Loger: No flack intended just general information. We all have to learn somewhere. I still remember my 1st welding experience , during my Diesel Apprenticship in the early 60.s . It was Gas torch fusion welding back then with appropriate filler rod. My bib tops had more filler rod tip burn holes then a sprinkler hose . Baymee should remember this trial and tribulation during his learning stages . My second Welding upgrading was during my College upgrading during my Stationary Engineering 3rd Class Degree. We used 550 volt 3- phase Lincoln Industrial Welder in the early 70,s and it was required to weld 8 inch x 8 inch test coupons from 1/4 inch hot rolled steel plate in position. 2 complete 8 pass welds in all 4-positions (flat / horizontal / vertical / overhead) I really had a problem initially in horizontal position with undercutting the weld from to hot a heat setting . Most beginners have trouble with adequate penetration in overhead from to cold of a setting. Once completed we cut the coupon into 4 separate strips (vertical band saw) and bent them into a U within a hydraulic bender . If any of the welds cracked we flunked our CWB Exam. My second testing was again Stick welding during my Pressure Vessel Certification U-69 we were required to fabricate a 4 inch x 4 inch x 1/2 inch metal box from 1/8 plate complete with a 1/4 inch weldolet coupling. Once the fabrication was done the box was pressurized 600 psi until it ballooned and then was submerged in water to check for any weld failures (bubbles) identified and again you failed this 1st phase of testing . Before you even got into the Boiler Pipe Weld testing . So yeah have burnt a few sticks of Rod in my Day . Really liked 5/32 Jet Rod , lazy Welders Rod only for flat position welding . Hated Low Hydrogen nasty flux fumes very hazardous. Anyhow been a few yrs since I stick welded , most of my projects are with a Miller Mig these days. Like riding a bicycle you never forget but it will take some practice to get quality welds after a few yrs absence. I remember some of the best welders I worked with during my Industrial Days were the laziest , they could weld on their head once they found a comfortable position. Please take our advice in the fashion (constructive) it is intended all the best Bro :) This post was edited by ewalk on Mon, Oct 14, 13 at 20:06

Not sure how old your husband is, but the older I get, the more I appreciate my 12v LI cordless drill! I have the Hitachi and I love it. I also have an 18v Bosch that is much heavier, but also makes both my shoulder and elbow problems flare up much quicker. For fast jobs where I'm not holding the drill above my head or at odd angles, the heavier drill is fine. But, I'd much rather reach for my smaller drill. So far, I've completely remodeled my house, built a fence, deck, done drywall- all with my 12v drill. I have 3 batteries and when I'm working one is always ready in the charger. The smaller drill has adjustable settings, so I can put together stuff from IKEA without stripping screws. The 18v has way too much power, and would surely strip those. I also have an electric screwdriver that I could use for simpler things, but prefer the feel of the drill. I think it's a very personal thing, have him try them out buy holding them at the store. And remember, most of the displays don't include the heavy part- the battery- so make sure to take that into consideration. And always buy the best brand you can. The first drill I bought was a Black & Decker, and it has been charged maybe twice in the 6 years I've had it. I prefer quality tools- and that one isn't.

All of you guys are great. I keep on learning with each post. Perhaps there was some miscommunication, and a lot of ignorance on my part. In the very beginning I thought there I could tap into a relay or install a low amp relay to intercept the power from the Intermatic Timer subpanel to the motor. But after finding out the amps going in and going out are really the same, there was really no advantage in doing so. As there is a circuit breaker built right into the subpanel, I still think itÂs a rather good idea to have a mechanical latch to pull the level of the breaker as someone suggested with a solenoid (since I know I wonÂt be able to find a shunt-breaker). Again, I am ignorant of the motor controller (I only know there is a big capacitor sitting on top of the motor  which I would not want to play with). ItÂs seems it takes high amps and I would rather play with low amps. I just need to come up with a simple solenoid that pulls one way, as I donÂt need to worry about turning the breaker on again. Once a "flood" sensor triggers it, I would want the motor to be turned off permanently, even if I am gone for two weeks, and even if the pool turns green! Better green pool than have a pool of water softening up house foundation!

"I then opened the receptacle and put my multimeter probes on leg A and neutral, it read 118V and when I pressed the start button the it dropped to 0V and leg B was at 240V." Leg B was at 240V relative to what? What type of receptacle are you using? "Three prong" covers a lot of receptacle/plug types. Perhaps comparison to the chart at http://www.stayonline.com/reference-nema-straight-blade.aspx will help identify it. Ideally, dryers are wired to four-wire systems, two hot conductors, the neutral conductor, and the grounding conductor. The neutrals are grounded only at the breaker box. Older dryers used three conductor systems, two hot and one neutral conductors. The chassis should be separately grounded in such cases. I can imagine, however, a design intended to operate purely from 240 Vac and having two hot conductors and a grounding conductor. Does the non-hot lead of the cable to the dryer have a low or high resistance to the dryer chassis? Another possible consideration is that military electrical wiring, particularly in field conditions (even as mature as those at Kuwait, for example) are notorious for being poorly wired, even sometimes leading to electrocutions. Is it possible that your dryer wiring was modified in the field to conform with whatever power source configuration was present? kas The Electrical Wiring forum may be better tailored to your question than the Laundry forum.