brickeye: if you happen to read this, could you please elaborate on the "push-in" type connectors. I've got quite a few 3-gang boxes that will need all the grounds tied together plus have a ground wire to each switch. As of now I was planning to use Buchanan copper crimp sleeves... but if there's an easier approved solution I would love to hear about it. Thanks.

Experience helps in these cases. Often the original installer cuts the wires very short- in violation of the NEC. In very tight places, I sometimes use a Dremel to cut along the side of crimp connector barrel to remove it without shortening the conductors. Suppose that you have 6 grounds and the crimp sleeve or wire nut will accommodate only 4. Combine 3 of the grounds with a pigtail (total 4) and combine the other three with the other end of the pigtail for another 4.

First, you should be aware that normal circuit breakers are NOT listed for backfeeding and can fail quickly (if backfed.) They normally say "load" and "line" on the poles of a normal breaker, the wording is different on a breaker that's been tested and listed for backfeeding. (I've never seen one, myself, they are somewhat rare.) That being said, as I see it, you really only have two choices. (Forget your questions, your in bad territory as your currently set up) ------------------------------------------------- (1) re-wire with 10/3 w/g to a new 240 v inlet box, add a 30a 2-p breaker and a mechanical interlock. The wire will run around $2/ft., say $20, the inlet box should be under $50, the breaker will run $16 and I just bought a Square D interlock at the local jobber for $16. Add $35 for the electrical permit. Around $150 to get legal and safe. ------------------------------------------------- (2) In lieu of that, install a generator interlock box. Re-route the gen input into this box, and choose which circuits you will need (box has 4-120 volt circuits and 1-240 volt circuit (that can be changed to 2 more 120 volts circuits.) Add $35 for the electrical permit. This will run under $300 but may be simpler to install. If your unfamiliar with these boxes, you run the gen input into the box, it has flex conduit to your main panelboard (needs be be located right next to the main panel) and has two colored wires to each existing circuit. You remove the wire to the existing circuit breaker, use a Scotch lock to the wire and the other goes to the breaker. During an outage, you run the generator, then switch each circuit at the gen box over to gen input (provides interlock, preventing backfeeding.) Very safe and simple. ------------------------------------------------- Remember, in ALL cases, you probably need an electrical permit to change the wiring. (1) it may be the law, (2) your homeowners insurance may require it to pay out a claim (they WILL DENY your claim if they find out that you modified the electrical system and did not get a permit. (3) just to have a second pair of professional eyes look over your work and make suggestions to help keep you safe. (4) to offer a future purchaser of your home a guarantee that the work done was safe. True story: The last home I owned, caught fire and their insurance company came after me to collect the $40k. I was able to prove to them that I did NOT do the work and they sued the previous owner (the guy I bought it from) for the loss. It NOT WORTH skipping over the measly $30-$40, cost of a permit just to avoid having to deal with an inspector. If it EVER fails and causes a fire, or God-forbid an electrocution, YOU will be held responsible. This could happen as much as 20-30 years in the future. (And bad karma as well).

Telephone demarc must be at the service entrance with AC electric and any other incoming wire. First, this is required for human safety. Second, the connection of every service to earth must be as short as possible (ie 'less than 3 meters') to provide the only effective surge protection. Every wire inside every incoming cable must have some short connection to the one earthing system. Either a connection made directly (ie cable, AC neutral wire). Or via a protector. But none of that is possible when utilities enter at different locations - not at the service entrance. Well, you can kludge a solution. A utility dmeonstrates what is bad, what must exist, and the kludge solution: http://www.duke-energy.com/indiana-business/products/power-quality/tech-tip-08.asp