Katie~ I had emailed my DD asking about where she bought her canistersÂjust relooked at her email and see that she said "got them at Target ~they have nice similar ones that match the soap dispenser I got you at Williams Sonoma" She is referring to these canisters at WS~ Looks like Target has WS type in stock nowÂthey are not on their web site, probably a new item in storesÂmight be worth a trip. ALSO ~ I am in OrleansÂgo to Nauset beach very day in summer Here is a link that might be useful: W S cannisters

A while ago my mom stripped the mirrored tiles off her hallway wall - really dirty yellow oil-based(?) gloss paint from the 70's. I primed the ripped paper with Kilz and then skimmed with pre-mixed joint compound. I really didn't want to sand (lead?) so planned on skimming the entire hall (it's only 10ft long or so by 7'6" or 7'9" high, the other walls have lots of doors). Now I'm thinking I really don't want to skim around doors, though I think I'll have to skim the blank wall just to feather out all the patches. So, what should I do and in what order? Skim over the old dirty wall on Sat, let her handyman paint the ceiling Monday (she doesn't want him painting the walls "since he's not a painter", though why she's hiring him to paint kitchen/FR/hallway ceilings I don't know)? Wash the other walls with TSP substitute or DW detergent powder to degloss, then prime and paitn all the walls after the ceilings are done? Or should I try to clean the bare wall before skimming (afraid of getting patches wet)? Or do I spot-prime the patches, then clean the wall - by then, will it be deglossed so I can prime over it? BTW, we still have some adhesive from some kind of tape stuck to the wall, so I was thinking skimming was the way to go - I tried scraping and this stuff is not coming off. I used Kilz to prime the bare paper from the ripped drywall before I patched. She only has a quart, I don't think it'll do the whole hallway, so what should we buy a gallon of? I was telling her about Aura but 1) I don't know if it'll stick to the gloss paint even if I try to degloss it by washing with DW powder 2) would it be less $$ to buy a separate primer to go over with Regal (hopefully I can talk her into Matte or Eggshell not semigloss or gloss) if I end up skimcoating? How many coats of primer over joint compound if I skim? I'm hoping for 1 coat of light green paint over white or green-tinted primer. I'm not looking forward to doing this, wish she'd had one of my brothers do it when they were visiting last year, or hire someone (she's hiring a painter to do trim and interior doors later this year, don't know why she's have "nonpainter" do ceilings now). But I didn't think it was a good idea to have skimmed wall when grandkids came to visit next month - I think we should at least get primer on before then (but after ceilings are painted). Would it be best to paint (only have a couple of weeks to let it cure b4 visit) or just prime (and then touchup and spot prime again b4 painting if needed) before the visit? Any/all help greatly appreciated!

Here's what I think would work best (though I've never tried it): Rough up the glaze surface with tough sandpaper (check at paint or hardware store for suggestions, regular sandpaper isn't going to work on glaze). Prime the pot with outdoor primer. Paint with exterior house paint. Or you might consider selling the pot and buying one you like better.

Hello! This is my first time posting, and I would really appreciate some guidance/inspiration on what to do with the remainder of our kitchen. We recently bought a 70's brick ranch as a flip--we might stay, but we're also looking into selling it in 3-5 years. What I'm getting hung up on is that our shaker style cabinets feel simple/modern, while the granite feels more rustic, and so I'm feeling stuck on where to go with backsplash. We like an earthy inspired feel but not too rustic. That said my boyfriend's pick is 110% the Picasso trav, his second pick was ceramic beveled. What I'd like help with: Style of backsplash: plain subway, beveled, crackle, tumbled? We would like to be under $10/sqft. Should we keep the stainless backsplash? I know it's easier to clean, but what do people think looks best or most appealing to buyers? Are behind the range tile accents now dated? Would you put shelves on either side of the window? Should that area be left open? Inspiration for lighting over the island. We're doing can lights throughout kitchen and dining room. We'd like to eventually swap the cab hardware to oil rubbed bronze, something with clean, square lines. All other lighting, fixtures, hardware in open area are ORB. I'm open to any design advice in general! Please excuse our mess as we are still renovating, but here are some photos. The floors are dark brown oak. The kitchen: Close up of ceramic cream beveled, Essenze Greige, Essenze Bianco, Rixi Noce (which is too dark). The last 3 are crackle although the photo doesn't show it well: Picasso, and a honed trav subway: Poitiers, ignore the molding style it's just for color: The photo that made me interested in glass bevel subway, which is surprisingly hard to find in beige/cream!: https://st.hzcdn.com/simgs/b5e29c6a03d5ef78_8-9406/home-design.jpg Better view of island w/ dining room in background. The fixture in the dining room is from Kichler's Barrington collection.