Guardsman 'Elite' Furniture Protection Plan-Yay or Nay
tyjy
13 years ago
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tyjy
13 years agoRelated Discussions
Dupont's new Sorona carpet
Comments (155)Carpetgirl, We have bought a 10 yr old house and are changing all of the flooring before we move in. Our first major challenge is selecting carpet and this thread has been sooo helpful in understanding the options! We are definitely going with SmartStrand and we want the saxony plush. We expect to be a "shoes off" house with no pets but several young grandchildren. Kind of wanting the more formal look of the pile cut but don't want to end up with a fuzzy mess in 5 years, so we are willing to spend a little more on the best quality Smart Strand. We have found the following examples of this style in SmartStrand and are looking for the most dense, highest twist. Each dealer provides different information and it has been really difficult to compare. We have narrowed it down to: Horizon New Sensations and Alexander Smith Kingsley Palace. They have the EXACT colors with different names but the Kingsley Palace carpet appears to have a longer fiber. I don't have the face weight or twist ## to compare. Can you tell me which product is considered to be higher quality..Horizon or Alexander Smith? Not much information about Alexander Smith out there, though lots of great history lessons about the company. (We also looked at Karastan's Enviable and to our untrained eyes and fingers, it did not seem as dense and cushy as these others.) We sure would appreciate any information you have on this..we have reached a brick wall in our research and we need to make a selection this week and move on to paint colors! Arghhhh. Thanks!...See Moregoing to smack DH (rant, but decor-related, I promise)
Comments (28)LOL, Daisy! What a good idea (the bribing, I mean...)! Thank you all for your thoughtful posts. Honestly, though I get irritated about feeling thwarted sometimes, I really value his opinion. Especially when he saves me from making mistakes. Like yesterday, for example. I "eyeballed" the bunk beds, which so many of you know from experience is ALWAYS a mistake. DH went to see them later, with a tape measure... and the bottom bed would have blocked off half of DS's little room. I hate it when he's right, but at the same time, I would have really hated hauling all that furniture home and setting it up, only to find that it either doesn't really fit or takes the whole room over... Hence the title of this post. Feeling very embarrassed for having taken up bandwidth on this... hope the discussion was interesting, at least. And BTDT moms who posted about being glad that they had cheapo pine bunkbeds the kids could, ahem, "personalize" -- thank you for your insights, very useful. TO the other warnings: thanks, you guys, I know you're right, and I know the disadvantages of bunkbeds, and am not looking forward to making that top bunk at all. But right now the kids adore each other and DS2 would actually sleep better at night knowing his wonderful big brother could protect him from the monsters. Sigh. Back to looking! Have a good Friday, all......See MoreIs this kitchen/breakfast room floor plan ok?
Comments (17)" is the breakfast room REALLY too small to eat in? " On the eating area ... check out the picture and the description for Rule #8 ... http://starcraftcustombuilders.com/kitchen.design.rules.htm Basically, Here are dining table clearance rules ... Allow 24" for a seated diner with no obstruction (wall, furniture, counter, etc) behind. Allow 32" from table edge to wall or obstruction for a seated diner with NO TRAFFIC passing behind diner. Allow minimum 36" to allow someone to slide behind / edge past a seated diner when traffic passes behind a seated diner between the table and an obstruction, Or, a minimum 42-44" to allow traffic to walk behind a seated diner. Allow 60" from table edge for a wheelchair to pass behind. To allow for a dining table right next to an island or peninsula with barstools, add approx 18", assuming a fairly modest sized barstool. So ... you would need minimum 42 + 18 = 60" between the edge of the dining table and the counter edge of the island or peninsula to allow traffic to walk in between (not "slide past"). Understand, these are minimums and depend on the size of the furniture, a couple more inches could feel more spacious. We have about 36" (maybe an inch or so more than that, no more than 38" for sure) between the table edge and the wall for a 13 foot long dining table that seats 14 (6 on each side and 1 on each end) and it is fairly comfortable even sliding past to get to the seats in the middle. Our chairs are normal size, not overly large and you don't have to "hug the wall" to get by. Also, be sure to use the measurements from the counter overhang edge (the cabinets may be 24", but have a 1-2" overhang) and know your table measurements. Our table is 40" wide, but tables can vary GREATLY from about 32" wide to about 48" wide. If you are unsure, try to plan for a wider width. These dimensions above are for regular chairs. Banquet seat dimensions would be a little different. On a round table, you can fudge the above numbers a little because the table curves away from you almost immediately. Not so much on an oval table. The curve on an oval is only on the corners, where there will already be plenty of space anyway. One thing that does help you is the doorway opening on 2 sides of the table which makes the traffic passing area feel more generous. There is no wall or obstruction behind the table there. WIDTH NEEDED for dining ... Ideally, you need 24-28" of width for each seated person at a dinner table or for bar seating. 30" would be Very graciously spacious. At a bare minimum, you need about 21" width for bar seating. KNEE SPACE: If putting stools or chairs on perpendicular sides of a table/island/peninsula, be sure the knee space is not shared by 2 seats. For 30" high tables (table height) you need 18" table overhang / knee space For 36" high counters (counter height) you need 15" counter overhang / knee space For 42" high counters (bar height) you need 12" counter overhang / knee space Some people do get by with less overhang at their bar or island. I actually have 18.5" wide for each of my 4 barstools, which are just round so not very large stools (Acme Furniture 07258). I would not do a dining table with personal space this narrow at 18-21", but you can get away with it a little more easily at a bar. We have 15" overhang on the long side of our counter height (36" tall) peninsula. When we are sitting at our peninsula, we normally pull one of the stools around to the end which has an 8" overhang. The 8" counter overhang is not ideal by any means, but it is workable for occasional use. This gives each of the 3 stools on the long side 24.5" wide per person . When it's kids sitting there, the decreased space works ok for them and they all 4 stay side by side with 18.5" each...See MoreFabric Protection Plans
Comments (5)Just a comment about Sunbrella. These fabrics are great as a rule. For the most part they are 100% Solution-Dyed Acrylic. These fabrics have come a long way and have certain benefits such as they are not bothered by sunlight, bleach, wet bathing suits and an added feature pet hair does not seem to stick to them. In my opinion they don't feel quite as nice as more natural fabrics such as 100% cotton or linen or blends of the two. It has also been my experience that a heavy duty 100% cotton twill fabric on a slipcover for example washes more easily. As far as pigmented leather I think you are much better off with a full aniline dyed leather which are dyed all the way through. Pigmented leathers do resist scratches but a pigmented leather when it does scratch really looks scratched and they can be difficult to repair. Pigmented leathers are from the inner layers of the hide as hides are usually shaved into 3 layers as a rule. The inner layers are the weakest layers. The inner layers are sanded, buffed and more or less spray painted with a pigmented leather and we all know what happens with paint it eventually peels. Pigmented leathers are also cold in the winter and hot in the summer as they don't breathe. However everyone has their own opinion and this is just mine and many people will say to buy a pigmented leather in a situation such as you have described.. As far as protection plans I am all in favor of them. If you damaged your sofa and it needed to be replaced you would be very happy to have one of these plans. However in every case the protection plan companies do not cover rental properties. If you do buy one of these plans never tell the protection plan company you have rented your property or it will void your plan. Of course should you decide to buy a plan and rent your home you shouldn't really even be buying a plan as it violates the contract but that it up to you....See More
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