Confused about what windows to buy
j4ino
10 years ago
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mmarse1
10 years agoEllis Mayhew LLC
10 years agoRelated Discussions
still confused about onions more I read more confused
Comments (10)Onionology is complicated. Will try to clarify a little: First a little background: "onion" is a huge catch-all imprecise category encompassing a highly diverse clan, allium cepa and other allium species as well. What we are talking about here are bi-annual bulbing onions, grown from seed. All varieties of bulbing onions ultimately derive from the so-called "spanish" onion. They fall into two rough categories, long-day and short-day, based on how much daylight there is around the solstices where the plant is growing. So bulbing onions are highly sensitive to photo period. The first most important thing to know is whether your latitude is "short" day or "long" day. As it happens, Kentucky is kind of in the middle, either might work though long day is probably more likely to do well. There are also a few hybrid varieties called "intermediate" day that might do best of all for you. Short-day varieties are sown in fall and come to full size in late spring. They require more than just low latitude, they also require a mild winter climate, about z7b or warmer, so some regions of KY might work and others not. Long-day are sown soon after the winter solstice and planted out in early spring and are full size in mid to late summer, depending. An exception is the walla-walla which is adapted to the PNW and I think there may be one or two others long-days that can be fall-sown in mild northern climes. So the infamous "sets" are small bulbs grown from seed and then planted to grow for the plant's second season. The plant really wants to bolt and grow seed rather than a bulb. Sets are a scam perpetrated by seed companies. They are mostly a waste of time and space. Buy plants grown from seed in texas next year, they come at just the right time for planting out and the results will be far better....See MoreBuying Cast Iron Oven - Confused About Staub's Insides?
Comments (3)Of course you need two, or three, or more....Once you start you want them all LOL! How much were the 8 rounds and the 5 rounds there? Staub's interior enamel is rough enough to take a seasoning even though it's enameled. The pores fill with polymerized oil, and it becomes more nonstick with use as they say. Le Creuset's Satin Black also does that, but Staub is much prettier....See MoreWhoKnew: Confused about Window wood v alum questions
Comments (6)Thank you for referencing the post regarding the quality of old wood windows. Your issue with the sash weight cords can be easily remedied by carefully removing the interior wood casing, or removing the small "doors" held in place by one screw in the side jambs (often this feature was not available). Either of these options would allow access to the weights within the wall cavity. The weights are attached to the cord/rope by a simple knot, and the sash contains a mortise on the sides. The opposite end of the rope also contains a knot and a small nail to secure the knot/rope to the sash within the wood mortise. A new cord/rope can be purchased from your local hardware store and cut to the appropriate lengths required for proper travel. Be sure to oil the wheel assembly mounted to the top area of the jamb, or remove the wheel assembly before the cord is replaced and clean all paint residue before applying oil. Another simple maintenance item would include taking a bar of paraffin wax and rubbing it up and down within the jamb pocket where the sash slides up and down. This will allow the sashes to travel up and down with much less effort and may help remedy your "stuck" issue once the sashes have been "un-stuck". The "sticky" sashes may simply be due to the paint bonding to itself within the jamb pocket. The wax will solve this problem too. Many old structures have moved or settled over the years and that often caused window frames to become out-of-square. This situation does not allow the square sashes to "seat" properly within the frame, thus allowing air travel around the sashes. If this is minor, I have removed sashes and sawn a small kerf in the bottom of the lower sash and top of the upper sash and installed a compressible bulb type of weather-strip material used with modern wood windows. This provides compression when the sashes are closed and fills the void left by small differences in sash alignment to the frames. On a larger scale, wooden storm windows can be manufactured to fit the exterior side of the original double hung window (interior side if casements are used). The advantages of this "modification" are numerous compared to complete window replacement. Less mess and waste, shorter on site work time, less expense due to limited on-site labor, etc. Essentially, the most difficult aspect is making cardboard templates of the existing windows since the frames may no longer be square in the openings, and determining the pitch of the existing wooden window sill. We have often removed trim and re-set the existing windows square in the openings when there has been substantial movement/settling over the years. The storm windows would be manufactured off-site and may contain modern low-e insulating glass, if preferred. The frames would be made of a solid wood that is resistent to rot or decay. This could be cedar, cypres, mahogany, teak, etc.; take a look at what wooden boat manufacturers use in their construction for an idea on what wood to use. The edge of the new storm window frame should contain a rabbet on three sides that allows the frame to wrap the existing exterior window sash stop. This area will also receive a sawn kerf to accept a bulb weather-strip. The bottom of the storm panel is beveled to match the existing pitch of the wood window sill, and also receives a kerf and weather-strip. Once installed, the storm panel protects the existing window during cold months, provides energy efficient glazing compatible with modern windows, and provides air infiltration sealant through the use of multiple weather-stripping. This will likely alleviate your concerns about moisture and mildew on the exterior side of the original wood sashes. If condensation occurs, it will likely be on the new storm panel which is a marine-grade wood species. The aesthetic value in retaining original windows and wavy glass is sometimes tremendous. The cost saving value may be found in less on-site labor, but also in potential resale value due to the greater aesthetics in the original detailing. Among some additional advantages, this may be a good approach for many homeowners. In regards to the lead-based paint issue, I have never been too concerned about it, as it has been determined to be unhealthy when consumed and I've never thought of eating the flaked off pieces of old paint. Obviously, if very small children are present during paint removal, my opinion of lead-based paint would be different. I cannot imagine how much old paint I've scraped or sanded over my lifetime, but I've never given it much thought. Opinions may vary on this issue. On the same topic, I agree that lead-based paints did/do provide a more durable finish. Lead-based paints are still approved for commercial uses, such as for repainting steel bridges and such, as it is pretty important to protect such structures from rust. This may allow one to conclude that lead-based paints are more durable and may not be as highly toxic to normal human interaction. Lastly, regarding the difference in the two wood species, both pine and fir are considered "moderately" resistant to rot. Douglas fir may hold slight advantages due to some additional oils in the wood, but it is likely a longevity difference of today versus next week in terms of when they will each succumb to rot. If you're set on replacing the existing windows, an extruded aluminum clad-wood window can offer two benefits in that it is low maintenance on the exterior side and the heavy extrusion often offers additional structural integrity. Check window cut sections to view the amount of metal used, how it is applied to the wood, and how the aluminum is joined at the corners. I avoid clad wood windows that use screws, staples or glue to hold the metal to the wood. Due to expansion differences between unlike materials, these two should not be mechanically fastened to each other or it may be prone to separation at the corner joints. Physical attachments are a smaller concern, but still provide some bond between the unlike materials. Both instances may allow water penetration behind the cladding at some point in the life of the product, thus creating a hidden decay problem. We also don't use clad-wood windows that don't fully wrap the exterior frame with an extrusion, particularily at the sill. Any exposed wood in this area has proven to rot prematurely. I hope that you have found this information helpful....See MoreConfused about flooring.... (Super confused.)
Comments (17)Floorman here 40 years experience professional installer First. You have a bigger leak under floor if it buckling. Sound to me you would be better to have vinyl plank installed instead of wood. If you want a professional job it will cost you $10 plus for wood and labor no furniture. Labor alone is $5 in Missouri. The cheap hardwood is all going to be soft easy to scratch. Vinyl plank would be cheaper. Labor is $1.50 to $2.00 sq ft. Its glue down or it can be loose laid if you buy that type. If a peace gets scratched easier to replaced even for DIY but that peace will have to be glued. Vinyl plank looks like real wood now days. Water won’t hurt it as long as not a major leak. If your on concrete for wood or vinyl a moisture test should be taken first to see if there’s any hydrostatic pressure if there is it shouldn’t lay either one would have to fix problem first. With vinyl plank if it is glued you might need 1/4” underlayment on sub floor. But loose snap in vinyl plank you shouldn’t need underlayment. If your floor is wavy so will the vinyl plank look. Just my advice....See MoreHomeSealed
10 years agoj4ino
10 years agoWindows on Washington Ltd
10 years agommarse1
10 years agomillworkman
10 years agoEllis Mayhew LLC
10 years agoKarateguy
10 years agommarse1
10 years agoOut of the Woods Inc.- Window & Door Specialists
10 years agoTXBluebonnet11
10 years agomillworkman
10 years agommarse1
10 years agojenjtampa
4 years agoInland Homes
3 years agoJason Mallard
3 years ago
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