Welcome to my world. I deal with a reported vehicle problem similar to this on almost a daily basis. Most of the time before they get to me they usually have already had a few hundred dollars worth of parts thrown at them. First order of business is to figure out what you are losing. Even the "no codes" is a clue. Inside the repair industry techs are very much left to find their own way. Call it the price to be paid, for the money saved when people use discount tire stores ect. To that end, there really are very few techs that can afford to invest the time and effort to learn how to diagnose your car's problem, let alone invest in the equipment to support the effort. Here is the routine that must be followed. First how often does it happen and under what conditions? You actually started to describe it occuring when the car is hot, and that is great. Now lets really narrow it down. How far must the car be driven for a tech like myself to expect that I would experience a failure event? How long of a time will the failure event last? Does the car restart right away when it dies? Does it die while cruising down the highway, or while slowing to a stop? Does it die when accelerating? Does it happen randomly in any or all of the previous conditions? You started talking about disabling the decel or anti-diesel solenoid on the Toyota carbureted car in your second response. Throw that information away, it has no bearing on what the Crown Victoria is doing now. When someone tries to make a comparison like that I call the outcome "Tainted Intuition". If you would show up here at my shop with your car, and lets say you already replaced a few hundred dollars worth of parts, I would stop you from telling me what you have already done. I don't want to know. The reason is you may have easily built a second (or maybe even a third) problem into the vehicle over top of the first one, and the challenge the public holds pro's to is to actually find not only the initial problem, but to not let any others slip by undetected as well, even if the owner is responsible for adding the problem! If I start with a fresh perspective, I won't succumb to the habit of assuming that the "XXXX" sensor is new and it was doing this before it was replaced, so it cannot possibly be the problem. The truth is, it absolutely can still be the problem for any number of reasons. There is a very logical routine that must be followed for every diagnosis, the problem is many don't see what routine to follow until after the problem is found, if they even actually see it then. That's one of the most difficult classes that I teach techs today, how to use a more logical, strategy based routine to perform diagnostics in an efficient manner. So here is where you take your first step. Why is the no code actually important? Name a couple things that could cause the vehicle to shut down without the computer detecting the shut down that occured was a problem. When the shut down occured, again how long does it take to re-start the engine? This gives me a chance to predict how much time I actually have to perform the diagnostics during each failure event. When shut down occurs are you losing fuel? That could be from fuel pressure loss, as well as injector trigger. What about Spark? Spark is measured by the ignition systems ability to jump a tester that requires 25,000v to jump the gap, not just from a wire to the valve cover.. Are you losing both spark and fuel? Does your check engine light come on as soon as the car quits? Does the check engine light NOT come on when attempting to restart the car? Can the imminent stall be prevented by using the throttle, in the event the stall occurs during decel. This vehicle does have scan data even though the PCM isn't setting a code. Scan data will report trends which are used to see if the computer is compensating for some type of a problem. What are long and short trem fuel trims at idle, cruise, moderate accel, and decel? What is the reported spark timing under those same previous conditions? What is the scanned BARO reading, and what altitude are you at? What are the IAC counts? That's the start. There are no silver bullets to kill this gremlin. You'll have to learn how to work through this just like a tech does. Oh BTW. If you take more than one crack at this imagine what you (or others) would be saying about a shop that didn't fix it the first visit. Picture yourself in a shop and this car is sitting in your bay, for the second, or third time. Now you have to figure it out and fix it, and you not even going to be paid for the time that you spend because you guaranteed it would be done right the first time!

Seems fine to me. What about the hole? That tiny spot? If it bothers you just patch it with compound or painter's caulk. No, no protection needed from spray. If it were needed then everything in your kitchen would need to be outdoor rated. Just so you know, if something electric gets wet it does NOT automatically blow up or short out.

Definitely what Kudzu said. You will need to check for each parcel that you are considering, as cost will vary from one to another. To give you an example, I built a home that was 3/4 mile from the nearest electric line. I had to pay the utility for the entire cost to bring the power to my house. As other users built homes along that line they had to pay a pro-rated portion of that initial cost, and the utility reimbused me. So the buyer who built on the first lot only had to pay for 50' of the line, but the buyer who built at the 1/2 mile point paid a much bigger connection fee. Every parcel is different, and you may find that some already have the water meter installed and paid and some don't.

Since you don't have any experience managing a project of this magnitude you definitely need a GC. There are also some very good subcontractors who will only work with GC's. As with all home improvement projects, the best advice I can give you is to spend a lot of time planning and be sure to have all fixtures, cabinets, etc. on site before you start tearing things apart. Especially now as there are shortages of some types of materials. As soon as the container from China with the ** pick a material ** is empty, you have to wait for the next one. Good contractors are also in high demand. Ten years ago we waited almost a year for the one we wanted to have time to work on our project. It could be even worse now.