The 5 ft almond colored steel raceway Plugmold made by Wiremold was only $33 or so at HD when I bought the replacement one last fall. It isn't child-resistant (but neither is the rest of my 2007 vintage house - I think that went into NEC effective 2008, but not sure it would apply to plugmolds if they are 55" off the floor under your upper wall cabinets, and over a 2ft counter so kids can't reach? Ask your electrician). I checked, mine is 15A but that is fine for small appliances - again, I would check your KitchenAid mixer and see how much it pulls, if you think you'll be running a large small appliance on the strip then I would have that one put on a separate circuit, even if 15A is OK. Don't want to pop the breaker running the coffeepot, toaster, and microwave all at the same time! I wouldn't plug a microwave into anything less than a 20A circuit, some of them can pull close to 15A all by themselves. If the end will be fairly well hidden and your electrician is neat, he can always cut down the raceway with a hacksaw, you might even be able to buy a 5ft section and make 2 out of it if you buy extra end caps. The wiring is easy, the hardest part of the Wiremold assembly is tapping the cover on - "striking sharply with hell of hand" - OUCH! was tough to do in tight space even with a wooden block, even for someone who had done it before (electrician). The wiring was a bit of a pain - not much room inside, when I installed the first one I took out the first receptacle to have room to work behind it, the electrician did the same with the replacement (I keep a child plug in to remind myself it's not functional). www.wiremold.com I don't know if they'll sell direct, but if you contact them they may be able to tell you where to buy (or order, if you want specific color, they have steel, aluminum, nonmetallic, almond, white, silver/stainless, black, etc.).

Since the molding isn't attached to the ceiling, it needs to be reinforced with a triangular piece of wood to support the lower part of the molding. From what I've read, this takes up between 1/3 and 1/2 of the space behind the molding. I suppose I could leave the reinforcing piece off in the area of the box. Still, a standard faceplate is almost 2 3/4" to conceal.

I have these. Mine face down. I like this, because then the cord falls straight down, by the back wall, instead of thrusting forward a little bit, and THEN down, into the work area. You have to look carefully to insert the plugs, which involves bending over. It's not that hard. And having to insert them from the front would STILL involve bending over. Next time, i will do a mix of wall mount (down very low, though--for permanently plugged-in stuff), and Plugmold (for temporary-use appliances, and for undercabinet-mounted items). And "Plugmold" is the brandname for the product that Wiremold makes. Sometimes people use the terms interchangeably; It's the same thing (though Wiremold does make plain "raceways" that only carry wires and don't have plugs in them; that's also surface mounted). Plugmold is usually surface mounted.

Thank you so much for your help. Unfortunately my general contractor just isn't that familiar with plugmolds. However, the guy who is working with him today to hang the cabinets (a carpenter) is familiar with them. I showed them your pics, a2gemini's, and buehl's. They are going to mount them on an angled piece of wood like all of yours and make it work. Really the problem was that they didn't know about those boxes that you mount at the end of each strip, which eliminates the need to feed the wires through the top of the strips which would cause the wires to end up in the bottom of my cabinet. I called the company this morning and they explained the use of the boxes...problem solved!! I'm right in the thick of my remodel and there are so many little decisions to make each day and small glitches here and there...my head is spinning! So thanks again for responding. It helped my sanity more than you know:)