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Framing materials for an outdoor bar

9 years ago

We're planning to build an outdoor bar and would love some advice about materials. The plans we have call for spruce 2x3's to be used for the framing with the exception of pressure treated to be used where the structure will have contact with the ground. Cedar boards will be installed over this. Wondering if it would be wiser to use all pressure treated lumber for the framing?? And would oak plywood covered with marine varnish be sufficient for the top? We'd really like to do this "right"!

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Comments (3)

User
9 years ago
Several red flags with your plan.

First, plywood/spar(marine) varnish for a horizontal surface is about the worst combination possible. Not only would that combo need recoating almost yearly, it will warp within 12 months or after the spring rains.

Solution? Use exterior ply for the top and overlay tile with waterproof grout. Or use metal sheeting(a single piece) bent over the edges. Or concrete cast in place. Or another water proof idea.

That means a 2x3 constructed frame is too light weight. Needs to be 2x4 with bracing/construction sufficient to support whichever top you choose.

As long as you install the siding properly, regular construction lumber is fine---your(or a neighbor's) house is built the same way.

Contact with the ground. Does that mean concrete patio? Or does that mean dirt? Two completely different means of construction. Concrete patio installation could be PT lumber base installed with Tapcon screws(using a hammer drill for the necessary holes). Or powder actuated nails.

In dirt means digging piers to the frost line and a much different base design.

It may sound as if I am making the project unnecessarily complicated, but long lasting construction has to be done so the structure will withstand nature.
christnrn
Original Author
9 years ago
Handymac, thank you so much. Your input and guidance is exactly what I am looking for! I'm fine with however complicated this gets, just really don't want to put time and effort into a project done incorrectly.

The bar will be placed on brick pavers. I like the idea of tile for the top very much. Do you see any problem with finishing the cedar siding with the marine varnish or should we consider another option? Thanks again!
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Out Door Bar!!! now thats a topic I can get into. I have done several for the Wallets. I build them like a cabanit but a lot more attention to seam detail. Cdx 3/4 plywood for the box all joints with tightbond 111 /ss screws. Face the outside with say in your case T&G clear 3/4 cedar or if you really want to get at it glue up ipe 1x6 into pannels and face the cab with those glued and clamped to the box. Build the doors the same way but install seam bead where they close and solid brass hardware. Put the cab on a 3'' toekick. For the top do the same thing glue up 3/4 ipe into a pannel fasten a 3'' drip edge to the bottom of it fasten from underneith thru the 45 % angle braces on the top of the box. Hand rub several coats of twp inbetween 100 grit wet sanding till the surface is simi gloss. Do the finish exposed to the sun twp wont set up with out uv,could use a uv lamp. One very cool thing put a copper u channel all around the top let it go green. The ice maker and refridge can be had on line buttttttt they both require Ventalation,very important, so install little fans on a auto heat switch vented to the outside of the Cab. None of this will work unless>>> you stock the fridge with Tecate while the thing is cranked up to high with a bottle of Jose Cuerovo Especial right next to the frozen shot glases and have the JonMon and his Biker Buddes over.
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WOW!! that is great! the tiles you chose really complement your pavers. our pavers are the same colors, but are an odd squared-off keyhole-shape. imagine an octagon w/a small square on one flat side. what kind of concrete adhesive did you use? how did you get the faux finish effect on the concrete? i saw the color additive; did you wipe some on in some areas while it was still wet? i was beginning to think we just couldn't get this done & have it look nice. now i'm inspired! let's hope we don't have any hurricanes this year to impede our progress! thanks so much!
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After the original wood rotting out, my city replaced the slats in the public park benches with ipe. Hard, dense, and heavy, it's stood up very well to the weather, salt spray from the snowplows, direct sun, etc., turning to a nice even gray color. It's going to outlast the cast aluminum frames. If you build a light construction, I think they will not get too heavy. Teak is another good choice, but quite expensive. I'd also recommend doing a mock up / prototype in cheaper wood prior to starting in on your project. Stool samples, if you will. :-) Here is a link that might be useful: stool sample This post was edited by bobsmyuncle on Sat, Jan 26, 13 at 18:45
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Functionally, it would work better without gusseting being in the way. But just make sure the L-brackets really are strong enough to support the cantilever. Underneath, I don't think it needs anything under other than framing. You don't want to block of anyone's access to where they can paste their bubblegum. :-) Just the edges need covering ... which, for me, would not be stone. It would be a contrast material since no one would ever actually build out of stone in a cantilever like that. It would look like it would break off in a heartbeat. You have to convince the viewer that it actually is strong. It shouldn't look like a material doing something that that material can't possibly do. In the top illustration the top material is wafer thin, which makes it look cheap. Let the top be a solid, beefy piece. It might have a surrounding edge that turns down.
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User
9 years ago
Cedar will naturally gray if left unfinished(as will several mother wood species used for siding/outdoor use.

The addition of a finish, like spar varnish(with UV protectant additives) will retain the color(natural or stained/dyed) longer. The spar finish will degrade and need to be refinished periodically---probably every 2-3 years. Light sanding(difficult with rough cedar) and recoating is the usual procedure).

A better idea might be painting with transparent paint. (I'll wait as bit for you to digest that statement).

Most paint companies have several tint base formulations. Because the wide range of colors requires different formulas.

I am making a walnut cross(8' tall) and applying Sherwin Williams Ultra deep tint base without any color added. The base dries clear.

That surprised the SW store manager. He had to try it.

Paint protects better than varnish/etc.

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