Kirkhall mentioned accessibility standards for homes and there seems to be some confusion about what they are so I'll try to clarify the issues involved. There are no federal requirements for accessibility features in single-family homes. However, the federal standards (ADA) in multifamily housing have become a model for many published recommendations from states, cities, the AARP, etc. but except in a very few cases these recommendations are not laws and sometimes rely on tax credits (Atlanta) and grants (Specially Adapted Housing Grant, etc.) to persuade people to adhere to them. Unfortunately, these standards vary quite a bit regarding door openings and none that I know of address bathroom turn-around space. Bathroom turn-around space is found in the Federal ADA standards for public use buildings and in addition to the 5 ft turn-around circle there is an option for a T-shaped turn-around and both the T and the circle can include certain knee and toe spaces under other fixtures as defined in the ADA so determination of compliance requires more than a 5 ft circle drawn on the plan and for that reason you won't find that diagram in the toilet room section of the ADA. Another source of confusion is the difference between "size" and "clearance" of doorways. In the ADA the 32" required clearance is measured between the face of the door stop on the latch side and the face of the door when it is open 90 deg. That means the minimum ADA door "size" is 34" or larger depending on the hinge projection and door thickness. Many single-family recommendations call for a 32" "opening" or "size" which means the actual clearance would be 30" or less which is too small to meet the 32" ADA requirement. This clearance can be improved with offset swing-away hinges that allow the door to swing clear of the opening at 90 deg. but they are not very attractive in a home. The bottom line is that there are no national standards for single-family handicap access and using the ADA standards would be excessive and unnecessary so it is best to avoid the term "handicap accessible" and do whatever you think is reasonable to accommodate the disabled in your home. For example, if a wheelchair has wheel handrails with a maximum width of 25" to 27", a 32" door size would not be ADA compliant and would only provide 2 1/2" to 1 1/2" of space on each side for knuckles so maybe you would prefer a 34" ADA compliant door, however, for a 23" wide powered wheelchair a 30" door might be tight but a 32" door would be ideal and the chair could turn around in a 37" circle or make a T-turn almost anywhere. Of equal importance is the design of toilets, lavatories, sinks, tubs, showers, cooking equipment as well as maneuvering clearances to the sides of swinging doors all of which takes up more than 20 pages in the ADA.

Thanks for posting pics and telling me what you will store in your pull-outs, Beagles. (btw, I've linked to the photo you tried to post, see below.) Very helpful. Do you know how much space, width-wise, you have in each of those 5" pull-outs? I've looked for this info on-line but can't seem to find the answer. Thanks! I've eliminated a 3" filler pull-out from the running because I don't think it's going to provide useful storage, especially given the cost for the hardware. I've added the suggestion of open cubbies for plastic wrap, baggies and/or rolling pins, at the suggestion of my friend, Kelly Morisseau, CMKBD and blogger at Kitchen Sync (she beat you to the idea, bmore, but thanks for popping in to help me). bmore, the towels I'd keep in the towel cabinet would be for drying off clean but slightly wet dishes from the DW. If I leave these towels on the counter, they get used to wipe less-than-clean hands. That drives me nuts. I try to put the "dish" towels in a separate location on the counter than the "hand" towels and that does help most of the time. If I had a cabinet just for "dish" towels, though, that would be even better. (oh, and the step stool is stored in the walk-in pantry about 4 steps away so no need to store one in the kitchen proper.) The other idea Kelly suggested was an open cubby to store over-sized butcherblocks, which is a great idea. I will have at least 1 large butcherblock and possibly a second (my late mom's large bread board) and I haven't yet assigned a spot for them in my new kitchen. Even though this is in the clean-up zone, it's actually a good spot to store these items because we set our large butcherblock on the island, directly across from this spot, to use as a very large trivet for hot items coming out of the oven (especially handy for pizzas since we can then slice them on the same surface). It would be similar to the tall open storage in the island in this kitchen (but only one cubby): [[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/craftsman-kitchen-craftsman-kitchen-seattle-phvw-vp~92385) [traditional kitchen design[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/traditional-kitchen-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_709~s_2107) by seattle architect knowles ps herbflavor, by apothecary drawers, do you mean a series of narrow, shallow drawers top to bottom? I wouldn't want a drawer stack less than 6" wide and even then each drawer would only yield 3", interior width. The narrowest drawer, interior width, I have in my current kitchen is 5". I store match books, used corks (for the times when a cork disintegrates when a bottle is opened), and kiddy-type birthday candles in it. Not sure how I'd fill a series of 3" wide drawers but tea bags are a possibility since the mugs will be in the upper cabinet just above. I'll measure items to see if I can fill a series of narrow drawers. Thanks for the suggestion. For you visual folks, the size of these cubbies is fairly representative to the amount of space I'll have (I may have a smidge more room). [[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/traditional-kitchen-traditional-kitchen-phvw-vp~86102) [traditional kitchen design[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/traditional-kitchen-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_709~s_2107) by dc metro kitchen and bath Kleppinger Design Group, Inc. I know a lot of people use narrow spaces like this to store wine but it really wouldn't do the wine any good to be stored between DW and fridge (mulled wine is fine but heat and wine are not a good combination for storage). Here is a link that might be useful:

Sounds like a pretty typical inspection report for a home built in 1930. Seems to me that this wanna be buyer doesn't have a clue about old homes and thinks they are being cute by posting this report. For a price in the ballpark of 150,000-165,000, I'd think this is a very fine house!

Sounds like a pretty easy decision when looked at from a purely objective perspective. One option reduces the number of parties involved for improved accountability and less finger-pointing should issues arise, specializes in window installation all day everyday, has a high level of familiarity with the intricacies of the given product, and also has an established weight with the manufacturer/supplier that can get things done, again, should issues arise. It checks all of the boxes IMO to ensure to best possible installation and best service in when something is needed. The distance is a slight concern, but I'd say it is pretty well outweighed by the other points.