My son 6yo wants wants wants the BOMBAY KIDS loft bed but I can't imagine spending nearly 1K on anything that can't carry him into college and beyond. He has the LOUVERED bed (also by Bombay) which I bought on clearance for 150$ (and still regretted every pennies!). Some furniture develops 'patina' with use, these things just look bad when it's scratched. Especially on the chestnut finish, every scratches and ding make the bed look really shabby!! Recently I went to the showroom and just by checking the quality of the floor's model, I know these furnitures won't stand the test of time. The desk and dresser on the floor are already falling apart!!! I'm planning to replace his bombay's bed with a better quality solid wood one. Any suggestion??

Hard to say for sure without pictures, but I vote for Option #1. It would be good to have a solid wall opposite the desk area so there is no glare coming from the window. Also, you can hang up some sort of bulletin board and/or under-cabinet type lighting to illuminate the space in the evenings. if your concern with option #1 is the closet door clearance, you can switch that out to either bifold doors, no door or even hang a curtain.

I had a loft in grad school. It was not very high, and I used the space under it for storage. I did not "go under" except on those occasions that I needed to access the less used items. The accessible side (it was a twin in a corner) had a chest of drawers and a rod for hanging clothes. (The closet in my room was tiny by any standards in the last 80 years.) To get to the infrequently used stuff, I had to compress the hanging clothes and 'crawl' behind (a la The Lion, The Witch, and The Wardrobe.) It sounds like you might n�ed to have yours a bit lower. Depending on your layout, putting your dresser under one side and office storage or side desk on the other, might free up some space. Some pictures, dimensions, and how you use your office space would help me (and probably others) give you feedback.

I don't have time at the moment to discuss all the issues here, but our daughter slept on an elevated platform bed till she was ten and the platform did play duty for a while after that. Ours was attached to the wall on three sides, but the supports were only 2x4 and they were ample (over drywall), attached with #12 screws perhaps 3 inches, 3 and a half inches, long. I am not sure there is an advantage to using 2x6s because it's a shear force that's involved. When I took the whole thing down after 12-14 years, there had been no shifting of those boards. We had a plywood platform with the front supported with yet another 2x4 across. This was screwed into the ends of the wall 2x4s if I recall correctly. Total length was 8 and a half feet, and it required a post to avoid sagging (at least to avoid creaking, and it's an old rickety house - didn't want to stress it too much). Screwing the plywood to the wall supports is actually what holds the bed to the wall, I think. There is your force downward, and your force outward. The problem was never with children up there sleeping. It was when three friends came over, all heavier than my own kids, and all decided to go up there, boisterously. Your right angle portion is a bit challenging. Weight considerations aside, I foresee many heads (especially adult heads) being bumped on that protruding corner, maybe with corresponding shin bumps below. Me, I'd put a post there just to avoid the risk to my head when I'm making the beds. Another thing to realize is that your front edge support on the long portion can go all the way across; it need not end at the corner. This may give you another construction option. Your foot boards on the ladder look narrow, ouch. Plus, a slanted ladder may be better. So maybe separate the functions of support post and ladder. KarinL