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What kind of finish to use for doors and molding?

17 years ago

I have lots of experience finishing our new kitchen cabinets. (We got them unfinished so that I could stain them to match the dark wood of the rest of the house.) I've notice over the years that the pieces of millwork that I've sanded and re-stained don't hold up. I never finished them. Polyurethane, even satin, is too glossy for the look of this old house. Is there another finish I could use? The house is 110 years old and there is something on top of the original stain that just eats up my coarse grained sandpaper. It seems like some kind of resin though perhaps they just oiled the wood (???). The wood in question is chestnut and I use a teak stain to match the color on pieces I've needed to strip (a few rooms were painted) or sand down and refinish due to years of gouging - probably when furniture was moved in or out.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

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Comments (4)

brickeyee
17 years ago
"It seems like some kind of resin though perhaps they just oiled the wood (???)."

Probably varnish. Depending on the exact formula the stuff can remain pretty soft and elastic (Spar varnishes) or harden up to very hard stuff.
You can use a satin finish poly, or any of a number of varnish type finishes.
#0000 steel wool will reduce the sheen while leaving a pleasing satin finish once the varnish (or poly) is hardened.
Non-woven abrasives can also be used to rub out the finish to the desired degree of gloss. Satin finishes use addatives to achieve the desired gloss, but mechanical works fine also.

Even shellac has been used to finish wood trim. Usually one of the darker shades. Since the trim is not normally touched on a regular basis a couple coats of shellac can actually make a nice finish that is easily repaired by cleaning with paint thinner, then applying another coat of shellac.
harryshoe zone6 eastern Pennsylvania
17 years ago
Brickeyee,
Would you be so kind as to elaborate on how to reduce the sheen when using polyurethane.

Do you recommend a light "buffing" with the #0000 steel wool as the final step? I am trying to deal with a few small shiney spots where too much product has accumulated. Probably because I am working in a cold garage (it can't be that I was sloppy!). I've added another coat and would like to tone it down a little. The can directions say to use light sandpapaer between coats, but not steel wool. However, since I'm not trying to rough it up, but instead buff it up, you advice is making a lot of sense.
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brickeyee
17 years ago
Steel wool will dull the gloss on poly down.
If you donot have experience pooly a section of wood and play with it first. The problems are not waiting for the finish to fully cire (wait at least twice as long as the instructions on the can) and rubbing through the finish by being to aggresive with the wool (or any abrasive).
A light touch will dull the gloss while leaving a scratch patten that is uniform and only really observable if you put your nose on the finish.
harryshoe zone6 eastern Pennsylvania
17 years ago
Brickeyee,

The 0000 steel wool did the trick. A light buffing evened out the finish so the "shiney" spots just blended in. The table top came out great. I posted a picture under my "Applying Finish in a Cold Room?" thread. Your tip was a great help.

Thanks.

Harry

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