My choice would be Integrity if Marvin is too pricey. But that Marvin quote seems REALLY reasonable. MAKE SURE THEY KNOW H!OW TO INSTALL THEM .I would insist upon asking their installlation process, materials, etc. It matters when you are installing high end windows Wood is warm, acoustically superior, solid to the touch and just FEELS better than vinyl. Wood is more versatile painted or stained, can be changed if redecorating. My biggest problem with all the vinyl/PVC in the building industry is its environmentally a nightmare. I have always told people .....windows are life furniture for walls. Sometimes a beautiful wall of windows needs nothing else around them, they can be so beautifully done. And yes your house is beautiful. I would cringe if you choose vinyl. Vinyl is for track homes. Which Yours is not.

I have decided to go the full frame replacement. I have been looking at various types of sill pan flashing. One product that I like (at least the idea behind it) is the Protectowrap Sill Pan Drainage System. It is installed over flexible membrame flashing and it is layer of sloped foam covered in a water wicking material designed to draw any moisture into the flashing and away from the interior of the structure or so it seems. Most methods I have read about use either a metal sill pan, liquid flashing or flexible membrane. The Sill Pan Drainage System seems like an added bit of security assuming your initial flashing and window sealing is done properly. My question is: Is it worth it? I got a quote for 100' (of which I will likely need about 50') for just shy of $250. Most flexible membrane flashing and liquid flashing is about $40-60 for 50-75' depending on width. Any thoughts or perhaps other practical ideas for making the best possible water tight/ optimal draining sill pan? I'm not trying to be cheap, just practical. This product must be special ordered whereas most of the other protecto wrap products can be bought off the shelf leading me to believe that the Sill Pan Drainage System is not commonly used in my area ( Austin TX) either because it is not needed or due to cost or better alternatives .

I'll just make a couple general comments: 1) For the record, my Eagle casements and awnings have been excellent. Installed in 2010 there have had zero issues. That said, when the framer was ready to install I had the Eagle representative inspect the installation of the first window and explain in detail how they needed to be installed. I think that was critical. 2) Not all window designs are the same and although there are general "good practice" installation guidelines like mentioned earlier, each manufacturer has a specific set of installation requirements. It's hard to find framers that know every window, and unfortunately many don't read the enclosed installation protocol. It's my belief that much of the window failures come from not following the manufacturers procedure. Of course, any window can't be expected to survive a faulty architectural design. And when you do have failure, you have the trifecta of blame of the manufacturer, builder (framer), and architect, which usually gets ugly with the client held hostage. I hope this ends happily. Just watch out where the blame is laid.

First, Shicksal, great news. You're coming along really fast. Today is an odd day. At 6:30 this morning I went to Wal-Mart to put money on my debit card and buy a little hotdog roller for this job. My friend who is an electrician is here. I've got my two pendants over the peninsula hung, but learned somehow, the switch to them isn't powered, but the outlets next to them is. He's replaced two dimmers with regular switches. One of the benefits of doing this alone is the onus being off changing my mind. These dimmers just kinda made me crazy, so regular switches they're becoming. I gotta tell you. I'm a walking posterboard for Lutron. Now 15 dimmers, 12 motion sensors, and other fun stuff. Love 'em. He's also going to put in some outlets. Sad. I'll have to find other places to hang my laundry. He and another friend put a kitchen cabinet on the wall for me. I can hang 'em, but lifting these two onto cleats is way beyond my balance. Remember, I have to stand on the counter, press my head against the ceiling and screw things in. Lifting over a cleat and not falling off the counter backwards is something I don't want to attempt. But, getting this on the wall frees up a bunch of space. I can load it full of crap, then make doors. While he's working, I've put 4 handles on cabinets in my MBR. Got about 30 to go. I primed the two shelves for the cleat cabinets. They're an odd shape, W3624s. Custom, of course, from H4H and S.O.L.I.D. 3/4" maple. Minus shelves, so I cut those out of 3/4" MDF and will probably paint them a coral BM color I love. I've remudded the chewed up MBR wall. I've sanded and mudded yet again. I've gotten rid of 4 medium sized boxes of lighting materials, and a box of thrift store drawers I bought for their hardware and Blum release switches still attached. $2.00 a drawer box. Yeah man! I emptied the DW. Like to load it, hate to unload it. This was probably the greatest accomplishment of the day. Did a load of laundry/uniforms and got them into the dryer. Changed the cat litter. They're all happy with me. Arranged the MBR furniture and will bring the cabinets still in the kitchen back, since to paint I took a bunch down. I'm making room all over the place. I'll tell you. Lethargy, thy name is Christine. I hate this heat and incessant sun. This is more than I've accomplished all darned week, and it's only to kill time while someone else is working! Keep up the great work, all! You encourage me. Greenhaven, have a FUN time! Happy 4th, all!