The moral of this story is⦠If anyone does decide to do a drawer cell phone port please follow these guidelines. Check out the TR strips from Task Lighting the TR strip meets 2008 NEC. They have a few colors and sizes, you can also order special sizes. . ⢠Power source MUST be a 20 amp branch circuit protected by a GFCI at the panel or GFCI prior to the connection at APS-" TR Series. ⢠All wiring must meet NEC and local codes. The Angle Power Strip -" Tamper Resistant Series (APS-TR Series) must be installed by a licensed electrician. ⢠Use knockout holes for 120v wire entrance. Use listed Romex connectors provided for 120v electrical connections. ⢠Use tool provided to pry cover open for wiring. (Using other devices may damage the aluminum cover.) ⢠Field cutting voids warranty. Also, since itâÂÂs in the kitchen as an extra precaution I would suggest a thick-ish rubber coated electric cable be used. This type of line is flexi enough to move back and forth with the drawer but is heavy enough that it stays against the back of the cabinet. If you do not make an entry for your line near a drawer slide you will not have any problems. IâÂÂm not sure why people would do that anyway. If you are still unsure I think once you actually see and feel the waterproof cable you will be confident in your project. This post was edited by jterrilynn on Sat, May 18, 13 at 23:20

Based on what I can see from the spec sheets it would appear that the power supply is intended to be in an enclosure. There are any number of electronic suppliers that should be able to supply you with an aluminum box that you can mount the power supply in. The strain relief for the power supply cord should be a type matched to the cord used - ie, don't use a NM-B(romex) clamp on a SO type cord. Once inside the enclosure, the connections between the power cord and the power supply can be made with wire nuts. Not evident from the data sheets is any info regarding ventilation, if any, required. I think a phone call is in order to see what clearances would be required for an enclosure and if venting is required so overheating isn't an issue. The enclosure would need to be grounded but since the power supply isn't metal and doesn't have a place to attach a ground it shouldn't be an issue. The product line appears intended for folks who would be familiar with requirements for lighted showcases and it would serve you well to dig for all the info you can when you talk to the manufacturer

The problem with remote power for LV lighting is the requirement to use "approved methods" for concealed wiring (like anything in the structure). This leads to the use of relatively large cables, since the most common methods use nothing smaller than #14 wire. There are some allowances for LV wiring, but it is VERY power limited (like thermostats and doorbells). High power LV lighting (like that needed for LV lighting) is NOT low power. It is actually easier in many cases to use multiple small power supplies to drive LV lights. This allows the concealed wiring to be 120 VAC wiring (and there are multiple type allowed) while the LV wiring is NOT concealed in the structure (it is often on the bottom of the cabinets). This also greatly reduces the voltage drop in the LV wiring. It is a real issue when even a 10 W lights is puling 0.83 amps @ 12 V, and a 20 W is 1.7 amps. The low voltage also makes even minor drops have a large affect on brightness and color.

Now I had to go look up exactly what that cord is: 25' Black Power supply lead for LED connection of 12380Bk to 12382BK. CL2 jacket suitable for run behind walls (please check local electrical code for compliance) U.S. Patent Pending Except ours is 10', not 25'. This is one of the few parts of this job we hired out because because between the two of us we really don't have the expertise to do it well and safely. It wasn't just the undercab lights, we also added in 7 recessed lights, moved the ceiling fan, moved outlets/switches and added outlets/switches. I'm big on DIY, but not that big.