Capacitor for Bench Top Drill Press
bigface
14 years ago
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Jon1270
14 years agoblindstar
14 years agoRelated Discussions
Drilling Tea Cups or Tea Pots?
Comments (9)Here's the link to a similar thread. Scroll down to see photos of different drill bits. I use a one inch diamond bit like the one in the bottom photo, which is about $30 at HD and Lowes, but will drill a couple of hundred holes if you don't let it overheat. If one inch doesn't make a large enough bird hole, they come in larger sizes. These bits are simple to use and drill through china, ceramic, glass, pottery, just about any material pots are made from. Follow the directions on the package to minimize breakage. Linda Here is a link that might be useful: Drill bit info...See MoreReplacing Bluestar igniters and spark module (36-inch RNB)
Comments (38)It's been a long time since I thought about this. I was having an issue recently that I think was probably just water in an igniter (overflow or from a pot put back on the stove to dry after cleaning). I'd been meaning to check back and remind myself what I did and maybe update if I change something out. I did notice that the screws attaching the igniters were pretty corroded. That may have been a bad material choice on my part. My quick and dirty troubleshooting would be to trade igniters from a working burner to a nonworking burner to decide between module and igniter. If the same burner still doesn't work, you might also check out the wiring to see if it's been pinched or otherwise has a problem. That's my mute-the-work-conference-call-and-type-real-quick response....See MoreDrill Press advice
Comments (2)One consideration with a drill press is that when the arbor is extended full depth, say 4", it causes the most stress at the depth, on the bearings. If you buy a cheapy, with cheap bearings, they will be ruined in short order by the chattering. Higher quality of all materials equals higher price. I like to buy a tool only once, so I spend the extra money....See Morewood bench w/unsupported front?
Comments (4)I'd be surprised if there was such a thing as a a standardized set of front-legless radio workshop bench plans, but it should be easy enough to improvise. I don't think metal plates or hangars are necessary, either. For the top surface I might build a ladderlike structure, much like wall framing, from 2x3s or 2x4s. Make sure to space the "studs" of this miniature wall so that they DO NOT line up with the studs in your house's wall. Drill clearance holes through one of the long sides and drive some nice, long screws through them, through the plaster and into the wall studs, making sure to keep the member that's going against the wall nice and level. Cut the verticals a bit longer than the width of the top surface and screw them to the wall too, also into the studs, pressing each vertical tightly up against the bottom of the frame. That top surface will still be sagging at this point, but you'll level it up as you install the 45-degree braces. Fasten the top of each brace to the horizontal frame, in line with one of the verticals, then raise the front edge of the frame until it is level front-to-back, and screw through the bottom of the brace into the vertical piece on the wall. Finally, screw some sort of sheet good down onto the top of it -- Plywood, OSB... whatever gives you a suitable surface. A word of warning about this sort of arrangement -- this will make a very rigid, acoustically-conductive connection between bench and wall. If any of your electronics tend to buzz, you may find the wall becomes an amplifier. I have a small disc sander sitting on a similar structure in my shop, and it's surprising how loud it makes that otherwise quiet machine, even on the other side of the wall....See Morebrickeyee
14 years agobigface
14 years agobrickeyee
14 years agobigface
14 years agoblindstar
14 years agobrickeyee
14 years agobigface
14 years agobrickeyee
14 years agoDiane Berg
6 years agotoxcrusadr
6 years agotoxcrusadr
6 years agolast modified: 6 years ago
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Jon1270