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Electrical Wiring

pop up electrical outlet for kitchen island

16 years ago

I was watching HGTV and so a electrical outlet that poped up

out of the island (hidden until needed) I was wondering if

anyone knows where I can find something like this.

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Comments (9)

rjoh878646
16 years ago
wiremold/legrand manufacturers them. See the link for the hgtv website description.

Here is a link that might be useful: pop up recptacles
heimert
16 years ago
There are plenty of these. Keep in mind that they don't generally satisfy the code requirement for an outlet on the island.

(I hadn't seen the kitchen specific one on the link below before)

Here is a link that might be useful: A bunch more from Mockett
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pop-up island outlet recommendations?
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Comments (1)
There's only one game in town: Mockett & Co. Every single one you see anywhere is derived from this. They are nowhere near 500 either. Around $150 shipped! Here is a link that might be useful: power pole
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help!! must order now!! pop up electric outlet
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Comments (9)
Igloo, It appears that the PUFP-CT-BK is a fully Code-compliant way to put a required receptacle into a countertop. Even so, it has apparently been rejected by at least one inspector (who used reasoning that didn't follow the Code). When you do something that's out of the ordinary, it's never a complete slam-dunk that the building department won't balk at it, even it any reasonable person can see that it's Code-compliant. The Mockett "grommet" doesn't meet Code for several reasons. So one would expect that one's chances with the PUFP-CT-BK are better than with the Mockett. I don't think that adjusting the depth of the shelf would make any difference, at least not at the 18" point. The 18" refers to the distance from the sink to the corner behind it. In your case, the question is whether the inspector will accept the position that the step up is the "wall" behind the sink (in which case the magic distance is 12", because the distances are 18" to a corner or 12" to a parallel wall). If it's a "wall," then the next question is whether the section behind the step is a "counter" or a "shelf." There is no requirement for outlets on shelves, but there is for counters. And I know of no formal definitions of the two, so it's totally the inspector's judgment call as to what you have there. Have you talked with your building department about this? And do you currently have a working relationship with them? In my opinion, the thing to do, if you know them well enough to have a frank conversation with them, is to present them with the problem, say "this is the best solution that we've been able to come up with", and see if they're OK with that. If you're not comfortable with that, I'd suggest going with the PUFP-CT-BK in back corner (or close to it), and take the position (nicely) that what you have is completely Code-compliant if they question it. . To address this from a slightly different place, I don't see any Code requirement for an outlet in your "step", a few inches behind the sink. The Code clearly doesn't require that (who told you that it does?). The only question I see is whether you need an outlet in the corner. I think you mentioned that you actually want one there, because there is something you want to plug in there? Or was it a rationalization of, "Well, if I really have to put one there, I guess it's OK because I could plug the X in there."? If you really want an outlet there, I think you're in pretty good shape. Also, you might want to poke around the Lew Electric web site. I believe they have some "floor pocket" type receptacles that sit below the surface, and just the cord comes up through a notch in the cover. That could be really slick in your setup. (You've have to verify that the particular unit would be Code-compliant. The key issue here is that the outlet not be sitting flat with its face pointing up, because the Code doesn't allow that on counters (but does on floors).)
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In counter outlet: Countertop Box Pop-Up
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Comments (12)
You want the cut outs in the granite made in the shop on the CNC machine or with a water jet. Jimmy and his grinder on site are going to have to make the stone significantly weaker to get a nice square. You don't want "square" square either. A bit oversized with radii in the corners is much stronger, like the bit on a CNC machine would make. I broke a backsplash while removing it because of the over-cutting that was done by hand to make the duplex receptacle hole. Fortunately this stone was quite forgiving.
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Comments (1)
Btw The countertop goes through the two spaces with a 12” overhang into dining.
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shannonplus2
16 years ago
Here is the discussion on the Message board of NACHI (the National Association of Certified Home Inspectors). The second page of the thread is particularly relevant - seems like most are saying they wouldn't be OK with it meeting Code.

Setting aside that the Power Gromett would likely not pass Code Inspection, there were some threads on the Kitchens Forum (since fallen off) about the difficulty of cutting the hole in the countertop for these grommets. If the hole is not cut absolutely precisely right, with little margin for error, the grommet either won't fit, or there'll be too much room and things will fall through.

Here is a link that might be useful: NACHI Forum Discussion on Power Grommets
joed
16 years ago
I read through that discussion and no one picked up on the fact that the unit is only rated for 15 amps. Counter receptacles are 20 amps.
normel
16 years ago
In the US, the circuit has to be 20A, the receptacles can be 15A as long as there is more than one. And I read the first link as having 15 OR 20A receptacles available.
billhart
16 years ago
Wow. The guys on that inspectors forum seem to take great joy in finding interpretations making something illegal. So you might have some trouble getting it past your local inspector and would need to ask beforehand.

It looks to me like it should meet the intent if you had enough of them to match the standard fixed receptacle requirement, and if the UL testing covered the specific type of installation.

I don't see why they are comparing this to an extension cord from another room. If the UL testing covered the flexible cord as part of the device, I see no added hazard. You aren't going to overload it, walk on it, or trip over it. Some of them even seemed to be ok with the safety of the cord, but wouldn't count it as meeting the requirement for a kitchen counter. Seems to me if you have the required number always available for use, how it is connected is unimportant.
paredown
14 years ago
My extended countertop is under a a low window & I could not add a wall outlet to meet the 4' rule without hitting framing behind the wall.

Looks like the Mockett receptacle will not meet the requirements for the 4' rule since it comes with a cord, and hence is considered a "tap".

I found this pop-up one from LEW that does have the UL code that will meet the countertop requirement--although it is not cheap, I have no other choice. Look partway down the page for the PUP-CT-BK (black) or PUP-CT-SS for stainless. Still checking the install details

Here is a link that might be useful: LEW pop-up Receptacle
brickeyee
13 years ago
"I don't see why they are comparing this to an extension cord from another room."

The kitchen counter receptacles are a very specific code rule, and the cordage for a plug in item is not generally allowed in concealed permanent installations.

Since they are cord and plug connected they do not meet the intent of the NEC for permanent receptacles serving the kitchen wall-counter space.
hexus
13 years ago
why are you quoting and replying to a post from Feb of 2008?

That bored?

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