Thank you for referencing the post regarding the quality of old wood windows. Your issue with the sash weight cords can be easily remedied by carefully removing the interior wood casing, or removing the small "doors" held in place by one screw in the side jambs (often this feature was not available). Either of these options would allow access to the weights within the wall cavity. The weights are attached to the cord/rope by a simple knot, and the sash contains a mortise on the sides. The opposite end of the rope also contains a knot and a small nail to secure the knot/rope to the sash within the wood mortise. A new cord/rope can be purchased from your local hardware store and cut to the appropriate lengths required for proper travel. Be sure to oil the wheel assembly mounted to the top area of the jamb, or remove the wheel assembly before the cord is replaced and clean all paint residue before applying oil.

Another simple maintenance item would include taking a bar of paraffin wax and rubbing it up and down within the jamb pocket where the sash slides up and down. This will allow the sashes to travel up and down with much less effort and may help remedy your "stuck" issue once the sashes have been "un-stuck". The "sticky" sashes may simply be due to the paint bonding to itself within the jamb pocket. The wax will solve this problem too.

Many old structures have moved or settled over the years and that often caused window frames to become out-of-square. This situation does not allow the square sashes to "seat" properly within the frame, thus allowing air travel around the sashes. If this is minor, I have removed sashes and sawn a small kerf in the bottom of the lower sash and top of the upper sash and installed a compressible bulb type of weather-strip material used with modern wood windows. This provides compression when the sashes are closed and fills the void left by small differences in sash alignment to the frames.

On a larger scale, wooden storm windows can be manufactured to fit the exterior side of the original double hung window (interior side if casements are used). The advantages of this "modification" are numerous compared to complete window replacement. Less mess and waste, shorter on site work time, less expense due to limited on-site labor, etc. Essentially, the most difficult aspect is making cardboard templates of the existing windows since the frames may no longer be square in the openings, and determining the pitch of the existing wooden window sill. We have often removed trim and re-set the existing windows square in the openings when there has been substantial movement/settling over the years.

The storm windows would be manufactured off-site and may contain modern low-e insulating glass, if preferred. The frames would be made of a solid wood that is resistent to rot or decay. This could be cedar, cypres, mahogany, teak, etc.; take a look at what wooden boat manufacturers use in their construction for an idea on what wood to use. The edge of the new storm window frame should contain a rabbet on three sides that allows the frame to wrap the existing exterior window sash stop. This area will also receive a sawn kerf to accept a bulb weather-strip. The bottom of the storm panel is beveled to match the existing pitch of the wood window sill, and also receives a kerf and weather-strip. Once installed, the storm panel protects the existing window during cold months, provides energy efficient glazing compatible with modern windows, and provides air infiltration sealant through the use of multiple weather-stripping. This will likely alleviate your concerns about moisture and mildew on the exterior side of the original wood sashes. If condensation occurs, it will likely be on the new storm panel which is a marine-grade wood species.

The aesthetic value in retaining original windows and wavy glass is sometimes tremendous. The cost saving value may be found in less on-site labor, but also in potential resale value due to the greater aesthetics in the original detailing. Among some additional advantages, this may be a good approach for many homeowners.

In regards to the lead-based paint issue, I have never been too concerned about it, as it has been determined to be unhealthy when consumed and I've never thought of eating the flaked off pieces of old paint. Obviously, if very small children are present during paint removal, my opinion of lead-based paint would be different. I cannot imagine how much old paint I've scraped or sanded over my lifetime, but I've never given it much thought. Opinions may vary on this issue.

On the same topic, I agree that lead-based paints did/do provide a more durable finish. Lead-based paints are still approved for commercial uses, such as for repainting steel bridges and such, as it is pretty important to protect such structures from rust. This may allow one to conclude that lead-based paints are more durable and may not be as highly toxic to normal human interaction.

Lastly, regarding the difference in the two wood species, both pine and fir are considered "moderately" resistant to rot. Douglas fir may hold slight advantages due to some additional oils in the wood, but it is likely a longevity difference of today versus next week in terms of when they will each succumb to rot. If you're set on replacing the existing windows, an extruded aluminum clad-wood window can offer two benefits in that it is low maintenance on the exterior side and the heavy extrusion often offers additional structural integrity. Check window cut sections to view the amount of metal used, how it is applied to the wood, and how the aluminum is joined at the corners.

I avoid clad wood windows that use screws, staples or glue to hold the metal to the wood. Due to expansion differences between unlike materials, these two should not be mechanically fastened to each other or it may be prone to separation at the corner joints. Physical attachments are a smaller concern, but still provide some bond between the unlike materials. Both instances may allow water penetration behind the cladding at some point in the life of the product, thus creating a hidden decay problem. We also don't use clad-wood windows that don't fully wrap the exterior frame with an extrusion, particularily at the sill. Any exposed wood in this area has proven to rot prematurely. I hope that you have found this information helpful.

Thank you for another thoughtful response, mcsbldr.

BTW, many swear by Fine Paints of Europe exterior oil paint for its ability to withstand the elements, and supposedly it is not conducive to mold growth. Pricey, but may prove to be well worth it for this limited application since it wears quite well and will greatly extend the time between repaints.

I have another concern which I hope you will provide insight: leaking french doors. We have one French and two in-swing patio doors inset in a wall of windows in 3 rooms. There is no overhang to provide protection nor would installing retractable awning work in heavy wind-driven rains, which is the only conditions we've so far experienced leaks. Besides, we want to maintain the view and natural light.

Part of the problem is caused by the previous owner not caulking or painting and can be easily remedied. Even replacing the weather-stripping is an relatively easy fix.

However, although the doors are wood, there is a metal strip along the bottom which is rusting on the door itself, not the threshold. Also, compared to doors we've had in other houses, the lip against which the operable door seals against appears to be too small to provide a sufficient seal even with new weather-stripping.

How easy is it to correct this design flaw by retrofitting a bigger astragal or do we simply need to replace the doors with better constructed ones? If so, what would you recommend as suitable for mid-Atlantic region?

Thanks.

It is hard for me to envision the exact cause of your door problems, but I'll take a shot at assisting your assessment of the problem.

First, the easiest assessment of the problem with the seal to the double hinged doors (French), and the gap between them, might be determined by checking the reveals between the two panels and each panel to the hinge side frames when in a closed position. The reveals should all be about the same, at approximately 1/8". If not, the best solution is to remove the interior casing and re-shim the door frame directly above and below each hinge until the reveal is tightened between the two panels.

The wood member attached to the secondary door panel that overlaps the primary panel when in a closed position is known as an astragal. Within the astragal, there should be a weather-strip to contact the primary door panel when closed. Your description leads me to believe that the doors are too far apart from each other in the center when closed. If not, then the astragal has been manipulated or simply has been otherwise compromised over the years of service. A replacement wood astragal could simply be remanufactured on a table saw or router table. The existing astragal is a separate component from the door stile (vertical panel member) and should be easy to remove.

In regards to the metal bottom areas of the panels, I assume this metal piece was some type of weather-strip accessory. It may have held a rubber or plastic type of weather-strip. If the metal is rusting, I'd remove it and check for a replacement with a company named Pemco at their online website. I haven't checked with them in a while, but I believe they have detail sheets visible in their architectural section. This company specializes in exterior door weather-stripping, and they provide many different types and applications that may help you retro-fit a new and more durable component to the bottoms of your door panels. Don't give up on the old doors just yet!

Worst case scenario, you may have to retro-fit a new threshold onto the double doors. You didn't mention the existing type, but older retro-fit styles included large screws set in the top side on a wood or metal strip. When turned, these screws allow the "strip" to raise or lower in an effort to make better contain with the door bottoms. Some newer styles offer a different profile, where the door bottoms actually close against a positive stop along the front bottom face of the door, as opposed to the door panel bottoms. The lip on the new threshold contains the weather-strip that the panels now close against, as opposed to closing over the top of the weather-strip. If this style is selected, it should also contains a weep system, so the water pushed against the door bottom will drain away from the building, should it get past the weather-stripping seal. I hope that you have found this information helpful.

Thank you, mcsbldr. I'll follow up on your advice.

Unfortunately, I passed on bum information that I'd been given as the 4-yr old doors are not wood but metal clad. Although we will do our best to salvage them using your suggestions, they may require replacing at some point. We'll be better able to assess if it's worth the investment once winter chill arrives. If they prove to be poorly insulated, what type of enegy-efficient patio door should we consider?

In the past, we've had fiberglass but the climate was warmer than here in the mid-Atlantic. Since we last built, I recall hearing about a newer product with a protective material 6" or so up the sides and along the bottom to thwart moisture problems. Are there any other pointers you can provide for good quality thermal pane doors?

Please know that we homeowners truly appreciate the time and effort you take to help us benefit from your expertise.

The most energy efficient doors are hollow core fiberglass or steel panels. This is due to the hollow void having the ability to be filled with foam. We do not use these doors outside of hidden utility areas, due to the aesthetic value we attempt to achieve.

Solid wood doors are normally used in our new construction for the main entry. Although not as energy efficient as foam-core doors, the aesthetic value is unmatched and the detailing and styling is unlimited. We also provide multi-point hardware for solid wood doors in order to retain a tight seal on the full perimeter of the jamb. If full glass doors are desired, we use clad wood style doors, also with multi-point hardware, regardless of the engineered wood cores that most offer.

Our clad wood window and door supplier list currently includes Eagle, Kolbe and Marvin. Any one of these three will provide an extruded aluminum, clad wood door frame and panel. We feel confident in the Design Pressure ratings of these manufacturer's products.

However, we are purchasing window packages that also include our door requirements, so it is a matter of convenience to purchase from one of the three mentioned above. There are likely to be pure door manufacturers that may have something to fit your requirements more precisely, while still offering the test ratings offered by the three window and door companies noted.

Generically, our door specifications require stainless steel or brass-based hinges, strike plates and any other hardware components. We do not prefer to use the adjustment type of hinge, as commercially rated hinges provide more durability. We also prefer to utilize a minimum of four hinges per panel, regardless of minimal size heights. On double doors, we prefer a positive stop on the head and threshold to facilitate door closure location for the head/foot bolts on the secondary panel. Engineered cores with a heavy veneer are fine, as it promotes a straighter panel with less movement. Extruded aluminum exteriors and tall bottom rails for snow loads. Lastly, some type of weep system in the threshold is also a requirement.

mcsbldr, this is wonderfully helpful. Thank you for providing such detailed info so that we can better understand what to look for when the time comes.

If you will, please address longevity and efficiency of sliding glass doors compared to clad French doors. From a furniture placement perspective, it may be more practical to install a glass wall with 8' x 12' French look-alike sliders in one room unless there is sufficient reason why operable French doors are preferable. Of course, if sliders aren't considered to be a good option, we can accomplish our space utilization goal by reversing the hinge to outward swing French doors. This area gets minimal snow usually so an outward swing seems reasonable. I know track maintenance is one issue with sliders, but there may be other aspects I haven't considered in weighing the two possibilities.

It sounds as if your company takes pride in producing a quality product. In our previous home we installed, independent of our builder, dual-paned leaded glass inserts in mahogany entry doors which were quite beautiful. In our new community, nearly all the homes have fiberglass entry doors, albeit a few with not quite so lovely chipped (obscure) glass, regardless of the home's price-point. Since many of these are McMansions built by various contractors, I thought the prevalence of cheaper fiberglass doors was due to the colder climate. It may be that the builders just provided the minimum they could get away, but it's disappointing to see the fake wood-grained (especially the stained ones since it's obvious even from the street that it's an impostor) fiberglass doors on otherwise nice homes. Although we don't want to over-improve, especially in a declining market, If wood is not problematic (other than normal sealant maintenance), eventually we may break the mold and install a mahogany entry door. Since we don't have a huge budget at this point, the leaking rear system and other interior projects take precedence.

BTW, which state is your company located?