24V thermostat wire and 110V power line share the top plate hole?
15 years ago
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Power outage nightmare!
Comments (59)Stress: My husband uses Sta-bl in the lawn tractor, mowers and his chain saws and I think he adds something to the gas tank when he pulls the battery out of his steel mistress and puts it up on blocks for the winter, but the generators are kept ready for use year round and run up monthly, so I don't know if he uses it in them or not. But now I'm curious, so will have to ask. My father-in-law took the engine put of an old Case and used it as a generator. It was an amazing Rube Goldberg sort of contraption and made enough noise to wake the dead and had to be started with a hand crank, but produced enough electric power to run a 40 stall milking parlor, with enough left over to operate the lights and the cooler. It ran whenever he needed it for over 50 years. The cows were smart enough to get used to the racket and it didn't bother them but the hens stopped laying for days after every power outage. My mother-in-law used to say that it took a power outtage for her to get the makings for chicken soup. LOL!...See MorePre-wiring new construction for everything...
Comments (7)montekay unless you are superman, 3 days is really not that much time to do all of the wiring you have on your list. i pre-wired my house and it took longer than that. but i learned a few things that might help you out. i would suggest running conduit instead of wires, except in selected spots. you can buy 100 or 200 ft spools of the stuff at home depot or lowes for about 30 bucks or so. the conduit is very easy to work with - 1 person can do the pulling. you will also need a supply of ENT boxes and snap connectors. if you go this route - get your parts early because the big box stores do not stock that much - i cleaned out two HD stores for my parts. you will also need a good drill, plenty of battteries, and sharp drill bits to drill holes for the conduit runs. make sure you clamp the tubes against the studs to prvent kinking when you do your wire pulls later. also - in the basement make sure you leave plenty of excess conduit so that if they put spray foam in the joist cavities, they won't cover up the tubes. for whole house audio the key right now are the speaker wires. you need to get CL3 rated wire if you want to bury that into the walls. i ordered mine from MidSouth cable - it was 16 guage 64 stand wire - very good stuff. you can choose to either put in the speaker boxes now or just run the wires and cut in the speakers later. if you cut in later - make sure you make a good treasure map so you can locate the wires later. to install - just place an ENT box where you want the contoller to go. run conduit from that box down into the basement - run the speaker wire from that same box to the locations for the speakers. once that is done, you can add in whatever digital or analog audio distribution you want. for lighting control, you can put conduit in the locations where you want the controllers to go. Or you can use a wireless system. warning - these systems are not cheap and i would not rush into buying anything until you have really researched the product. again - i suggest conduit. for CCTV - you need to have power & ground plus the cable for the video signal. MidSouth sells a siamese cable that has both integrated into one cable to make pulling easier. i did run some cat5e for voice and data. you probably don't need too many drops becuase of wireless products. you did not mention antenna drops for over the wire HD and radio signals. I put two antennas in my attic and then ran RG-6 from the attic to the basement so I could distribute these signals to any room in the house. my overall strategy was to run wires only to the places that I new I would need connectivity the day we move in. to all other locations i ran conduit. i think you would easily finish that in 3 days if you go this route. and then you can take your time and put in whatever you want - whenever you want. i suggest using 1 inch conduit tubing for structured wires, and 3/4 inch for audio and light controls. use single gang ENT boxes for audio and light contols, use dual gang ENT boxes for multi-media sturctured wires. best of luck...See MoreAngie_DIY et al., wiring question X post
Comments (10)I would recommend that you get one of these non-contact probes. They are great for testing if a circuit is live or not. You just touch it to the outside of the hot wire and it will show a red light and beep if it is live. Non-Contact Voltage Tester RE: Angie_DIY et al., wiring question X post Posted by: gpraceman (My Page) on Thu, May 9, 13 at 12:25 Not sure what happened with my last post. It won't even let me edit it. Here is what I mentioned. Here is a link that might be useful: Non-Contact Voltage Tester RE: Angie_DIY et al., wiring question X post Posted by: Angie_DIY (My Page) on Thu, May 9, 13 at 14:25 I poked a hole in the drywall and found the metal box connected to a 2" x 4" with wires capped with nuts, a properly tied off circuit. Let me take the opportunity to make a PSA: if this is indeed still powered, it is NOT a properly tied off circuit. You are not allowed to cover a junction box that has live wiring in it. (Not that it hasn't been known to happen!) So, it is possible that these wires are live, or it is possible that they were disconnected somewhere "upstream" from this box. You said "x-post," but I don't see a message from you on the wiring forum. I would definitely consult the wiser folks there! (EDIT: I found your question on the bottom of another thread. I would start a new thread on that forum, including the picture you showed us.) Roger what gpraceman said. Let me expound a little. I cannot quite tell what is going on in that box, either. To me, it looks like only 2 wires. I see one white one and one that was formerly red or formerly black. It is conceivable that there is a third one, but am not sure with the shadows, etc. My understanding is that the metal jacket was used, in the bad, old days, as the ground wire. I would hazard a guess (as I think gpraceman implies) that you probably have found the 120 V circuit. The safest thing to do would be to use the non-contact probe that gpraceman references. If it is live, you could determine the circuit breaker that turns it off. Then you could turn it off while setting up the next test, and turn it back on after getting set up. Or just be very careful =8^) If you had a voltmeter, you should (carefully) test the AC voltage: A-between the white wire and the box B-between the black wire and the box, and C-between the white wire and the black wire. If it is a 120V circuit, you should get A=0V, B=120V, C=120V. If it is a 240V circuit, you should get A=120V, B=120V, C=240V. If it is an old 240V circuit without a neutral conductor, don't use it. Call an electrician. This post was edited by Angie_DIY on Thu, May 9, 13 at 14:37 RE: Angie_DIY et al., wiring question X post Posted by: EAM44 (My Page) on Fri, May 10, 13 at 0:45 Thanks so much both of you for your input. It is indeed a 120V with white=neutral, purple=live, and as they are so fond of doing in the midwest, box=metal, as is conduit all the way back to the panel that is grounded = ground, so no ground wire. That non-contact probe looks so cool. Alas, Lowes did not have it. I bought a really cute little multimeter, tested the wires, and attached a 15A outlet today. The readings are as they should be, no reversed polarity, ground is grounded. All looks good. Tomorrow I skimcoat the drywall, then sand and paint. Alarm guy comes Saturday. One more question - there has to be a 240V (not A, forgive me) in that wall somewhere. I really thought that this outlet was capped off properly. The wires were capped, they were in a box, and there was 1" plywood over the box opening to keep someone from nailing into it. I would guess the 240 was handled the same way - is that a problem? The X post was on the wiring forum where the op was instructed to cap off an unused outlet in exactly this way. If I do have to dig and deal with this, I will call a pro. This is out of my league as I have no idea how to kill a live wire. Thanks again. RE: Angie_DIY et al., wiring question X post Posted by: gpraceman (My Page) on Fri, May 10, 13 at 0:56 If they dead ended the wiring in the old gang box for the dryer, I would think that they also dead ended the breaker panel end as well. You should definitely verify that. Does the house still have an electric dryer? RE: Angie_DIY et al., wiring question X post Posted by: Angie_DIY (My Page) on Fri, May 10, 13 at 8:53 The problem wasn't the way the wires were capped; that was proper. The problem was covering up the junction box and drywalling over it. You need to retain access to j-boxes that have live wiring over it. I think it should be clear to you right now (!) why it is a problem to cover it up! The post on the wiring forum was implicitly saying this (in addition to the instructions about capping the wires inside the box). gpraceman: it sounds like they did not disconnect the 120V circuit before covering it up. I see no reason to believe they disconnected the 240V circuit! If you need to find the circuit, I think an electrician will have a tool that allows him or her to trace the wires. I have never used one, but have seen it used once. They attach a device to the wire to be traced, say at the circuit box end. I presume it puts a high-frequency signal on the wire. They can then follow the wire with a receiver device. (Hmm, If that is how it works, I wonder if it works with armored (metal-jacketed) cable....?) RE: Angie_DIY et al., wiring question X post Posted by: EAM44 (My Page) on Fri, May 10, 13 at 9:28 So this box with capped wires should have been covered with a metal plate that sits proud of the drywall, not filled with wood and drywalled over. Got it. What a drag if they did that with the 240 as well. Yes we still have an electric dryer that is now in the basement. Maybe they re-routed the wiring for that? I could just pop the drywall off the entire wall and look. If there is more wiring, I could get the cool non-contact probe and a proper box cover that I drywall around. Would that be correct? I don't mind patching and skimcoating, but hate drywalling, and it sounds like I've got more of it in my future (grumble, expletive deleted). Thanks again so much. RE: Angie_DIY et al., wiring question X post Posted by: gpraceman (My Page) on Fri, May 10, 13 at 12:27 They probably left that 120V circuit live since there were other outlets on that circuit. Still, they should not have buried the junction box behind the wall. If you still have an electric dryer, then they likely disconnected the end of the old line at the breaker to install the new line. I do think that you should try to find the old junction box and make sure it is done proper. Some rental places may have one of those snake cameras that you can use to explore inside your walls by just drilling a small hole in the drywall. That would save you some patching work. RE: Angie_DIY et al., wiring question X post Posted by: Angie_DIY (My Page) on Fri, May 10, 13 at 13:45 gpraceman: Ahh, I see -- you are probably correct that they are much more likely to have disconnected the 240V circuit. It is not like there are scads of 240V, high-current breakers sitting in your breaker box. EAM: Following that argument, I would look in the area of your breaker box (dist. panel) for remnants of the old 240V circuit. Usually, it is a PITA to reroute wiring, so you just disconnect it and leave it in place. You may find a loose or cut-off end near the breaker box, or you may find capped wires in the box itself. Post a Follow-Up Your Name: Your Email Address: Subject of Posting: Message: Optional Link URL: Name of the Link: A copy of your follow-up will automatically be emailed to the original poster. Return to the Kitchens Forum Here is a link that might be useful: Non-Contact Voltage Tester...See MoreComcast strikes again - bad internet cable wiring
Comments (15)Lol the goons. I was at a house the other day where a lady had just moved in and needed electrical changes. She had the cable guy come out, which he was supposed to connect cable phone and internet in her office. She wanted an outlet in closet so that the router could be in there. I had to fish from the electrical outlet over a finsihed basement to the panel cutout. Cable guy had to run his cable across the siding and poke in. My favorite was he shows up and I answer the door in my work clothes and tool belt. He says is ... home? I say no and that I am an electrician working there. He says well are you over the age of 18? (I look kind of young) "Yes". He then enters the house and chuckles "Hah huh, odd this lady would let us guys work in her house all alone" He then ran the cable out of the closet to the desk where he sat the router right in the middle, ran a phone cord right across the floor to the existing phone jack on the other side of the room. I got to re-do everthing after he left....See More- 15 years ago
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