I second Ivoire. It is a warm cream that tends to yellow, but not too much. I have Blonde in my dining room and I'm crazy not about it. It doesn't tend to show green in my house. It tends more to orange because that room gets a lot of sun. Whole Wheat probably would have been a better choice for that bright room. But the Ivoire on the same strip as Blonde is not like Blonde at all, IMO. I have Ivoire in my living room which has an eastern exposure and a porch overhang. It really warms up a dark space. I have Bel. Buff as well in a bedroom and it's very nice, but more neutral beige than Ivoire is.

Laurie, I don't know if you have an Ethan Allen store in your area, but there 3 not far from me, and they use Benjamin Moore paint. I sometimes go just to check out the paint colors. I have seen Lenox Tan, Decatur Buff, and Wheeling Neutral, among others. I really liked the Lenox Tan and Decatur Buff and am considering using one of them for an office. They are similar in value, but the Decatur Buff was a little bit warmer with more gold undertones. Sometimes it is hard to see the difference on a paint chip but you can really tell up on the wall. Eathan Allen stores have lots of flood lights which probably affect how the color looks, but you can get an idea what they look like if they have any of those colors in a store near you.

Anyway, I don't know if that one number being off can really make that much difference, but I'm thinking it did. Yes, it can. That's why I'm always preaching that the typical paint/color consumer has no business getting involved with the formulas and colorant listings on the label. This is why "cutting" formulas by a percentage is a ridiculous concept - it sounds so precise, but there's nothing precise about it. And altho people speak to having successfully "cut" formulas, it's intangible, unspecific, and not applicable information beyond their own experience with their specific can(s) of color. Whenever you cross brands, take a chip from one brand and have it matched somewhere else, it's not going to be exactly, perfectly, literally just like the original brew from the original brand. Some colors could qualify as a "spot-on match" and others maybe not so much - this also depends on who ya ask if it's a "match" or not. Some people can see sense "what's off" about a color that's been matched in another brand and other people don't see any difference at all - looks the same to them. Color acuity and tolerances are not one-size-fits-all. If it doesn't take much to satisfy your expectations for wall colors, then that's awesome. If you're a little more picky and color sensitive, then that's awesome too. There's no need to reach for or settle for whatever color is most convenient and easy. You might just have to take a lil more time and work a lil harder but most things worth doing requires effort.

Hate to say it, but I vote for the gut rehab if you can afford it. You would love it if you could pick everything out for yourself and update it. It's easy to splurge a bit on bathrooms because we don't need much in the way of volume of materials. So you could put in a really gorgeous slate floor, for instance. But if this is an "antique" house maybe this looks right for the house and is part of its charm? That's up to you. My inclination is if it's old subway tile it's priceless, so I'd work with it... but this... mmmm... not so much, sorry. If you decide to leave it for now, how about picking up some paint color chips at the store and holding them up to the picture to see how they look to you? Another choice is to beadboard over the wall tile, then redo your floor. You'd probably want to re-tile behind the tub in something neutral. You can also have a tub professionally resurfaced, and a bathroom remodel place can advise about the cost. It's undoubtedly cheaper than a new tub as I've seen them do it on HGTV's "Designed to Sell." You might want to take a photo to the hardware store and ask what they see as your possibilities and approximate costs for each thing. One word of warning... when you dig into old bathrooms there is often rot in the walls and floor from years of water, and mold. Subflooring may need to be replaced as well as wallboard. I'd just expect that. That's an added headache, but it's also a good reason to go for the gut rehab, to make sure it's structurally sound and mold-free. Do you have another bathroom in the house if you need to tear this one down? Whatever you do, please post before and aftef pics for us!