GFCI receptacles are designed so they can protect other recetacles "downstream" in the ciruit. You need to connect the feed from the breaker to the "line" terminals on the GFCI and then the HOT and NEUTRAL from the "load" terminals to the other receptacles.

For eight receptacles I would use a GFI breaker.
Outside receptacles can get damp and cause a very slight leakage to ground. This can cause nuisance tripping and the more receptacles the more likely this can happen.

And how will going to a GFCI breaker solve this?

A GFCB has less of a tendency to nuisance trip. At least in my experience.

GFCB is probably more reliable. But it could be more prone to nuisance trips if the circuit run is long.

Also, a GFCB does not open the neutral wire. This should generally not be much of an issue as the neutral wire voltage would be tied to ground if the circuit originates in the main panel where neutral and ground are bonded. From subpanels this can be more of a risk. Although that voltage will still be very low, in certain situations, like an appliance falling into a small plastic pool, it could still leave some amount of current flowing even after the GFCB opens the hot wire.

My approach would be to find a way to be sure even the neutral is interrupted. I'm told (but have never verified) that GFCI receptacles open both the neutral and hot wires. I'd be more comfortable having the GFCI protection, if not both GFCI and GFCB together. However, I am considering the risk of have the reset button outside (the receptacle itself may have gotten wet, such as with kids around playing with things they should not). My current thought is to have the circuit run through an interior GFCI located where it is unlikely to be use for anything, but where an adult can reach it to reset it or test the circuit for voltage (hence I would not be using a dead-front GFCI). From there it would run to the exterior receptacles, which could be the ordinary type, although I would probably use the type that have the little sliding face to cover the prong holes when not in use (in addition to the code required cover that can completely cover the receptacle even with a cord plugged in).

Put a sign on the inside GFCI that says what it does. "GFCI protecting outdoor outlets" Might want to put a note at the main panel that it's there too.. considerate to the next person who needs to reset it.

I assume HH means Home Hardware? If you are in Canada, you need to only put a GFCI rec. on the first rec. and it can protect the recs downstream.

I finally got around to installing the GFCI breaker on this outdoor run of receptacles and cannot set it to ON. So, will I have to open all 7 boxes and check for loose wiring, or can I plug in some sort of tester to locate the box with the problem?

Thanks, Elsa

You probably have a ground wire in contact with the neutral which is preventing the GFCI breaker from working. Pull each receptacle out of its box, properly separating the wires and see if the fault clears. If so, turn the breaker off and replace the receptacles carefully making sure no wires touch. This is one incidence where a little tape around the receptacle will be beneficial.

elsa-
When the breaker trips, it typically goes to a middle position and you need to first move it all the way to the off position before you can move it back to the on position. Could that be the problem?

The weather has been great so am finally getting at this outdoor circuit. I disconnected plug #4 and the GFI could be reset. So I reconnected it, then disconnected plug #6 and the GFI could be reset up to there, but only if plug #7 stayed unconnected. I then completely removed plug #7 and undid the ground, but plug #6 still has to stay unconnected from #7 for the circuit to work up to there.

So, could the extra length of wire be the problem, or what else could it be? I can probably leave #7 dead, but would like to get it working.

Thanks for your input.
Elsa.

Capacitive coupling in long runs of wire can sometimes fool GFIs. It's more likely with a GFI recept than a breaker, though.

Look for a wire with damaged insulation, or some kind of damage to the recept in that box.

To begin, I would run the outside receptacles on a 20 amp breaker and use 12/2 romex. All receptacles should be in weather proof boxes connected through PVC conduit. Further, when ever I install a receptacle in a metal box, especially a GFCI, I always tape the contacts to prevent contact with the box. Finally, we always use GE Silicon between the perimeter of the box and the exierior of the house. I have a rather large home and have three outside receptacles the first being a GFCI.

It's all opinion, I admit, but I would differ on a few points here.

First, I like UF for wiring exterior recepts. Moisture will eventually get into the box, no matter what you do, and NM's kraft paper filler will wick up the moisture. Then you get mold and deterioration. Code doesn't require it, but I think UF (or NM-A) is a good idea.

Second, I don't see why you need PVC conduit. It is one way, but not really necessary if you use a neoprene sealing connector to enter the weatherproof box. Perhaps I've misunderstood this and TRH could explain a bit more.

Silicone seal is a good idea between box and house, BUT run the bead only around the top and sides. Leave the bottom open to drain condensation. Also, don't forget to seal round the siding hole with duct seal, to keep wasps and yellowjackets from working their way in (this can happen, especially if the box loosens a bit from the siding).

Finally, I know there's some religion here, but IMO there's a special, extra-hot place in you-know-where reserved for guys who stick electrical tape on where it's not needed. Tape leaves a gummy residue for the guy who has to change the recept - and a GFI mounted outdoors will eventually have to be changed.

Just some thoughts and opinions, nothing personal.

'Nuther opinion: Following the teachings of the master I apprenticed under, I tape all receptacles that are easily reached by children. It's way too easy for even a 4-year old to get a receptacle cover off, especially if they have been watching handyman dad at work, and then go poking around in the box with whatever they got the screw out with. I also, of course, put plug covers in all unused receptacles.

The residue is nasty, but is just a nuisance compared to a child getting shocked.

I'm not sure if a 4 year old would know to get a screw driver to remove a receptacle plate or why. It is more common for them to stick something in the receptacle. There are various wall plate divices to prevent this. Again, the only time I tape receptacles is when they are mounted in metal boxes.

I did use 12/2 for the exterior receptacles, but only a 15 amp GFI breaker. Would changing to a 20 amp GFI breaker solve my problem and is it code compliant in Ontario?

Thanks, Elsa.

I'm just a diy'er so this is only an opinion but I don't believe that changing the breaker to 20 amps would change the situation even though I would personally use a 20amp and 12/2 for what you are doing. I would lean more towards that the long run and multiple connections are fooling the gfi into tripping if you cannot find any connection or contact issues as posted above by david.

I do not know Canadas codes but I use my outdoor receptacles alot for power tools so going less than 20amp didn't seem practical.

Now if you were trying to use a 30 or 40 amp breaker to stop the gfi's from tripping then I would seriously worry about code vioaltions but not for a dedicated outdoor run using a 20amp gfi breaker instead of a 15 especially since you used the 12/2 wire.