around the chimney box for continuity along the ceiling. Make sure you continue the grout lines as if the vent is sitting on top of the subway tile.
zipdee
Original Author
15 years ago
Renofan, that is Daisy dog in the crate. I'll check over on conversations, it's been so busy around here I haven't had much computer time lately, I'm very sorry I didn't answer before now!

Thanks so much for all of the terrific ideas so far! You guys are giving me tons to think about. The body part of the hood is a satin finished stainless, the egdes are mirror finish stainless.

As far as age or era of the kitchen, there really isn't one, it's just a collected over time, what makes me happy look. The stove is from 1948, I've had it in storage for over two years waiting for the new kitchen, the hoosier is dated 1939, the beadboard while not original belongs in the house. Our home ( circa 1910) at one point was totally clad in beadboard on the inside, we found all sorts of pieces of it buried in the walls as we've been renovating, this was fairly common in older southern homes.

I'm not really going for a era though as much as a feel .. happy, eclectic, cottage, unexpected, a blend of new and old. I know a lot of people like to recreate their kitchen to the time their house was built. I kind of look at it as houses evolve over time, things get replaced and houses aquire a collected over time look.
les917
15 years ago
What about constructing it out of metal, then taking it to a body shop and having an white enamel finish put on to match the finish on the stove?

I don't see doing the beadboard up there - I think it will look out of place, and will fight the subway tiles.

The other solution would be to stain wood to match the cabinets, and do a shaker panel construction in the same style as the cabinets as well.
zipdee
Original Author
15 years ago
Les, my DH suggested the same thing, that he make a shaker panel to go above the hood and we paint it white to match the cabinets.

I think the largest problem I'm having with this is I'm deviating from my original plan. When I designed the kitchen in my head, I planned to use a chimney built to go with the hood exactly. So it would kind of just blend in, instead of pop out, since I have so many other things going on in the kitchen. I can't really seem to wrap my head around how anything else will look.

Here's a picture I have saved that shows how the subway tiles will go. just instead of planking on the walls over and around the windows, we'll have beadboard.
zipdee
Original Author
15 years ago
Here's a picture I found of the hood hung, someone it looks like had a duct cover fabricated for it. The connector piece looks to be copper, but if you mentally delete that you can see what it would look like with a matching duct cover. Unfortunately I can't find any other pics of it hung at all.
johnatemp
15 years ago
Zipdee,
Your kit is going to be amazing!
I really like the last pic with the metal covering the vent.
Do you know anyone in sheet metal? They do this....at big restaurants, casinos, hotels for venting. I would go find a sheet metal worker!!

Smiles:)
zipdee
Original Author
15 years ago
Thanks Johnatemp!

I'm going to try to find someone locally that works with metal to price this out, like you suggested. It would be a lot easier if the hood was just regular stainless, rather than the two finishes I think. When I priced this out with the retailor of the hood the cost was way to pricey, but retail the hood is way pricey too .. I really lucked into a bargain with it off e-bay.

For right now I guess when we get to that part we'll just hang it and vent it. Hopefully I can get a matching duct cover made, but if not I think it will be a lot easier to come up with a plan with it in place so I have a visual to work from.
johnatemp
15 years ago
Zipdee,
That is great you got a bargain!!
I also wanted to mention quickly - that you can always do powdercoating to match the finish if you can't find the same metal. Powdercoating is amazing. My DH (in car business) will take nasty old rims & have them powdercoated & they will look brand new. They have a huge amount of colors, too.

Smiles:)

Looking for creative ideas on how to finish out hood vent.

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Looking for creative ideas on how to finish out hood vent.

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