~Low voltage landscape lighting BURNING at splices ? (pics)
clubkidcarlos
16 years ago
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brickeyee
16 years agoclubkidcarlos
16 years agoRelated Discussions
Low voltage garden lighting
Comments (7)LOL this sounds so familiar!! I had a small lot with the house where I installed the lighting. I also did front and back systems, with walkway lighting. And a huge squirrel population as well. I buried mine about 6 to 8 inches down, never had a problem with them. I even had a squirrel feeding area next to a couple of them in the back. I installed all of mine with hand tools and a shovel. No ditch witch required unless you are REALLY buring the wires, and that isn't necessary. The lighting stuff is very addictive, I warn you. I really enjoyed seeing things come to life after dark, and am steadily building my plan for this house. I have 15 acres now so my plan is getting more and more extensive as I go on and this is one of the main reasons I'm using a lot of solar even though I am not as impressed with the lighting or the look. In certain areas, yes, they work very well. Such as apperance, accent light and such. But for backlighting or uplighting, stick with the low voltage, wired lights. The solar simply doesn't have the Ummph to do it well. I can see my landscape being a combo of both types. And drat, I keep finding perimeter areas I want light in. Like the end of my drive coming up to the house about 600FT away! Believe me, this is a very fun and easy project. If you aren't using a pre-matched kit they sell, be sure to pay attention to the transformer and make sure you have the correct rating for the length of wire, and the number of lights. Also, make sure to buy a small roll of extension wire for the lights and some electrical tape, something will take a few more feet to get the light exactly where you want it and it's an easy splice. It's easy formulas and any of the big box home improvement stores have a info sheet right in the store for you to use to caculate what you need if you decide to put your own scheme together....See Morelow voltage LED soffit lighting
Comments (5)"I thought that a larger transformer would better regulate against line spikes and voltage fluctuations" Maybe, but not always. Keep in mind that low voltage often requires higher current (though LEDs are not as bad as incandescent bubs). Wiring that runs concealed inside walls get smacked by the whole electric code unless the voltage and current are both low (power limited circuits) Wiring on the underside of cabinets at low voltage gets a lot of breaks. Even more if the circuit is also low power (power limited circuits, think like your doorbell or thermostat). Even with LEDs you may not get all tat much light from theses low power circuits though. LEDs sound great at only 10 mA each, until you need a lot of them for bright task lighting, let alone if you want a 3-color setup for varying light color....See Morelow voltage lawn lights
Comments (3)frazier i ran into this problem with my inside LV lights and came up with a nice solution. i bought a small panel box at Lowe's - it's grey and has a pull out ON/OFF switch. I believe the box is rated for exterior use. Inside this box, they have a bus bar (about 4 inches long) with 6 holes on the bus and screw hold downs for each. The box also has a slot on one side that allows you to snap in a second bus bar - which I bought (they sell these as box accessories). I took all of my low voltage wires and connected them to the two buses - one bus bar was for + and the other one for -. I then connected my LV power supply to the bus. this eliminated having to do any twisting of those wires and provided a nice clean tie off. The holes were large - but I would check to make sure they could accomdate the guage of wire you are using if you go this route. I did not use the ON/OFF pull out switch in the box - but that could be used if you wanted a quick disconnect. When I started my LV project, I consulted an electrican and he told me to put solder on the ends of all the LV wires before twisting them together to make sure to get a consistent current flow across all the wires. Had I done that, there was no way a wire nut would have accomodated 4 of these soldered ended wires. I would have had to use a large crimp - which could have worked - but wouldn't have worked as well as the small box did. Hope that helps....See MoreLow Voltage Landscape lights melting at splices, Help, Need imput
Comments (17)If it is not staying tight, pretwist is your friend. And you might be using the wrong size nut. I disagree with ron on the pretwisting (again everyone has their own opinion on this). I have taken off various nuts not pretwisted and the wires are completely loose, or they arced so much that they were welded together and I couldn't get the nut off. When I take off a nut on my pretwisted connections they are still together tight. So the claim that pretwisting does little in the long run is wrong. I have read an entire thread on a different forum of people going back and forth on this so whatever works for you. I personally have had to redo a lot of junction boxes with loose connections done by someone else and have never had a problem with my connections. The connections of mine that I have undone were for later modifications and they were just as tight as ever after taking the nut off. One of the valid arguments against pretwisting is that when that is all you do all day it is extra wear on your wrist, which I agree with. If the nut alone could twist the wire and get it tight and keep it tight then I wouldn't pretwist, but I have not experienced that in the limited electrical work I have done....See Moreav8r
16 years agobrickeyee
16 years agoclubkidcarlos
16 years agomartin-electrical
16 years agoDavidR
16 years ago
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