I recently completed a renovation in my basement, where I installed the following recessed LED lights in the ceiling: Lithonia Lighting 6" P Series: http://www.lithonia.com/commercial/6%22+p+series+led+modules.html In two places in the basement, I want to use a "lighted" (pilot light) 3-Way Rocker Switch. It turns out though, that when I use them, the LED's don't turn all the way off. If I use regular light bulbs instead, there are no such no problems. I have now tried using the 15amp rocker switches from both Leviton and Pass & Seymour/Legrand, but same result. I guess because the pilot light on the rocker switch is on, that somehow the LED light continues to use that tiny voltage for itself. Am I missing something? I know that it all works fine if I don't use the lighting / pilot light. However, I would preffer to have it so people dont search for switches in the dark. All advice and input is much appreciated!

When you say that there are those "4 wires coming out of [the] ceiling", are those just the ones that presently "come out", or are they also the only wires in the box? (That is, have you peeked inside the box to see if there are any other wires that aren't "coming out of [your] ceiling"?) If there are other wires in the box, that would be useful to know. My initial take was the same as Normel's--that the outlet was wired to control two things, such as a fan and a light. I still think Normel's "analysis" makes sense, but I'm perplexed that there are apparently two three-way switches (purportedly) involved at different room locations. Am I correct in this interpretation? Did a pair of switches control a light there before you went to swap fixtures? It's possible--though not terribly likely--that a pair of three-way switches used to control a light while only one switch controlled the other function (e.g., fan). If that were the case, and the black wire was the old "fan wire", then wiring the chandelier to the red wire rather than the black might work. (BTW, you need to cap off the unused wire with a wire nut, whichever wire ends up being unused!) What happens when the red is swapped for the black? Can you look at the switch that currently "works" and tell us how it is wired? Not counting any bare ground wire, does it connect with three wires or only two? Colors? Any "history" might help.

From the 2nd switch you only need two conductors, a hot and a neutral, going to the light. The hot will come from the "common" terminal on the switch. No reason to replace the cable, just leave the 3rd wire disconnected. Whomever wired it to begin with probably either had extra 14/3 around, or wanted flexibility, for example to power a fan and a light separately.

When all is said and done, four wires are needed: - One neutral wire to feed the lights and to continue from light to light. This is because each light has neutral connectivity whether the lights are on or off. Let's call this the "neutral jumper". - One wire which is hot only when a combination of the switches results in an "on" condition. If it's hot, the lights are on. If it's cold, the lights are off. Period. Let's call this the "switched hot jumper". - Two wires used for alternative paths between the switches which we'll call "travellers". They are complements in that when one is hot, the other is cold and vice-versa. As long as the circuit is in normal operation, they are never both hot or both cold. [Furthermore, one of the two-way switches has to get a "hot feed"--an incoming wire to the circuit that is always willing and able to feed hot power. That comes from the breaker panel or is tapped off of an unswitched portion of a larger circuit. The other two-way switch has to connect to the "switched hot jumper".] Now it doesn't matter whether the travellers happen to run from light to light. That's irrelevant. They can just as well be pulled through the wall studs or under the floor or through the attic. In fact, they often are, depending on layout and distance. Their only job is to provide alternative paths between two switches. But wherever the wires actually run, the bottom line is this: You need four wires: a neutral which jumpers from light to light and is never switched, a switched hot which jumpers from light to light, and two travellers between the switches such that exactly one is hot at any time and exactly one is cold at any time regardless of whether the lights are on or off. Thus, each of these four wires has a state and function that is different from any other wire's state and function. So, no, if I've understood your question correctly, with ordinary wiring materials (no transporter beams or warp wires!), I think you'd need to use magic of some kind.