First check the circuit breaker the charger is on, and check the GFIC buttons if you have one on that line. If you don't have the charger on a GFIC outlet, you might want to consider installing one, since they can be helpful if lightning is a frequent problem. You can also ask your local power company to install a lightning arrestor on your incoming line, sometimes they're free, sometimes not. If your charger has a meter, unplug it and disconnect both the fence wire and ground. Plug the charger back in, and if the needle goes to the top of the meter, the problem is in the fenceline itself. If the needle doesn't go up, the problem is in the charger. If you don't have a meter, you can test it by shorting it with an insulated screwdriver if you're brave. Touch the hot (fence) terminal with the base of the screwdriver near the handle, and slowly bring the tip near the ground terminal. At some point less than 1/4" away, a spark should jump the gap. If it does, the problem is in the fenceline, if not, it's the charger. Parmak chargers have both lightning arrestors and fuses built in, and if they're melted down, they can be replaced at a reasonable cost. Check your manual to see if you have anything like that. A strike on your power line could be expected to damage other household appliances too, and if that didn't happen, the strike may have been on the fence itself. In that case, you'd still look for melted components inside the case. The cost to repair that might be prohibitive. Lightning arrestors for fencelines can be purchased, but I don't know how much protection they really offer for a direct hit like that. I had no more problems with fried chargers (or computers or freezers) after the power company put an arrestor on the nearest transformer.

Thanks everyone! Here is one of the layouts, it may be hard to see. The sink cabinet bump out is 3 inches (legs are three inches also). The sink bumps out an additional 1 inch. From the sink cabinet to the island is 39 inches. So in other spots that aisle is 42 inches. The other side of the island has a 49 inch aisle. Originally the plans showed the 49 inch side 1.5 inches wider. Once they laid out the island I had major misgivings and I made them move the plumbing over 1.5 inches towards the sink line of cabinets- bc the 47.5 inch aisle seemed way too narrow with the door there and the fact its a major walk through. I am happy with the dimensions now. Even with my husband and 2 small kids (3rd due soon!) milling around in the kitchen it doesn't feel cramped. It feels much bigger than our old kitchen, very functional. I did 39 inch uppers and then 4 or 5 inches of crown molding. I also have 8 foot ceilings. 36 is pretty short, we had that before with like 9-12 inch soffits. As for the grout, I was stressed over that like everything else and did briefly considering going with a darker contrasting color- it might not look as bad as you think. I often hate things at first, even when I carefully plan them! The Miracle 511 sealer was well recommended and we havent had any trouble with it. If you still dont like your grout, I have heard of grout lighteners. When I did my grout, I did some test patches with broken tiles before the grouters came and that is how I decided on a color. I think the grout was dry in a day or two- yours sounds like its taking a long time to dry, but I am not an expert. I had unsanded grout I think.

Well, I'll stand out alone but I like #1 or the small ones. I think #2 is a bit too matchy matchy with the wallpaper to me. I think the whiter ones keep you open to more possibilities in the future. I don't know how the small tile will look, but which one is the cheapest? haha

In the end, I went with the Antique Brass doorknobs with all the faucets and cabinet pulls Ventian Bronze. Once all the flooring was in, it felt a bit darker than expected so I pivoted to lighter walls (SW Origami White). I love the variation in metals…just like it feels good to have different contrasting wood tones.