The nasty asbestos is "friable" (crumbles to dust), or airborne from sanding. Removing carpet over 1960s vinyl tile is NOT hazardous unless you sand the tiles off and inhale the dust. You can pop the tiles off with a tile scraper. that may have been at the height of the asbestos paranoia. Several things could go over the tile after you yank the carpet, as long as the tile is not coming loose ... any floating wood floor, a good sheet flooring, or even more carpet. Just make sure it's meant for installation on a slab in a basement.

nutsaboutplants Where do you find these gems, Jim?! Love your choice of pics and captions. "Better to see you with" stands out. ********************************* Actually, this one came from the previously mentioned Cote De Tx blog. Others I find on Tumblr or just googling ETA - I love that she marches to the tune of her own drummer.... Another view of OP room

Bumblebeez SC Zone 7 I like layers but the stuff here seems poor quality. ********************************************* ??????????????????? With Coromandel screen, Bergere chairs, Louis-ish daybed, custom lamps, oils, silks, porcelains, etc,?

PW - Thanks for the kind words! also PPE - I received your recent message. I've been very busy with spring pruning/ repotting, which is why I haven't yet expressed my gratitude, but I will. Thank you - I was moved! Is there any downside to starting the layer via ringing method up to a year before I plan to prune + pot the propagule? There is no question things will move along much faster if the layering takes place with the plant outdoors, but you can start the layer a month or so before you expect to move it outdoors, which can be done A) when nights are reliably above 55*F, or B) by moving the plant in and out as temperatures allow (should be above 55*). Is it okay to keep it on over the winter? It depends on where the layer is located on the plant. Since you'll be cutting through the phloem tissue, you'll be cutting off flow of photosynthate from all foliage distal to the layer to roots. So, if the layer is on the main stem proximal to all foliage, there is a very good chance that the plant's root system could die; however, if you are layering the main stem distal to other branches on the stem, it wouldn't be a problem. It's best to start preparing for the layer in early to mid-spring and plan on separating the layer in mid to late summer. Faster is better because it decreases the probability of a fungal pathogen gumming up the plumbing before new roots have an opportunity to form a connection to the propagule's existing vasculature. Does layering on the main stem of a plant have any effect on the growth rate above? Yes. How much, depends on what fraction of the flow of photosynthate (food) is being cut off by the layer. If you have 10 branches below the layer on a main stem, it won't have much impact on growth rate. If you are air layering the main stem at a point proximal to all, the effect on growth rate would be greater. In any case, the reduction in growth rate should be temporal; this, because the layer also blocks the polar flow of auxin (it moves from shoots to roots only). With the flow of auxin reduced to almost nil, auxin's inhibitory effect on new lateral branching will be almost entirely eliminated (in apically dominant plants), so foliage on the new branches will start to provide a net return on energy outlay when the first of the new leaves are about 75% mature. Al