how to joint 2 butcher block?
PoorOwner
15 years ago
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Jon1270
15 years agoPoorOwner
15 years agoRelated Discussions
how thick are your wood 'butcher block' counters?
Comments (3)1 1/2" is the minimum to get a fancy edge, 1 3/4" is better. If there is not any exposed end grain and you want to save $$ go with the 1 1/4" and have a carpenter edge-band it with 1 3/4" or wider oak strips, so it will look like the costlier top. Casey...See MoreRepairing damaged edge grain butcher block - replacing a board?
Comments (3)As a baker I use large maple benches (made by Boos) and sometimes we repair small spots in them by dowelling. I'll use a twist drill of the appropriate size, coat a slightly too-long dowel with woodworking glue, and nudge it in. After drying it sands down and nearly disappears. The dowel should slide in dry without difficulty but without sloppiness, either. If one dowel doesn't quite fill the void you can let the glue dry and do another that overlaps the first. It may require a drill guide to get the holes just where you want them. Take a piece of scrap and drill a nice, straight hole of the same size. Locate, and drill throught the guide. Make the scrap long enough that a helper can hold it in place for you if necessary, or so that you can clamp it. It's not a furniture grade repair but might serve your purpose. You can try it out on a back edge, perhaps, to see how you like it. Good luck, Mark...See MoreButcher block butt joints
Comments (5)Make sure the cabinets are SQUARE to each other, LEVEL, and snugly connected. That ensures that the countertop will drop into place with no hassles. Do a dry fit to make sure. Then all you need to do is apply caulk to the joint. I used a flexible unsanded caulk for tiles because it came in a color very close to the countertop's color. Another counter got clear matte silicon caulk because it abutted a different material....See MoreJoing butcher block counter slabs to make wide island
Comments (19)I have teak countertops in my kitchen. Done out of 8/4 planks, edge glued. I used biscuits and West System epoxy. I wiped the plank edges down with acetone just prior to assembly. The run of countertop as a whole is 30" deep by roughly 18' long, it's two separate pieces that overlap on the ends, one about 12' long, the other about 6' long. The overlap is because one countertop is a couple inches lower than the other one. I have an under mount kitchen sink, so the end grain of the planks is exposed to water at the sink. Zero damage. Been in for almost 20 years. No warping, lifting, curling, no separation at all on the glue lines. Finished with mineral oil. The oil holds up well, I try to renew the oil once or maybe twice a year, though I have gone several years without renewing it. I have another teak end-grain butcher block cutting surface as a kitchen island end cap. Roughly 4' square with one corner clipped on a 45, and 5" or so thick. The individual blocks are about 3-1/2" by 2" and assembled in a running bond pattern. Same assembly; I wiped the blocks down with acetone, then epoxied. No biscuits on that one. We do cut on it some, not a lot, but the cutting surface has held up perfectly. On the side or edge of the block, there's one break on a glue line, where the grain orientation of the two blocks don't remotely match up due to one of the blocks having wild running grain. The break isn't noticeable to the eye, but you can feel it when you run your fingertip along the edge. There's maybe a 1/32" lippage at that joint. Just enough to catch a fingernail on if you run it along the side of the slab. I've never bothered to sand it flush. Great material for a countertop. Been used and abused in a heavily used kitchen, and they still look pretty darn bueno....See MoreJon1270
15 years agopaulflyboy
15 years agojustnigel
15 years agopaulflyboy
15 years agoMongoCT
15 years agoPoorOwner
15 years agobobismyuncle
15 years agoPoorOwner
15 years agobarrell
15 years agobrickeyee
15 years ago
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