Wood Counters - Not Butcher block?
Comments (8)
allison0704
14 years agomelanie1422
14 years agoRelated Discussions
Does anyone know (ballpark!) what a walnut c-top would cost?
Comments (11)This is my bid for a 3 feet by 6 feet walnut edge grain butcher block: $595.35 The edges will be simple eased edges. I believe this quote is for 1 3/4 inch thick. 2" thick is proportionally more. Truck shipping to from Ohio to NJ will cost $159.00 for a total $754.35. The wood top will arrive unfinished. I will have to do a light finish sanding with a 220 or 320 grit sandpaper and then oil or polyurethane all surfaces. That works out to about 33 dollars a square foot. I haven't asked for a price quote from Grothouse yet. But I plan to. I suspect that the price goes up significantly if there is a detailed ogee edge treatment and if it comes prefinished. The Grothous finish is supposed to be excellent. But now that I've seen the informative youtube video posted on GW I don't think I mind finishing the wood myself....See Morehow thick are your wood 'butcher block' counters?
Comments (3)1 1/2" is the minimum to get a fancy edge, 1 3/4" is better. If there is not any exposed end grain and you want to save $$ go with the 1 1/4" and have a carpenter edge-band it with 1 3/4" or wider oak strips, so it will look like the costlier top. Casey...See MoreAnyone have a butcher block counter they cut on?
Comments (19)Growing up, my mom had a built in cutting board. I don't remember squares, so it must have been long runs of wood. I sure am glad I grew up before the media invented germs. We cut everything on it and just cleaned it with Windex. That's all. I don't recall her ever oiling it, never salting it, never, God knows, sanding it. Just Windex. Then the towel was hung over the base cabinet door for the next use. We baked on it, made sandwiches for lunch on it, cut cold-cuts on it, chicken, stew meat, dough, I do mean everything. Probably my own fingers at times, since I cut myself a lot. I do recall opening a can and slicing both thumb and index finger trying to get the lid off. On that counter... I just made my own 24" and 14' wood counter tops (10-12' pieces of maple). Can't call them butcher blocks because I don't want to rile the purists. I haven't done anything about sealing them yet, because I want to color them. My trouble is maple splotches and I want to do it right. Anyway, by the stove, I'll probably cut on it. Where it goes into the dining area? Probably not....See MoreButcher block ok to use with sink?
Comments (19)I can just say that I really really wanted butcher blck, and it's one small kitchen with no good options for transitions nor a space for an island..and our cabinetmaker was so adamant against us using it, even though he'd gain from it financially since we spotted a piece of walnut in his shop that was incredibly beautiful.. in short we went with his recommendations, given he's a professional, not us In retrospect-probably right decision..my DH is great in kitchen cooking-wise, and I'm very grateful for that because I don't cook that often anymore, but he's A Kitchen Destroyer..:) I still miss my dream though We do have walnut flooring..and some walnut furniture..one could say it's enough walnut for a house. I'm just a very big fan of walnut and teak. And warmth of wood, in general....See Morelabradoodlemom
14 years agoallison0704
14 years agorhome410
14 years agoWe used Douglas fir 1 x 6's for our island counter...pieces left after we'd done baseboard, door casing, etc. with the lumber we got from cutting trees on our own property. To get it to look thick DH put a substrate on the cabinets, similar to what you would for laminate (MDF or plywood), then built a shallow box shape, which we inverted over it to be the counter...So the planks were next to each other, then pieces were set upright on their sides around the edges. This way the planks themselves don't have to be so thick to look nice.
labradoodlemom
14 years agorhome410
14 years agoLabradoodlemom:
I don't have a picture like that, I don't think. I will post the closest thing I have and try to get one for you in the near future. (Camera is refusing to work right now)Melanie1422:
No, I don't think we bothered to attach the fir to the undercounter. It fits with just enough room to expand and contract, and the sink and faucet hold it in the proper place.It is finished with Waterlox...a couple coats of the Original Sealer, and a few hand rubbed coats of their Satin finish.
The pieces weren't tongue and groove, so they are biscuit-jointed together.
I think either plywood or mdf would be fine underneath. We actually put 3 layers of mdf. All of our counters are that thick, because we have a faint hope of replacing the perimeter counters with concrete, and had planned the island to have a 3" thick butcherblock. Anyway, we first put on the layers of mdf with a scrap of laminate on top so we could use the island while waiting to make the butcherblock. Then we ran a bit short on fir and on money, so I devised this other plan, which made it so easy...Just a wood 'slip cover' over what we already had.
The best shots I have from above:
A picture of what's hiding under the wood top. (I'd also painted the edges to keep them from absorbing any moisture):
melanie1422Original Author