Not sure about your code requirements but here's what I would do:

fridge: separate 15A cc't
gas range: don't know, hardly anyone has one in my neck of the woods and have never wired one, consult stove manual
OTR microwave: separate 20A cc't
dishwasher: separate 15 or 20A cc't, check manual for amp requirements
garbage disposal: separate 15 or 20A cc't, again check manual
small appliances countertop: a separate 20A cc't for every 2 duplex receptacles, and these must be GFCI protected within 1.5m of the sink in Canada
kitchen lights: all can be on one separate 15 cc't
pendants in other room: I believe US code says they can't be wired from the kitchen, in Canada they can be

Again, check your local codes for specifics or ask your local electrical inspector over the phone if he'll return your call.

Wow, my kitchen has three duplex 115vac plugs, all on the same 20A, there's another one or two on the walls, near the floor, for vacuum/whatever. Not sure about the dishwasher, may have its own circuit, and the electric range is 220vac, thus on itw own circuit. The above recommendation sounds like a lot to me. Not sure why there is any code requirements beyond having wire size that matches the circuit breaker, and perhaps GFI, not sure I agree with that being required either, but I wasn't asked. If code requires all the circuits mentioned above all I can conclude is the electrical contracting industry must have had something to do with writing the standards (a.k.a code), suppose they dominate NFPA work on this type subject...then the towns/cities just go along as they don't have any expertise to make independent judgement...love the good old days of less government and less regulation.

Yes, our counter-top microwave and toaster are on the same circuit and I do note a change in sound from the microwave if I activate the toaster when the microwave is running, but no problem, no interruption of power or noticeable change in the effectiveness of the two appliances.

"Not sure about the dishwasher, may have its own circuit,"

All you need to do is to have a look at your panel!

Here is what my kitchen will have;

- fridge - dedicated 15 or 20A is normal, but not required
- gas range - can be part of small appliance circuit
- OTR microwave - dedicated 20A circuit
- dishwasher
- garbage disposal - can share same 20A circuit if local codes allow, otherwise two 15A will work

- small appliances (toaster, kettle ...) - minimum of two 20A small appliance circuits required

- 7 recessed LED lights
- 5 undercabinet lights, probably fluorescent
- 2 halogen pendant lights (although technically these will be on the dining room side of the pass-through wall, so not sure if that counts as kitchen) - can all be on the same 15 or 20A lighting circuit

Nice try jerry on the conspiracy theory. You're in your own little world BTW. That's NOT how it is.

In the average new or renovated US kitchen here is what's recommended.
This is slightly beyond code minimum:

-Refer - 15 or 20A dedicated circuit

-Dedicated space micro or Built-in micro/hood - dedicated 20A circuit

-DW/Disp - Share 20A circuit

-Minimum of TWO 20A general small appliance receptacle circuits. These can share the receptacles at the kitchen counter and also in the kitchen, DR, nook, pantry.

-Gas range receptacle - any available. Can be on the counter circuit.

-Range hood (NO micro) - shared on a lighting circuit. CANNOT be on a counter receptacle circuit.

-Lighting - Typically a 15A circuit for lights. Does not have to be dedicated to the kitchen.

"-Range hood (NO micro) - shared on a lighting circuit. CANNOT be on a counter receptacle circuit."

Hood needs a separate circuit.

A "non-micro" typical residential range hood most certainly does NOT need a dedicated circuit. Unless of course the manufacturer's instructions call for it.

See 422.16(B)(4).
It depends on if it is direct wired or cord and plug.

Yes, true, for cord connected hoods.
Thing is 99.999% of "standard" range hoods (only) are hard wired.

Like I said, micro/hoods are a different story.