I'm just tailing onto this thread to ask about length of light bar v. cabinet widths. Based on what I've read and what the electrician has done so far (3 romex wires (connected to one switch) sticking out of drywall approx where cabinets will go), now I need to order the lights to install. From right to left, where the countertop starts (see diagram) I have a 34" cabinet, range hood (which actually overhangs on both sides by 3"), then a 34", then a 45 degree angled corner (back sides 24"). So I'm wondering about the Philips (which comes in 9, 21 and 39" lengths). Is one 21" sufficient for the 34" cabinet on the right or should I fill the space with a 21 + 9? (Can I connect two closely together like this with one wire?) On the left of the stove, I could use a 39" and go into the corner under the cabinet and then probably add a 9" either at a 90 degree to the back run or follow the angle of the front of the cabinet. Any comments and suggestions for improvement welcome. Thanks!

The problem with using a single transformer is the high current used by low voltage lights. Concealed wiring (in walls) is also required to conform to the NEC rules for an 'approved method' and is often excessive large for individual pucks (or even a couple together) and to small for the main transformer output at high current. Pegasus Lighting should have a transformer. You need to size it based on how many watts the lights pull (and them add some margin to prevent voltage droop in the transformer). Voltage drop in the wiring to the pucks can also be an issue. Here is a link that might be useful: Pegasus Lighting

That is a question best addressed by your local building inspector. If the inspector takes the wording in the NEC literally, then you are out of luck using the sleeve. You should take the data sheet to the inspector & get his/her position clarified before starting work. However, you can use the Romex without using boxes. I haven't heard of any inspectors that require a box to make the transition from low voltage cable to romex.

I would check with Seagull before putting it in a cabinet! Transformers generate heat and it may be considered a fire hazard to contain it. If you're worried about location, and it's an unfinished basement under the kitchen, you can always run it remote. Seagull specifies that a "good quality" dimmer will work with their transformers. I get a slight hum from my 300W transformer but am told that is normal. You can only hear it when it's dead quiet in the room.