I know that this tread is a bit old, but thought I would toss in some input. Simplyjeff is right on. Sinuous is NOT a quality compromise. My family has been in the furniture business for over 40 years and we have had major accounts with all types of suppliers especially those in foam and coils. I have actually toured a coil factory in NC that makes a "fake" 8 way hand tie coil simply because people ask for it, but the truth is that coils are good enough now that they don't need to be tied. Here is the long and short of it. Some people only carry lines with 8 way hand ties, that is fine, but they will only promote that as "The" way to make furniture. It is like using a rotary telephone when you have a cell phone in your pocket. It will work, won't drop a call, but when it comes down to it, it basically does the same thing. The major issue with sinuous is how it is installed. If it is installed correctly, i.e. the number of coils per sq in, the gauge and secured then it will not fail. There is a reason that some call it "No Sag." Because it will not sag. When it comes down to comfort a lot of that has to do with the density and IFD of the foam that you are selecting for your core/wrap of your cushions. One person stated above that quality=weight, but then mentioned MDF wood. Quality and MDF should never be in the same sentence when it comes to furniture. Whether it be kiln dried or air dried woods, hardwood is the best way to go when constructing a frame. Some companies use pressed wood to cut cost and still charge you 3k for a chair because they have a brand name and sell through retailers who all need to make a markup on each piece to make it worth their time. We use sinuous in almost all of our seating applications, so I may be the other side of the bias, however the in 40 years we have been in business, the number of issues we have with seat failures is basically less than 1%. Tankertoad, I saw that you were talking about foam density, 2.0 is a great density, but also check the IFD which is the amount of weight it takes to compress typically 25% of the capacity of the foam, sometimes they give you the 75% number as well. The quality of foam is just as more important as deciding whether 8 way or sinuous is the way to go. General rule of thumb 1.8 and above on density in sufficient and over 30 IFD is typical for residential use. 10/90 down is great if down is your thing, 5/95 down is also fine if that is what you are looking for. Down cushions and back pillows are what they are. They are going to be soft and have a great feel, but they will need fluffing from time to time. You will lose fill capacity much quicker with down than you will with a softer density foam wrap over time but this is really a preference thing. We can achieve the same crowing and appearance with foam as with down, and it will last longer. Typically high end foam only will shrink less than 5% over 10 years. Overview, you asked the right questions. There is no sense covering a "bad" frame in expensive fabric. It is like putting lipstick on a pig. Still a pig. But as far as Sinuous vs 8 Way, both work, it is more of a feel thing and honestly if you are feeling those coils then the foam selection is incorrect. Either way you should never "bottom out" in either. You should never feel the bottom of your seat. Coils will wear out faster than sinuous. It is a spring and springs wear. That is a fact! When it comes to selecting down, again a preference thing, just make sure that you realize that it will need some routine upkeep, but that in a standard 3 cushion maybe 86" length sofa with typical seat depths you are looking at a 1k to 1500 upgrade at retail costs. But if you like chardonnay then drink chardonnay. This is your choice. The main reason that we choose to use sinuous is because of consistency. You get a much more consistent seat surface over the span of your sofa, especially if you are looking at a matching loveseat or chair. If you use the same gauge and same number over same area you get the same seat. This may be harder to achieve with 8 way as the number of coils may need to be reduce or a smaller gauge may need to be used in order to "fit" the drop in unit in the seat deck. I hope that this information helps, maybe for future furniture selection. Remember the questions you asked are the right ones and need to be answered when you are looking at selecting your furniture. When it comes to warranties, I always remember "Tommy Boy" the movie. "Hey, if you want me to take a dump in a box and mark it guaranteed, I will. I got spare time. But for now, for your customer's sake, for your daughter's sake, ya might wanna think about buying a quality product from me." My Best

After my furniture fiasco with Stanely Manufacturing in which I was shocked that my furniture arrived so damaged and mismatched in color, and after reading this post and many other posts where companies are now producing their products in China, I will never buy furniture made in China again. Thank you for the warning. Sorry about learning the hard way like I did. I ended up buying solid Maple wood furniture from Durham that only costs a litte bit more since I added an Armoire. I was amazed that the prices were not that different and the Durham Furniture was quality made in Canada. Also I had a great experience with the Flemington Department Store in NJ. I want to not be known for just complaining and have learned to give praise where praise is due but warn others when there are problems to help others like they have helped me.

amcofar/wodka: Appreciate your input about the plantation shutters. I do have bronze panels on order for the dining room. The windows won't look so barren when they arrive. DH is the one suggesting shutters and I guess they will look fine but somehow I am concerned having them in both rooms but know they won't be right in only one of them. amcofar: The server cabinet in the LR window is 16" wider than the cabinet pictured between the window and sofa. I did try it but it looked crowded, and a chair really restricts access. Appreciate your thoughts about matching chairs. I've looked at some with open, black distressed arms and legs, upholstered backs and seats (linked below). I may give in and order them. By the time they arrive the room might already look dated LOL. tracey_b: I thought I might miss the wallpaper - even considered repapering the same walls - but glad I didn't. We purchased the paintings of the angels in Miami several years ago. Was a Cuban artist. We thought a "stained glass" effect in that high space might be interesting. The artists' name may be on the back but I have no way to remove to them to check. DH used scaffolding to hang them - very heavy. As to the wet edge, DH isn't traditional. He cuts the corners and ceiling either first or last. He began rolling at the top and reached down but did not fully cover at his end point. Then he was able to work from the floor using an extension overpainting the partially covered area and working to the bottom. His edge was no longer wet when this happened. Everything is 2 coated and there is no indication of this break. He was using a scaffolding to work at the top of the foyer. He also has a Little Giant type of ladder he purchased for this project. Thank you again to everyone for your comments and questions.

Fantastic!!! You have done what I am just beginning to think about doing!I was surfing CL last night looking at wing chairs to slipcover with linen like fabric like you! .( I may have found a slipcovered Mitchell Gold sofa for 250) no wing chairs yet.But just thinking about it,not sure I can pull it off but your photos show I am on right track You have amazing talent here- not everyone can do what you have done- as simple as it may be to you to do! Gorgeous gorgeous work! thanks for the inspiration.Sue