Sounds like a reasonably thought out plan.

I'd run two extension cords if you intend to load it up with heaters. A 1500 watt heater at 120V draws 12.5 Amps, so you don't want two of them on the same cord.

Also, when you run the refrigerator or microwave, unplug a heater. You don't want to risk overloading things. This sort of machine will probably have quite a bit of speed (frequency) change from light load to full load. Motors take a huge surge to get started, and also don't like to start or run at low frequency.

thanks Bill. See I didnt even think of that... one outlet with two 1500 watt heaters will flip the generators breaker. Novice oversight!! I was thinking one cord with power strip could acomodate 2 heaters!!

You see now why I am asking questions!

Another question... is it better to keep the generator gassed up with stabilizer or empty and fill when needed?

Also I am looking for higher quality portable heating devices... I was in the big box stores today and all the stuff looks like sweat shop Chineese crap!! What should I be looking for to protect my family in an emergency???

Get the heaviest extension cords you can by the way. I've seen cheesy "shop cords" melt under heavy loads.

I'd be inclined to keep the fuel in a separate can. You're going to want more than a tank full anyhow. I use the same 5 gallon can for the lawn mower, etc... that way I've not got two year old fuel (stabilized or not). Just make sure she's full when the bad weather is coming. A proper syphon hose (one with a primer so you don't have to suck on it) to steal from your truck tank is also a handy backup.

Buy one of these. It makes things a lot easier when you want to plug in several cords and might balance the load a little better across your set's windings.

I wouldn't be too concerned about spending lots of $$ on a "quality" portable heater. A cheap 1500w "utility heater" from Wal-mart makes just as much heat as one that costs a lot more. The two heaters you have will be as good as any. Those heaters and a TV set plus a couple of lights will be about all the load your generator wants except for very intermittent use.

Regardless of what the decals say, you are better off to limit your load to about 4200w, unless you enjoy buying or repairing generators. Don't go to extremes on shelter either, the set needs air circulation to stay cool. You can probably just put it under the open tailgate with the exhaust pointing to the rear of the truck.

Buy a couple of gallons of good oil and keep it on hand. Check the oil every 4 hours or so, and change it at least as often as the book says. Most portable generators die from either overloading (just because it says 5500 watts doesn't mean it will do that all day long) and/or low oil level/dirty never-changed oil.

Here is a link that might be useful: generator cord

as to gassing it up, we keep ours at work full of gas. when we run them once a month we turn teh gas OFF and then let teh machien die on it's own. this gets all gas out of the carb. keeps the carb from varnishing if you forget to run it for a while.

as far as using the tailgate or a tarp to cover it, this is fine IF there is proper clearance. too close and heat from teh exhaust will light the tarp or scar the finish on the truck! best thing i can say is to run it and see what the temps feel like.

get good cords as advised. if you want to run only one in, get some 12/3 cable, put a male plug on the end to fit your generator's 240V outlet. on teh other end install a quad box with 2 120v duplex outlets, one on each hot with a shared neutral. this will allow you to run 1 cord in, then once inside run devices off each leg. i actually set mine up with 2 quads, 1 box on each leg. this gives me 8 plugs, so i run what i need. still workign on getting a manual transfer switch so i can get rid of the cords all together.

BTW, prior to getting the generator we had probably 10 outages a year. in the almost 2 years since, we have had 2! and neither of them lasted more than an hour.

Where do you get boxes that are legal to put on the end of a cord?

The quad boxes in the consumer stores are listed to be mounted to a stud in a wall, and have knockouts. For both of these reasons I've been told it is against NEC to use them hanging free on a cord as a homemade extension cord.

And if you you use them in connection with a business, you are in for OSHA trouble. Several years ago my employer went around and confiscated all of them when OSHA started an enforcement drive.

Here is one source for boxes to accept cords.

Here is a link that might be useful: boxes, cords etc.

Hmm, $40 for just the box. Now we know why people keep using the ones from the home improvement store even though they aren't supposed to.

If you have a Grainger account here is a better way.

Here is a link that might be useful: box with cord relief

Thanks for the good information. Esp. about not pushing it to maximum wattage.

In regards to oil. I never really thought twice about it with my vehicle but in the manual it recomends briggs stratton oil or "other high quality detergent oils if classified for SF,SG,SH,SJ or higher".

So can I just use the same Valvoline sae 10w30 and sae 5w30 I use in my vehicle that I keep stocked in the garage?

Manual recomends 10w30 and 5w30 but it doesnt say anything about SAE, it mentions SAE 30, which I dont know if thats the same. Never thought twice about it until reading the manual?

Bill, at work we have manual switches with twist lock cords for generator feed. we use the cords with boxes for other things.

our local electric supply house had some boxes similar to the second ones listed above that are cord rated for about 5-10.00 a box a few years back. we got several of them and use them all teh time when we need several feeds to an area. OSHA does not come to us, as we are a small company and all family, but the local fire inspector loves them. he actually asked where i got them so he could get some for his house.

If your oil is rated SF or higher, it is OK. It will have the rating on the container someplace. The "SAE" portion of the oil specification is often dropped- in other words SAE 10w30 is same as 10w30.

You won't find oil rated SF or lower anymore. SAE has obsoleted those designation. All consumer Valvoline is rated SL / SM which can be used everywhere oil of that viscosity is approved. There are no higher S (service) ratings right now.

Re-think the electric heaters and go with Kerosene. Save the watts for something else that you need to run.

Thanks for the oil info.

How do I use my multimeter to take pertinent measurements when running the generator? And what should I check?

Also, thanks for the Kerosene tip but I am thinking venting is the issue there. As I describe the electric heaters (radiant and oil filled) at 1500watts a piece, with one or two running... can I expect a moderate amount of comfort? Avoid frozen pipes? etc?

I live in a 1600 sf. space. Fireplace for a secondary source is available.

Your 3000w of heat isn't going to do much with a 1600 sf area, you might be able to eventually get 5 or 6 degrees above the outside temperature. The only practical way to use electricity to heat with your size gen-set is to close off a smaller area and "camp out" there with your heater, TV and microwave until the power is restored.

Leave the water taps running slightly to prevent pipe freezing. A couple of kerosene heaters and a CO alarm near each one might be a viable way to provide temporary heat for the entire area, if your fireplace won't do.

Here is a link that might be useful: heating requirement calculator

if you have a FP, get a blower insert or woodstove with a heat reclaimer. either one will keep at least that room warm and allow you to use a small heater in other rooms. the blowers don't pull much power, so no real load on eh genny.

Id like to add to the great solid advice these guys have given...instead of a voltmeter, you'd be better off with a meter that checks hertz and volts. One of the most damaging things a generator can do to some of your appliances is drop too far below or go to far above 60hz. Even though everything is preset from the factory and governed, you will need to make adjustments sooner or later. Ok guys don't make fun...you can buy a digital meter that does this from Harbor freight for about 25-30 bucks. For lights and heaters, not an issue...tv, refrigerator..it is an issue.

I think kerosene or similar heaters are too dangerous, there have been a number of winter deaths and fires here in canada this winter and at least some of them were related to kero heaters. Propane would be marginally safer but you need adequate air supply....but the conundrum of the size of house and adequate heat is one to look at. I think maybe rely on the fireplace more, and consider powering your furnace blower if you can, if not just for air circulation you may find your gas supply is ok when the electric is out (assuming you're using natural gas) so that could be an option, there is probably a 'semi-legal' way you can turn your furnace supply line into something with a plug assuming your generator can cope with it....something to think about perhaps.

Interesting points about home made power boards, almost all the electricians I work alongside have made such things out of construction type metal boxes, although things here in the wild west of British Columbia are a little fast and loose, although all these electricians seem to follow the BC electrical code closely (not sure what would cover this instance) and I was going to make my own to use with some heavy industrial rubber cable I have. I would think the metal box hardiness would be an advantage over plastic.

If your tailgate isn't adequate protection for the genny, and remember many are made to be out in the weather somewhat anyway, a piece of plywood cantilevered out from the tailgate would be safer, tarps can melt and burn.

Interesting points regarding the electrical boxes being used 'against code' - I guess there are plastic ones you could use, although I work in a building/electric related trade and the electricians and builders I work alongside almost universally use