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Home Decorating

Help with baseboard and shoe stain!

15 years ago

Hi, have to ask advice in this same line. Built last summer, have clear pine baseboard and trim I've been finishing (some natural, some with a touch of Minwax Honey Maple gel where window jambs were turning dark with conditioner, sill was light so touched with honey to blend in). Here's the problem - installing Brazilian Cherry in dining room on Friday, open to foyer (dark green tile) and stairs (oak tread with linseed oil/beeswax, unfinished pine risers). What do I do with trim and baseboards (1 long wall from dining to front door) to make it look good with cherry floors (will darken with age) and oak stairs/furniture? I I bought some colonial stop that's not too high for my 3 1/4" colonial base, figured I'd use that as shoe. But what color do I stain it? Cherry is too dark, Antique Maple too orange - would just 2 coats of Honey Maple be OK, or is 3 species/colors of wood in 1 room too much? Golden Oak looks horrible on pine, Honey Maple was the best I could find to go with my oak kitchen cabinets. Here's a pic of Honey Maple with the cherry. Thanks!

Here is a link that might be useful: base+floor

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Comments (9)

2ajsmama
Original Author
15 years ago
Anybody???? I have to start staining soon if we're going to put this up on Friday! HELP!!!
kareen
15 years ago
I just checked out your photo and from my monitor it looks like they do not fight each other and I actually like them but then again I have natural oak floors and red mahogany
woodwork. I would say go with what you love .
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Truthfully, that cat door was a source of amusement for all the trades that worked on it. I'll never forget the great, hulking foreman of the drywall crew making it his own personal responsibility to properly mud the bullnose edges of what he smilingly described as the "little kitty-cat door". The finish carpenter - bless his heart - took the time to painstakingly route the custom arch out of a piece of MDF and fit the base and shoe to it. The painters treated it with the same care and detail as every other bit of trim - giggling all the while. The space inside is not large - only a square foot or so - so the vacuum wand works dandy. There is another proper catflap set 90 degrees to the decorative doorway that then goes into a small 'catroom' where I can keep the food dishes and dirtbox. Doing the doorway in the wall like that was much easier and cleaner than trying to put the catflap in the 'people' door. As for the builder - since I was the designer/owner/GC/foreman/gofer and chief ditch-digger I pretty much got what I wanted - eventually.
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In another thread there has been quite the controversy about this very issue: How to have the wall tile meet the floor tile. There are really only two options (wood not being one of them): cove (sanitary) tile versus just caulking the joint between the floor and wall. Cove moulding is generally more commercial looking but by the nature of its construction would be easier to clean (just like a coved backsplash is easier to clean than that 90 degree joint between countertop and wall). However, your choices will most likely be limited as not all tile collection include a cove piece. It's just not used all that often. Experts suggest that if you simply meet the wall tile to the floor tile, that joint must be caulked. For more information on that method, ask the tile expert here on the forum, Bill Vincent. That is his preferred method. I am doing this very thing in our laundry room in a few months and I have still not decided what I want to do. If it is cove, that piece will be installed first and then the floor and wall tile abutted to it (no cove on top of any other tile). If I find a tile I cannot live without, however, I'll choose Bill's preferred method and have the installer caulk that seam. In any event, I'll ask my installer to make sure the floor and wall are watertight as there is no guarantee my washer one day won't leak.
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Thanks everyone! michiganrachel - -Hmmm, vacuum scuffs are virtually guaranteed, but I do like the look...I'll have to check whether magic sponges take those off. rmkitchen & dianalo, I see your point and probably would have gone for the shoemoldingless look (if I had thought about this detail beforehand!) but I think it's too late for me now that the floors are done b/c the boards are not all perfectly abutting the baseboards- - I don't think it's sloppy, but I guess the GC had shoe molding in mind and must've communicated that to the flooring guys. Luckily I'm ok with the shoe molding.
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I like the molding in the picture because its modern so it goes well so if you want a more traditional look then yes more detail would help with that otherwise I think the simple square ones are good and actually probably easier to clean. I hate shoe molding and in my own home had them put this little flat rectangular molding like a mini version of the the molding in the picture and it looks good and is thick enough to work as a shoe mold
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2ajsmama
Original Author
15 years ago
Well, it's done - I just stained shoe and short baseboards, Honey Maple is it. May do another coat today. Tomorrow is the long baseboards (only have 1 pair of sawhorses). I'll post pics after the room is done. Thanks
kareen
15 years ago
Looking forward to seeing the finished product.
2ajsmama
Original Author
15 years ago
Not the greatest pictures (too dark). And I need to get the outlet covers and sconces back up (left them off after painting since I knew I'd have to touch up after floor was installed). But I love my new floor in a rectangular spiral pattern! I think the Honey Maple pine baseboard looks nice with it too - we'll see after the cherry darkens if I still like it. Shoe didn't take stain as well, some is too light but installer said poly will amber a bit more, should mellow out.

Here is a link that might be useful: Dining room floor
2ajsmama
Original Author
15 years ago
Here's a better picture. I also have to get window trim stained and up. Next project - stair risers and railing!

Here is a link that might be useful: Dining room window wall
2ajsmama
Original Author
15 years ago
How do you insert pictures in the post?
Vicki
15 years ago
Don't worry about posting pics in the post. I felt lucky when I finally figured out how to post pictures the way you are doing it. I could see from the get go I was never going to get them posted directly in the post. I would love to know, too, how it is done. Anyway, I think your room looks great. Thanks for sending the updates. I'm glad to see there are still people staining instead of painting everything white.
2ajsmama
Original Author
15 years ago
Thanks - I'll have to look into Photobucket since that's what it seems everyone uses. I was inspired by staircase gallery - I have straight up-and-down staircase, nothing dramatic and I already poly's the dining room side of the stringer and the bottom riser. But what do you think about dark stained stencil or applique (cherry brown to match dining room floor) on the risers in a pattern to match my foyer tile? Sort of a scrolling checkmark with a diamond in the middle?

Here is a link that might be useful: tile pattern

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