Also check out Environmentallights.com, they get favorable reviews in the lighting forum. I'm using their self driven Maxlite LED bars, which can be direct wire or plug in. They also have several other systems. I have a 12, 24, 54, and 36 section to light and even with a super fancy dimmer (I decided I needed the one that works with a remote) is was only a little over 600. If I picked a more reasonable dimmer and no remove it would have been closer to 500. If you like one of their systems, you can send your plan and they will build your system so you have all the right pieces. This is especially helpful if using a line that needs drivers, etc. **important: if you go with EL sign up for their e-newsletter for a 10% off your order coupon ** Mine should be installed this week. GC really likes the design so far.

"low voltage wiring back to a central transformer." Often a painfully expensive way to do the job. Low voltage requires higher current and low voltage drops in conductors, requiring the use of larger wires. 60 W AC to DC supplies are around $15 each and fit in a single gang box. 120 VAC in one end, 12 VDC out the other. You can cut through the cabinet back, mount a device box flush with the inside of the cabinet back, then use a blank switch-plate on the box. The 12 V lines exit through the bottom side of the box, through the bottom of the cabinet, and then to the nearby lights. Repeat as required. If a single large er transformer fails ALL the lights are out. If a single AC-DC power supply fails all you lose is (up to) 60 W of lights. It works especially well with 20 W pucks. 3 pucks per supply. You can even use another low voltage supply (24 VAC, power limited) with relays to switch the segments. Same sort of scheme as a thermostat, with all the wiring relief these circuits have (and common and inexpensive transformers and relays from the HVAC world). You may need to use as 4x4 box with a single gang plaster ring to fit power supplies and relays.

Concelaed LV wiring must be an 'approved method' and NM would fall into this group. It can also get expensive very quickly since LV lighting uses much higher currents than 120 V lighting, and is very sensitive to voltage drop (dropping a few volts on 120 V does not have nearly the same affect on light output and color as dropping on a 12 V system). It can become a real task to both handle the large conductors and than connect reliably and safely to the individual light conductors. I would encourage you to check out individual smaller supplies that accept 120 V inputs and support 60 W of 12 V load per supply. They are small enough to be mounted on the bottom of cabinets and then the rules for wiring are easier since nothing is concealed in the structure.

WAC is a very good brand. What I have is something used in the sign industry. It is a similar tape that they run inside the large plastic letters for businesses so that the letters are lit. I had a choice of warm or cool bulbs. I can't tell from the WAC site if you have that choice or not. Of course, I didn't like either...cool was too blue and warm was very yellow. So, I bought some of each and alternated the bulbs for a balanced color. Electrician thought I was crazy.