The outer casing is cut with a hacksaw, the wires must be trimmed according to instructions (and nutted, etc) then the end caps are re-inserted. Save any spare outlet modules for future breakage, as they may change the design and be hard to come by. Casey

Check with the manufacturer. Some companies have the small power supplies dual listed. You can always put receptacles controlled by a switch in the cabinets and then plug the lights in.

I'm having the opposite problem...sort of. The house we bought has direct wire under cabinet lighting AND outlet strips. I like it because there's no outlets cut into the tile. The tile has a deep bevel, so I get why they did it. However, the power strips are old and yellowing. We would love to change them out, but don't know how without possibly having to remove the tile, which we don't want to do. We like this tile and haven't been able to find it in stores or online. We need a few pieces to put behind the stove after changing from a microhood to a regular vent.

120/240v receptacles have different pin configurations to help ensure that larger appliances are served by correctly sized electrical service. A 40-amp receptacle might as well have a label on it saying, "I am wired for fixtures needing a 40-amp circuit." While putting a 40-amp receptacle and cord on a 30-amp circuit may not cause a problem in actual operation (as long as the applicance really needs only 30 amps), it is a poor practice, IMO, if only because it may cause confusion and/or misuse in the future. I believe the wire from the circuit box is 30amp. Why not eliminate guesswork and check the breaker size and wire guage (#10 for 30A, #8 for 40A and #6 for 50A)? If you're replacing a "standard" electric oven/range, the circuit is more likely to be 50- or 40-amp, but who knows? Your electrician should be qualified to determine this and install the correct receptacle.