antss, you're making the rather broad assumption that all of us contributing to these forums even live in the same country, let along the same neighbourhood! I have no idea where you live, but in my Canadian city, I need separate circuits for all major appliances (even my microwave shelf required a separate circuit for its plug), make up air for all venting over 250cfm, and kitchen ventilation is definitely required for all new builds and renovations. And you'd better remove your shoes before you enter any private home here! (That's not code, just polite practice.) I only mention this to reinforce the idea that one should not come to a forum like this to get building code information. It varies too widely, and we don't know where anyone lives unless they choose to tell us. Check your local ordinances, or even a reliable contracting company. Then install your appliances in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations if you want to maintain your warranties, plus your home insurance coverage.

The BC electrical code says the fridge "must be on its own circuit, but CAN have a clock outlet also - you know, the old Ozzie and Harriet, clock-above-the-fridge thing. Probably not something you see a lot of these days, with all the cupboards and semi-built-in fridges. I'm surprised the circuit tracers are that cheap, I thought the power ones were quite expensive. I have a couple of telecommunications-type ones, but you have to be able to disconnect one end (as I understand it) and have the ability, technical and otherwise, to ensure power to that circuit is off. The radio in each outlet idea sounds pretty cheap and easy to me...but the lure of gadgets is strong, too. I'll have to relabel/remap my own outlets too, mine aren't that well labelled and I like the idea (you see it in commercial premises) of a label on the outlet that states which circuit breaker and which panel (if there's more than one)

"Cable is supposed to fastened within 12" of a receptacle box." This does not apply to cables fished behind surfaces. Exposed cables require fastening. If you use an old work box with drywall clamps the only hole in the drywall needed is to mount the box. Cut the hole, fish the cable with the connector for the panel already attached into the panel. Install the lock nut in the panel, then feed the cable into the box device box. Fasten the box to the drywall and tighten the internal clamp on the cable. You can even use a regular cable clamp by placing it on the cable if you have box fill issues with the internal cable clamp (same trick as the panel). You strip the cable jacket long enough to feed into the box opening, slip the box into the wall, pull the cable clamp tight into the box using the wires, then fasten the lock nut.

Good take-away info ... thank you both for replying to my request. I debated using a single GFI outlet, and running all outlets off of that outlet, but feel making the whole circuit GFI safer since it is an outdoor circuit. Should be a low ampergae circuit, running occasional fan in summer, and water heater in winter, lights on as needed...so not much power should be needed. All boxes are outdoors rated...!! THWN stranded will definitely be a better choice than UF...!!! Should I include a shut-off at the coop for this circuit...like a 20AMP switch, or is this overkill considering the entire circuit is GFI protected ? Cheers, Clem