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jrsteven

13 leaky windows need replacing - asking some advice

jrsteven
15 years ago

Hi - I'm currently getting bids for replacing the leaky wooden windows in my home.

And I have a few questions about the project that conversations with installers and Internet searches have not yet resolved.

I'd appreciate any advice and feedback this forum can provide.

We are going for vinyl, and looking at the following window makers and models: Paradigm "Tapestry," Great Lakes "Bayshore," Xact 1550, and Simonton 5050.

Our main goal is to get windows that will protect against drafts and heat/cool-loss (an alley adjacent to our house acts like a wind tunnel), and will cut our energy costs with LowE and argon gas. We have forced central air for heating and cooling, and live in SE Pennsylvania.

Our second goal is to get mid-quality windows that will enhance resale of our house, and yet not break the bank. We plan to spend either 2.5 more years in our house, or up to 7 years (depends on job).

Our third goal is to make a smart investment. We live in an "improving" city neighborhood, surrounded on both sides by unkempt rental properties -although nice houses are very nearby. We don't want to put too much lipstick on this pig, as the saying goes, if we aren't going to gain back our window investment at resale.

Here are the questions I have - and I'd really appreciate some expert advice on the route we should take:

1-Are Paradigm Tapestry windows too top-of-the-line for our goals? Do the other windows offer similar energy-saving benefits at a reduced cost? Is the warranty the thing that makes Paradigm Tapestry's better? Our quote for the Tapestry is about $500/window, while the others (BayShore, Simonton 5050) are closer to $300-400/window.

2-How important is aluminum capping to protecting against heat/cool loss? We live in an historic house, and could un-cap the wood exterior of the street-facing windows which don't get strong drafts. We plan to cap the side and back windows. I don't mind re-painting the street-facing window exteriors if we don't lose too much insulation benefit by not capping.

3-We like the BayShore model, but they have a block and tackle (kevlar cord) balance, while all the others have constant force steel coil. The sales reps are trying to spin me both ways - and my reading of the forum suggests that both modern systems are equal. Can I ignore the balance system differences in making my decision?

4-Does it make sense to fill the old lead weight block and tackle voids with insulation before the new windows are installed? I've heard arguments both for and against this method from installers.

Thank you for reading this, and I look forward to your advice.

Regards,

Jrsteven in PA

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