"Electrical Requirements

120 VAC, 15 Amps
Single Phase (Unit must be on a non-GFI, dedicated outlet)"

from the pre-sales literature, available online. It also shows 36 3/4" to the top of the range with 3" clearance underneath. The installation unstructions, available online from BlueStar, indicate

"Side trims must be at least 11/16 inch
[17.5 mm] above the adjoining counter
top surfaces."

consistent with a nominal install height for a 36" countertop height. The legs, like most appliance legs are leveling legs, not stilts.

The range has two internal lights, a fan, ignitors, gas valves, and pilot lights, that I know of. The UL certification plate on my 36", 6-burner RNB is 8A.

Rant on -- I don't think you'll find better information on most other similar products. I've read that Wolf got themselves sued over specifying 1/2" gas pipe, which left their ranges starved. BlueStar provides more than enough information to install properly. -- rant off.

I just went through all the hoops of the electrical rough in for my 30" RNB. My manual says a dedicated circuit is preferable (I believe you can download the manual from the Bluestar website). My range is also stamped with an 8 amp requirement so it now will have its own 15 amp circuit. The 36" prestige hood above was stamped with 15 amps and the electrician took it off the range circuit where he originally had it and ran its own 20 amp circuit.

Ye Gods - is there really a pilot light in this thing? Where is that located. Thanks.

Electrical pilot lamp -- bad choice of words on my part.

Sounds like it might be some sort of future generic electrical standard/code item really meant for gas ranges with electronic bells and whistles. Easier and simpler for range makers to now say "Get everyone to do it this way on new installations to standardize the electrical feed system for any later gas range.

I'm "almost" positive that I remember a case a while back, quite a while, where someone was having random sparking issues and the culprit ended up being a non-dedicated circuit.

I know one thing for sure, given the rate of problems I read about (no fights - across ALL pro-style ranges, ok?!) I wouldn't want to give the mfr the luxury of brushing off an issue citing improper installation.

You might want to check with your building code first. I don't know if you need one from a technical/functional perspective, but each of our appliances (including the gas rangetop) needed a separate circuit according to code.

I know of no code related issues req. a dedicated circuit for this, but it's possible there is something.

it usually boils down to the manuf. eliminating trouble calls when it's on a dedicated circuit.

we often wire the hood blower and the cooktop/range ignitor plug on the same circuit if remodeling and or panel space is tight.

new gets a dedicated line for just about everything.

GFCI - required on Kitchen circuit with exposed outlets and ignition modules do not play well together.

Building codes can vary widely from one jurisdiction to another. I sure needed dedicated circuits for all my appliances when I redid my entire kitchen last year. And even though my new range is AG, I opted to leave a 220V circuit available in case a future owner wanted a more electric stove.

Circuit breaker's purpose is to protect the wiring not the device. So 15 amps is just a standard value for a circuit. It would drive a inspector and electrician nut if you asked for a 8 amp dedicated circuit. In my personal opinion that dedicated circuit is a waste but I did install one on mine but added the vent fan. It its dedicated to the cooking area .

cooksnews - while local codes (rules) do differ, there is not that much variation as all are derived from the National Electric Code (NEC).

I don't think you have much room to rant reasonably on either issue. The dedicated 15A circuit for the range is, as others have said, to avoid noise in the circuit that will confuse the ignition modules and cause them to spark when you'd rather they didn't. It's a simple requirement that the manufacturer has noted in the product data sheet. In all likelihood, it's noted as 15A b/c that's the standard, small breaker size in a home electrical panel (I see smaller in industrial control panels).

And having a non-standard counter height means you'll have to come up with a different/creative approach to put the range at the right height. Period. I doubt you'll find any other manufacturers that build in the ability to adjust their ranges up an extra 1" to 1-1/2". Why? Because countertops are 99.9% at 36" AFF (above finished floor).

antss, you're making the rather broad assumption that all of us contributing to these forums even live in the same country, let along the same neighbourhood! I have no idea where you live, but in my Canadian city, I need separate circuits for all major appliances (even my microwave shelf required a separate circuit for its plug), make up air for all venting over 250cfm, and kitchen ventilation is definitely required for all new builds and renovations. And you'd better remove your shoes before you enter any private home here! (That's not code, just polite practice.)

I only mention this to reinforce the idea that one should not come to a forum like this to get building code information. It varies too widely, and we don't know where anyone lives unless they choose to tell us. Check your local ordinances, or even a reliable contracting company. Then install your appliances in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations if you want to maintain your warranties, plus your home insurance coverage.