It may be lighter than stone per unit of volume, but you will need to use a lot more volume if end-grain, and that factor will make it begin to approach stone. An end-grain counter top should be 3.5" thick to have structural integrity, while stone at 3 CM thick may weigh 25 lbs per sq ft, 3.5" BB maple will weigh 16 lbs. Casey

Rhome - your island is exactly what I was thinking of doing! Using the substrate to make it look thicker sounds like such a great idea! How did you attach the DF to the substrate? I was thinking of using plywood - do you think there's a difference in plywood vs mdf? Is the DF t&g? What did you finish it with? Your island gives me such hope - you have a similar sink (mine is a Kohler cast iron double bowl drop in, but I was concerned about the white drop in on the plank counter), and I'll have white cabinetry underneath. I spoke to my dad tonight, as he made the table I grew up with out of leftover flooring. I think I've got him talked into doing it...he's talking about and after that, I could make a coffee table, and a kitchen table, and...maybe you should order more wood. However, that first table wasn't super thick, so we were trying to figure out how to make it at least appear thicker. I'll have to show him your island! Thanks everyone for the advice! Labradoodlemom, I'll check out the other thread. Allison, I was concerned about how to join it when I first thought about this ages ago, but since I'll be using tongue & groove flooring, I think I'll be okay without the biscuits and whatnot. I'd love to find some reclaimed big thick planks like you used, but they just aren't available around here. Thanks again!

I use the Bees Oil brand wax/mineral oil combination on my cutting boards, salad bowl and soapstone counters. I get it from Amazon.

Following. Jess, we are also insetting a working butcher block in our granite. However you wish to install it is a personal choice regarding aesthetics, but I think Joseph's comment regarding the overhang sounds excellent. We intend for our butcher block to rise above the countertop approx 1/2" - 3/4" - no more as I don't want it so high it's uncomfortable to prep on (this was pointed out to me when I posted a question on the subject). Remember to acclimate your butcher block before installation - about 5 days I think, as it is similar to hardwood. This link might be informative regarding installation: LINK Joseph, thank you for chiming in. I've a question for you which might also help the OP: I've read it's important to be able to reach under the butcher block or, with a 'closed top' cabinet, be able to remove the butcher block to oil it underneath. What is a closed top cabinet?; and is the silicone used as you mention a requirement, impeding me from removing the block on occasion to oil the underside? Also, I prefer the look a a straight edge rather than the 1/4" round where the 2 material meed - is that possible or advisable? Thanks for any help!