I would also consider a 2-level approach or something similar that lets you make the transition to ground seem more gradual. There is also the idea that you may find you want to do a good deal of grilling the food outside, then eat inside, because well, it is just so convenient and you can grill under less ideal circumstances than required for outdoor dining. The utilitarian steps down to patio just to get to the grill will be a barrier to that. The problem with same level is that you have to use decking, then it does tend to force you to a large deck, then a large area underneath it plus lattice or whatever, plus maintenance--though new deck materials as you suggest make that less of an issue. So I do not want to discourage you from thinking about having a "stone" patio that is part of the yard. I think over time that area could be very nice and will feel more permanent--properly landscaped. So the deck idea gives a more immediate sense of its being just an extension of your kitchen and feeling like a "room", but the patio has the ability to feel "in the yard", as noted above. The problem with bi-level structures is you have to design carefully so that neither part is too small to be useful or it breaks up your party in the wrong way. So, for example, if you envision 6 guys or gals yakking around the grill, you want room for that in your design. I think the deck landing as shown in your picture has that dreaded ubiquitous tacked-on landing look that just gets you up and down, and if you do actually make just steps, I would try to put more into their design to make a more graceful descent to the yard--whether that is broader, curved, or something. Of course that might be too expensive, so part of the fun of the forum is that we can brainstorm about how you might spend your $$! Really, just giving you things to think about. Broad steps or more gradual transition type structures can also often be used as seating/dining (for kids) as long as is wide enough. You don't show anything about the exposure of the back of the house, sun patterns, etc, so any design needs to think ahead to whether you will plant trees for shade, use umbrellas, arbor, or what--meaning, leave space in yard, or plan layout of space.

The doors/windows in the inspiration pic are a custom set of 4 patio doors mulled together with only the 2 inner ones operating all from the same manufacturer--likely a Pella, Jeld-Wen, Andersen or Marvin. We had something similar specced at one time and the cost was $3-4K with grids between the glass if I remember correctly. The cost skyrockets from there if you want simulated or true divided lites/grids. It is not easy to duplicate the look in the inspiration pic when you're using components from different manufacturers and mixing & matching windows and doors to get the effect you want. What you have appears to be the standard box store style patio door set with a transom mulled above flanked by 2 double hung windows. The problem with these style doors is that they will not look flush like the windows as the glass is held in by a chunky plastic frame that screws in place on the inside and outside of the door. The window will never have that look. You can get closer to the look in your pic by using flush glazed patio doors which more closely resemble the window design for uniformity. Changing the side windows to non-operational windows will also help achieve a cohesive look with the glass in the doors. I've linked to another thread that talks about flush glazed doors & mixing windows and doors below. If you need to use the pics in the thread to explain anything to the builder, you are more than welcome to do so. No matter which way you go, make sure the glass sizes match up in the transoms across the entire wall and not just the height of the overall transom. (you'll see in the link what I mean). Hope this helps! Here is a link that might be useful: Flush Glaszed Patio Door Discussion w/ Pics

blocking sp3 does not in anyway block any other updates so do not worry about that. Minnie what has you confused? did you not know sp3 had been installed on your pc? It went out through auto updates as stated in the original post. susanjn be very very happy do a little dance and rejoice you are one of the lucky ones that is all I can say. (or you have not noticed yet the effects) The horrors others have experienced are quite true and quite numerous and still happening. Anyone doing the install with out first disabling all other programs and most especially any type of security programs including AV, firewall etc can definitely expect problems. Best way to do it still is to go to the actual sp3 download site and download the full sp3 update version(NOT from windows updates), then turn off every thing on the pc or best start in safe mode and try to install. If you have IE7 you better uninstall it prior to putting on sp3 as specified in the instructions listed in an above post. I still don't have it don't plan on getting it.

More than likely you can do a "Full Frame Replacement" with what you have without chipping away your stucco. Your 1977 windows should have a 2" brickmould around the window frame that attaches to the exterior wall. By removing the entire frame and brickmould from the opening you'll be able to attach the nailing fin of a new window in the same spot. It all comes down to the proper measuring for the new window. Depending on your existing windows and the kind of sill they have will determine the new window sizing. When I measure these type of windows for full replacement I measure the width from outside of the brickmould to the opposite outside of the brickmould. In the industry we call this the "Brick To Brick" measurements. I do the same thing for the height from the top of the brickmould to the bottom of the sill. Depending on the sill slope of the old window and what type of window it is determines how much I'll subtract to get my unit size. The width is easy because it's almost 99% the same on all window types. I subtract 2.5" from the brick to brick. This gives me my "UNIT" width (not the rough opening). In most cases I subtract the same number from my height with any double or singlehungs. This allows enough room for a 2x4 or 2x6 under the new window. Most of these windows have a lip of sheetrock or plaster that comes up under the old window that allows this new board without altering the inside opening. By placing this board under the new window we have something to nail the bottom nail fin to. If ordered correctly the new windows nail fins should lay right back in the existing opening without to many issues. We then bend our own custom capping to cover the nail fins by snapping it into the accessory grooves around the window. Ounce completed and caulked you'd never know it was a new window. I would strongly recommend a professional on this kind of replacement. The money would be well spent. Good Luck!!!